1095 steel heat treatment?

wolf5391

wolf5391

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Sep 23, 2010
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Like the title says, educate me on the heat treatment process of 1095.


I'm currently working with 1080 steel. Is the heat treat similar to 1080 or do I have to hold the temperature and bake for a certain period of time?


any info is much appreciated.
 
It's a little more complicated than 1080 because you have more/excess carbon that has to be dealt with. If the heat treatment is botched, you can have very soft steel(low to mid 30's in hardness) yet is still brittle. Time and temperature control are both key. You need enough temperature control over a 5 to 7 minute period (I'd actually go 10 if I had an oven or something) to ensure that you can put the extra carbon where you want it. Multiple quenches could also be helpful if you can't hold temperature for that long. You can put the carbon where you need it incrementally. However, be aware that every time you quench, you have the opportunity for mistakes as well. Practice and patience will solve that. Is there a reason to switch from 1080 to 1095, or is it something you just want to try? In other words, is there a problem with 1080 that you think 1095 will solve?

I cannot recommend a google search for heat treating steel for those who are just beginning. There is A LOT of information out there, and it may be over their heads, or just wrong, and they won't be able to tell the difference. Searching Shoptalk will get much closer.
 
me2 said:
It's a little more complicated than 1080 because you have more/excess carbon that has to be dealt with. If the heat treatment is botched, you can have very soft steel(low to mid 30's in hardness) yet is still brittle. Time and temperature control are both key. You need enough temperature control over a 5 to 7 minute period (I'd actually go 10 if I had an oven or something) to ensure that you can put the extra carbon where you want it. Multiple quenches could also be helpful if you can't hold temperature for that long. You can put the carbon where you need it incrementally. However, be aware that every time you quench, you have the opportunity for mistakes as well. Practice and patience will solve that. Is there a reason to switch from 1080 to 1095, or is it something you just want to try? In other words, is there a problem with 1080 that you think 1095 will solve?

I cannot recommend a google search for heat treating steel for those who are just beginning. There is A LOT of information out there, and it may be over their heads, or just wrong, and they won't be able to tell the difference. Searching Shoptalk will get much closer.
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thanks for the reply,

I actually love the heat treat I do on my 1080 and wanted to try damascus.

Problem was finding a reputable dealer who I could source for 1080 damascus. I have found 1095 damascus that is very nice from a guy in PA but I don't have the means of heat treating it right(baking it for a period of ten minutes) because my forge maintains welding temps.

Do you know of anyone who makes 1080/1084 damascus? That was probably the better question to have asked in the first place :D
 
1080 and 1084 are essentially the same steel. I doubt there'd be enough difference to provide the contrast people look for, even though the 2 would be from different manufacturers. Like I said, you could try multiple quenches. Many makers use that method, and while I don't agree with some that it's superior, it will work. I'd try on some 1095 first if it were me. It's much cheaper to figure out the procedure with that.
 
This 1095 damascus from the guy in PA; what else is in it? My guess is, some kind of nickel saw steel like 15N20. This is what you want, if you the normal high contrast look of damascus. Same nickel saw steel would work well with your 1080/1084; in fact, that's what most makers are using.
 
Danbo said:
This 1095 damascus from the guy in PA; what else is in it? My guess is, some kind of nickel saw steel like 15N20. This is what you want, if you the normal high contrast look of damascus. Same nickel saw steel would work well with your 1080/1084; in fact, that's what most makers are using.
Click to expand...

1095/15n20, and do you know of anyone who supplies 1080 damascus. I would make my own but hate what the flux does to the forge, not to mention the fact that I have limited experience with making my own.
 
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