1095 backspring

Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,624
What temp would I used to bring a hardened piece of 1095 to spring temper ?
Making a slipjoint , trying to draw it back to blue with a torch and I keep missing it !

Hoping there is some temp I can use to make it "springy".

Appreciate any suggestions.
 
If you're simply looking for the temp that corresponds with a "blue" oxide formation I believe the temperature you're looking for is right at about 572 F (or 300 C). You may need to adjust that (small increments) to get your spring to flex just the way you want but that should get you a starting point.

As a side note make sure your part is dead clean or it will affect the oxide formation and give a faulty "color".
 
It's not 'springy' you are looking for .It's a point where the fatigue strength is high .Fatigue strength is greatly affected by surface condition so make sure it's very smooth -no scratches !!
 
thanks for the info. Was too darn hot in the shop today to attempt anything involving more heat :)

Will be back at it late nights this week , where I am determined to make this thing work and finish it .
 
I have had very good luck by submergeing the spring in pure lead just as it fully melts, holding it under, then killing the heat source. Keep it submerged and allow the lead to cool back and harden. Then melt the lead, the spring will float to the surface, and is done. Lead melts at 620o, to 625o, if I remember correctly. It may be best to repeat this two, or three times.
 
Ya'll mostly already know this, but I'll just point it out for redundancy's sake. "Stiffness" is simply a function of sectional modulus and the modulus of elasticity of a material (which, for steel, is constant, just under 30000 KSI irregardless of hardness or alloy) so ain't no special temper gonna make nothing more flexible, just move the yield point is all. Or to be more concise, the flexibility of a spring is dictated by its thickness, not its hardness. But ya'll already knew that...
 
Back
Top