1095 steel question

Oh, I must have been thinking of the old ones made by Camillus. They were 0176 or 50100 or some alloy steel.
 
milani74 said:
Through my limited experiences, I whole heartedly agree. I have used and own both the Ka Bar Beckers and Rat Cutlery's RC line. I also own a Knives of Alaska D2 Bush knife that is very difficult to sharpen due to not owning any diamond sharpeners ( I own the Spyderco Sharpmaker) and easily takes twice as long to sharpen and doesnt seem to be as sharp when I am done. I am really not willing to plunge down another 40-60 dollars for an additional diamond sharpener. I will simply buy easily sharpened steel. 1095 incidentally is also cheaper on average than D2.
That said, I think the most important factor is the heat treat. D2 and 1095 can not really be compared as a metal. Rather you must compare individual companies/models.
RC and Ka Bar do their steels' heat treat VERY well.
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You don't have to have diamonds. Use wet/dry sandpaper on a mouse pad.
Or load up a leather strop with your choice of abrasive.

Try Dozier's D2. It will change your mind.
 
Les said:
You don't have to have diamonds. Use wet/dry sandpaper on a mouse pad.
Or load up a leather strop with your choice of abrasive.

Try Dozier's D2. It will change your mind.
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1dXGrC0wMDA2_2XJEzU2ucEJ2.jpg
 
Les said:
You don't have to have diamonds. Use wet/dry sandpaper on a mouse pad.
Or load up a leather strop with your choice of abrasive.

Try Dozier's D2. It will change your mind.
Click to expand...

I dont feel I have to use a diamond sharpener, but it certainly is much faster when you are dealing with D2. Difficulty = a ton of time to sharpen. For me, 1095 sharpens at least twice as fast as D2. But again, I have not owned many D2 blades.
I also do not want to convex my edges. I use a leather strop and find I can get a very sharp shaving edge with it and some green compound.

As far as the Dosier, I bet it is a splendid blade. But its not for me. D2's edge retention is probably slightly better, but at some point you gotta resharpen any blade. When that happens, I want to use my cheaper, less prone to chip 1095 that I know if I break because I was abusing it, will get replaced no questions asked.
 
Jake Bauer said:
the Crovan adds more overall blade strength than basic 1095, but it looses a bit of edge retention over basic 1095. (very hard to notice though). I believe that 1095 comes best when it's got RAT Cutlery or KABAR on the blade.
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That difference is more dependent on the heat treat than the alloy. 1095 Cro-Van, if heat treated to the same hardness as 1095, should have improved performance in edge retention as well as toughness.

me2 said:
Oh, I must have been thinking of the old ones made by Camillus. They were 0176 or 50100 or some alloy steel.
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The Camillus Beckers were made of 0170-6C, which was the Camillus name for the alloy that Cold Steel called Carbon V (Camillus, of course, made all the Cold Steel Carbon V knives.) I found an analysis of Carbon V that Wayne Goddard had had performed and published in his book, The Wonder of Knifemaking (page 30). According to that analysis, Carbon V, or 0170-6C, was a 1095 alloy, with traces of Chromium and Vanadium. But Camillus heat treated their blades to a higher hardness than Ka-Bar does.
 
guoxin said:
1dXGrC0wMDA2_2XJEzU2ucEJ2.jpg
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I'll destroy ANY blade you send me. They are all tools when used incorrectly will be subject to damage.
Caveat....I'll not reimburse you for a replacement if you want to participate in the test.
 
milani74 said:
As far as the Dosier, I bet it is a splendid blade. But its not for me. D2's edge retention is probably slightly better, but at some point you gotta resharpen any blade. When that happens, I want to use my cheaper, less prone to chip 1095 that I know if I break because I was abusing it, will get replaced no questions asked.
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Dozier D2 is slightly better? HA!:D

If one of your biggest requirements is having a 100% warranty coverage due to abuse, I can offer nothing more.
 
Les said:
Dozier D2 is slightly better? HA!:D

If one of your biggest requirements is having a 100% warranty coverage due to abuse, I can offer nothing more.
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I don’t think that anyone is going to argue that Dozier D2 is in a league of its own. On the other hand so is the RAT warranty. They both are incredibly good at what they do. He was just saying that a blade like the RC-3 is more…attainable.
 
J.Mattson said:
I don’t think that anyone is going to argue that Dozier D2 is in a league of its own. On the other hand so is the RAT warranty. They both are incredibly good at what they do. He was just saying that a blade like the RC-3 is more…attainable.
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No, he was making blanket statements without ever owning a Dozier, using a Dozier, sharpening and maintaining a Dozier, or dealing with the Dozier family regarding a damaged blade.

Maintaining D2 is easy. I'd choose it over any other where extended edge retention might be necessary. I have had Dozier blades go a full winter of heavy use and hunting without even needing a touchup.
 
Gotta chime in here. I make most of my blades from D-2 and the facts are that comparing D-2 and 1095 is apples and oranges. D-2 is far superior if HEAT TREATED PROPERLY. As for the cracking during winter time use that's ridiculous considering that most makers use a cryogenic temper where the blade is brought down to -100 degrees.If that don't crack it then skinning deer in the North American winter sure as hell won't. I make everything from patch knives to a 8" blade chute knife that will hack through 2x4's all day and the edge won't roll chip or crack. It's all about heat treat and proper edge angle for the job. And next to Robert W. Loveless, Bob Dozier is the man.
 
Les said:
No, he was making blanket statements without ever owning a Dozier, using a Dozier, sharpening and maintaining a Dozier, or dealing with the Dozier family regarding a damaged blade..
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Calm down. If you look and actually read both of my posts I did in fact cover this. And I am not making blanket statements about Dozier blades and is completly untrue. I never did claim to use or have knowledge of owning a Dozier and neither was it a pivotal point of my argument.

Les said:
Maintaining D2 is easy. I'd choose it over any other where extended edge retention might be necessary. I have had Dozier blades go a full winter of heavy use and hunting without even needing a touchup.
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I am happy that you enjoy using your knife and it fits your needs. However the the orginal OP stated that he wanted input on 1095 steel.
 
rc 57 is pretty soft for 1095...

1095 is WAY tougher than D2 at same hardness, assuming correct heat treats

1095 takes finer edge, easier to sharpen without diamonds

D2 is tough enough for most people but i'm a bit crazy so I sharpen it to 35degrees or more total, but would take 1095 to 25 or less
 
milani74 said:
Calm down. If you look and actually read both of my posts I did in fact cover this. And I am not making blanket statements about Dozier blades and is completly untrue. I never did claim to use or have knowledge of owning a Dozier and neither was it a pivotal point of my argument.



I am happy that you enjoy using your knife and it fits your needs. However the the orginal OP stated that he wanted input on 1095 steel.
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Use what makes you happy.
 
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The pic has floated around the internet and forums for a while.
It is not hard to damage ANY knife, then take a picture of it.

Thin hollow ground blades are cutters, not pry bars.
 
kinda mean to post that then... dozier are ground fairly thin and they are quite hard
 
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