1095 quinch oil ?? trans oil ok

M

metalmole

Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
73
Hi, new here been reading quite abit...ready to heat treat my first carbon steel knife...1095, would atf trans fluid be ok, I have used it on 01 before on small parts.....???
 
Please read the stickies, especially Kevin Cashen's "working with the 3 steel types" particularly the section on hypereuctechtoid steel, your question is answered there. Briefly stated, with transmission fluid you will get mostly pearlite (and extremely toxic fumes and flareup) your knives will be able to skate a file off of the pearlite yet will be too soft to hold an edge for any real cutting. do not use transmission fluid to quench anything

-Page
 
I wish everybody would get into the habit of reading MSDS sheets for any and all chemicals they plan on using in their shop.... especially when you may end up inhaling, ingesting, or getting said product into clothes or on your skin.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
I wish everybody would get into the habit of reading MSDS sheets for any and all chemicals they plan on using in their shop.... especially when you may end up inhaling, ingesting, or getting said product into clothes or on your skin.
Click to expand...

Could you please elaborate on that, how it pertains to the particular chemicals mentioned here? I've thus far only used Canola but am working on getting a pail of P50 or HQK, and any health concerns would be nice to know about (aside from proper ventilation).
 
Well I can't say I remember the last time I ingested any kind of oils I have worked with in the last 30 years, but I will give it a good think. I am very well aware of MSDS warnings and also have a common sense thing going for me that has kept me out of harms way.....


OK I understand about the 1095 steel needing to cool very fast when quinching, just didnt know if I could wing it with something else. So how would one make up some water/brime quinch medium or would the canola oil be the only thing to use in a pinch ?, and thanks for the help....
 
Thanks for the correction Stacy, care to give some advise on how is the best way to QUENCH 1095 without the specialty oils......
 
Without an engineered oil you have two choices for 1095.

One is to use a brine quench - one pound of rock salt in 5-6 quarts of water. Heat the water to 100-120F.

The other is to used canola at 100-120F.
 
Thanks Stacy, I guess Im off to WalMart to get some canola oil, just trying to get a blade done tonight for a friend. I have heat treated 440c with excellent results using the air quench between aluminum stock method...I guess I will order some 1084 if I do more carbon blades.........
 
Now, for the serious answer. Listen to Stacy. If you don't have access to something like Parks 50, use the Canola oil. The brine quench will work, too. Just might be a bit more exciting(read, possible cracked blades).
 
Ode To The Quinch

When I'm in the shop and fixin' to quinch,
It's not done with oil but rather a pinch.
With my guts a rumblin' and legs held tight,
I stand there, getting my bevels just right.
It's not as easy as you may think
I let out a squeaker and boy, does it stink.
Quinching, my friend, is a bit of an art,
If you hold it too long, it ends in a shart.

I'm not trying to center you out, metalmole. My tomfoolery is quite indiscriminate. I am just feeling creative.:thumbup:

Canola is the way to go aside from engineered quenchant. Good thinking on searching out some 1084. It will serve you better than 1095.

Welcome to the forum!!!

Rick
 
Rick Marchand said:
Ode To The Quinch

When I'm in the shop and fixin' to quinch,
It's not done with oil but rather a pinch.
With my guts a rumblin' and legs held tight,
I stand there, getting my bevels just right.
It's not as easy as you may think
I let out a squeaker and boy, does it stink.
Quinching, my friend, is a bit of an art,
If you hold it too long, it ends in a shart.

I'm not trying to center you out, metalmole. My tomfoolery is quite indiscriminate. I am just feeling creative.:thumbup:

Canola is the way to go aside from engineered quenchant. Good thinking on searching out some 1084. It will serve you better than 1095.

Welcome to the forum!!!

Rick
Click to expand...

Had me laughing out loud after reading that:D
 
mgysgthath said:
Could you please elaborate on that, how it pertains to the particular chemicals mentioned here? I've thus far only used Canola but am working on getting a pail of P50 or HQK, and any health concerns would be nice to know about (aside from proper ventilation).
Click to expand...

MSD Sheets should pertain to ANY chemical used in your shop. It's just a good habit. As for ATF, not all are created exactly equal, but a couple MSDSs I've read describe harmful vapors and avoiding inhalation. As for p50 and HQK, they have MSDSs that should be readily available via a quick Google search.
 
metalmole said:
Well I can't say I remember the last time I ingested any kind of oils I have worked with in the last 30 years, but I will give it a good think. I am very well aware of MSDS warnings and also have a common sense thing going for me that has kept me out of harms way.....
Click to expand...

I probably could have left "ingestion" off the list, but you'd be surprised at how many people accidentally ingest toxic chemicals. Sometimes it's as simple as eating food without washing your hands after handling a chemical or any other product that might seep into the skin.

And common sense isn't so common... you'd be surprised what I see on an almost daily basis working in a steel mill and watching 60 year old men with 40 years of experience do something that my 3 year old would know better about.
Not that it's any reflection on you, as I don't know you. I just wouldn't recommend using ATF to quench knife blades when there are far better (and safter) alternatives.
 
Rick Marchand said:
Ode To The Quinch

When I'm in the shop and fixin' to quinch,
It's not done with oil but rather a pinch.
With my guts a rumblin' and legs held tight,
I stand there, getting my bevels just right.
It's not as easy as you may think
I let out a squeaker and boy, does it stink.
Quinching, my friend, is a bit of an art,
If you hold it too long, it ends in a shart.

I'm not trying to center you out, metalmole. My tomfoolery is quite indiscriminate. I am just feeling creative.:thumbup:

Canola is the way to go aside from engineered quenchant. Good thinking on searching out some 1084. It will serve you better than 1095.

Welcome to the forum!!!

Rick
Click to expand...

Best post of the day!

Thank you sir.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
MSD Sheets should pertain to ANY chemical used in your shop. It's just a good habit. As for ATF, not all are created exactly equal, but a couple MSDSs I've read describe harmful vapors and avoiding inhalation. As for p50 and HQK, they have MSDSs that should be readily available via a quick Google search.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's what I thought you meant but wasn't sure.

Also, lol @ Rick's creativeness :)
 
Funny how often this comes up. Also funny that it's not limited to bladesmithing.

I am doing a little brewing/fermenting of late, and all the same stuff happens. Companies go to great lengths to isolate and produce the proper yeast strains for different types of alcohols. They provide a bunch of free information about which yeast to use for what to get the best results. And, without fail, there are many who say stuff like "Well my old grandpappy never used nothin but bread yeast and we still go good and drunk off his stuff." Which is the equivalent of saying "Well I just stuck it in bacon grease and diesel and it got so hard a file skated over it."

Now I know there are a lot of steps in between dedicated quenching oils and bacon grease, and that canola oil is one them. I also know there is no one right answer. In the end, it really just comes down to what your goals are and how far you want to take things. That said, (almost) no one would use canola oil to lubricate their car's engine, nor would they use ATF in their deep fryers. Oils do have specific applications.
 
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