1095 steel and rust

I'd imagine CLP would work with regular maintenance, I use smith's knife oil and that does fine while sharpening. In the field I use a silicone soaked gun rag. I Stripped my 1050 HC AG Russel last night and after about 4 layers of mustard I have a beautiful even dark gray patina covering the blade. I have had a Kabar 7 inch fighter for a long time and it still has yet to show any signs of rust, though the 1050 AG Russel blade I have to maintain on a daily basis to keep the rust at bay.
 
Just for good measure, I oil up my carbon steel blades every time I unsheath them and do anything with them. This might be overdoing it, but I don't think I can overdo it if I'm keeping my blades in working order. I find that a silicone gun cloth works fine for me. Occasionally I'll wipe some Rem Oil on the exposed steel too. Cheers

M.E.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll make sure an put it to use taking care of my new (To Me) RAT 4.
 
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I like to use mineral oil on knives I plan to use to cut food with. It seems to work pretty good.
 
BigE said:
I've honed off that rust a few times on the edge of my RC-3. It mainly comes from sweat. I wipe off the knife entirely with WD-40 every now and then, disassembling the scales.
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And this works to get rust off? What do you scrub it with?
 
I live in southeast Missouri where the humidity is normally 85 to 90% most of the summer. After using one of my knives I wash it down and renew the lubricant. I was taught by my grandfather (who gave me my first knife when I was 4) that my knife, my rifle, my shotgun, etc. were tools and as such were to be taken care of. You take care of your tools and when you need them...they will take care of you.
 
I'm getting a few rust specks on the machination on the edge of my blade (the silver part) Can I scrub this with WD-40 to get it out? I'm looking for an under-the-sink remedy before I order some oil
 
Personally, I hate oily blades. Tuf-Cloth works nicely, but I prefer not to have those kind of chemicals ending up in cut food.

An easy solution is a block 100% pure bee's wax. Pull your knife's edge through it, done. Excellent rust protection cheap and of course non-toxic.

-Connor
 
Connor, I'm going to have to try that with the bee's wax. Thanks for the suggestion. It seems like it would be easy to keep a small block in the bag for a quick pull through.
 
I'm a big fan of mineral oil. All my knives are 'naked' and I don't have any rust issues as long as I give it a good coating now and then. I've been using/handling my Gossman PSK (O1) for a while since I oiled and still haven't had rust issues.
 
Connor said:
Personally, I hate oily blades. Tuf-Cloth works nicely, but I prefer not to have those kind of chemicals ending up in cut food.

An easy solution is a block 100% pure bee's wax. Pull your knife's edge through it, done. Excellent rust protection cheap and of course non-toxic.
Click to expand...

I might have to try that some time, thanks for the idea
 
I use whatever oil I use to clean my guns. You don't need much oil on it. Just enough to coat the blade and wipe off. works for me.
 
I´ve just removed G10 scales from my RC3 orange and what do I see? Small rusty spot on tang. It´looks like some stamp or something because it is pretty symetric.
http://picasaweb.google.cz/johnnyjak/Noze?authkey=Gv1sRgCKy69d_h7JzlOQ#5386786730912071378
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i also use mineral oil and ballistol. Ballistol smells but it seems to work great.You can use it on leather, wood and steel. It's still used by European hunters.
An interesting note It was widely used as a "wonderoil" during WWI by german troops. Adolf Hitler seemed to have overdosed on the stuff once to quench intestinal pains and gas.
 
I like using Camellia oil generally, but my Izula is fine without anything. It did get a patina on the edge from some food cutting.
 
Around here we use coconut oil on the blades, perfect to prevent from rust and you dont need to worry before you start cutting food with it.
 
I used to use light grade oils like WD-40 on my blued firearms like my 1911.but carried against the skin in warm weather i sweat on my gun and i get rust if i forget to wipe it down daily. Since i started using breakfree CLP the problem has gone away..thats what i use on my high carbon steel knives.
 
I have a custom made patch knife made with 1095. It came with a natural patina.
I used it a lot and had a lot of scratches and a gun store owner friend of mine buffed it out. It is shinny now but I have noticed now without the natural patina a small amout of rust started. So I scraped it off and have been using mineral oil on the blade.

The patina is now coming back naturally and I don't have the rust issue.
The knife maker also told me not to store it in the sheath all the time as this also leads to rust.

The sheath is made of veg. tanned leather, he said that acid tanned leather leads to rusting as well.
 
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