1095 for stock removal blade making?

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

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Dec 5, 2013
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I understand that 1095 is primarily a forging steel but, it is cheap and I don't want to spend a lot of money on steel for my first couple (dozen) starter blades. Is there any problem with using it for stock removal? Is there anyone out there that I can send it to for hardening? I know Texas Knifemakers Supply will only do air hardening steels.

Bob
 
1095 is a great steel for stock removal. No problem at all. As far as heat treating, Peter's heat treat service is highly recommended.
 
Nicholson files have always been made with 1095 AFAIK .So many have made knives from those files.If you use a file for your material is should be annealed first. 1200 F for 2-3 hours should do.
 
Companies like Ontario and Ka-Bar make about a zillion blades a year out of 1095 via stock removal :)
 
Ok, thanks. Next question; I see there are basically two different states available in 1095. CRA (cold rolled annealed) and HR (hot rolled-not annealed). Will it matter much to me for stock removal blade making which I use? Will it affect the heat treatment process?

Bob
 
I would just get it from ALdo's steel and not worry about it. If Aldo doesnt have it then Kelly Couples has it I am pretty sure.

I dont like to bash places but I would avoid the Admirals 1095, there 1075 although not hamon forming will make a great blade but the 1095 I got sounded like a ping a thon when I quenched it in parks 50. There were more cracks in it then I have ever scene even water quenching steel so I dont know what was up with it but I wont order any more from them.
 
quint said:
I would just get it from ALdo's steel and not worry about it. If Aldo doesnt have it then Kelly Couples has it I am pretty sure.

I dont like to bash places but I would avoid the Admirals 1095, there 1075 although not hamon forming will make a great blade but the 1095 I got sounded like a ping a thon when I quenched it in parks 50. There were more cracks in it then I have ever scene even water quenching steel so I dont know what was up with it but I wont order any more from them.
Click to expand...

+1

I use a lot of 1095 for both stock removal and forging. Aldo's is known chemistry and is predictable... every single time. I used to get it from some of the other supply houses, Texas Knifemakers, Jantz... I love Jantz for a lot of things, and they have done me right more than once, but steel... get it from Aldo. I had one bar from Jantz perform smoothly, correctly, quench fine in warm water (my preferred for 1095), and then had a second bar, shipped the same time, same finished grind, that was also a ping and crack a thon... You could have combed your hair with the quenched edge.

Cheers! 1095 is the best of the 10xx steels IMHO performance wise, but it is finicky about HT. You must have temperature control and your quenchant of choice very close at hand to get repeatable and predictable results.
 
I get my 1095 from Aldo, and I am a stock removal maker. Search for "New Jersey Steel Baron" on Google.

1095 is reportedly a pain in the ass to heat treat, so I just send everything I have to Peters. $100 bucks will get up to 20 blades heat treated, so have a batch ready to go. You may be able to find an individual maker on here. I understand that Darrin Sanders no longer heat treats for people.

If you don't get it from Aldo, get your steel in the annealed state. Its very soft to grind on, and a sharp 60 grit belt will get your bevels and profiles cut, and holes drilled very nicely, and without alot of effort.
 
For my first knifemaking steel purchase, I ended up ordering 9' of 1084 from USA Knife Makers Supply. I would have ordered from Aldo on everybody's advice but, he was completely out of 1/4" which is what I want to use. I appreciate the heads up on Admiral; I certainly would have purchased from them based on price.

Bob
 
CRA -the steel is cold rolled for better domensions.
There have been cases where the steel is not annealed properly [that's why it's best to buy Aldo's] and has a pearlite microstructure . You'll know if it's hard to cut or drill .Just anneal for a few hours at 1200 F and that will fix it.
 
I use Aldo's and Peter's HT exclusively. Both highly regarded and professionals.
 
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