1095 vs. 1084

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Dec 4, 2009
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So I was recently reading up on the HT process of 1095 steel as I am nearing this step on my project and I saw one website that stated that 1095 was difficult to heat treat and 1084 is a better alternative to 1095. However, another source told me that 1095 was a good beginner steel. :confused: I'm confused as to which to believe. So my question is what is the difference between 1095 and 1084? Are any advantages/disadvantages to using either one?
 
For a variety of reasons, I think you'll get advised that 1084 is easier to treat, but it depends on what equipment you have. If you have an oven, I'd think one is as easy as the other. If you're using a torch or forge, most here will say 1084. I've hardened 1095 with a torch successfully...once. I warped, overheated, cracked, and underhardened 1095 blades before and since that success.
 
1084 responds better to "bring to non magnetic and quench in virgin panther pee mixtures.
I've found when forge treating my W1/1095 I slowly heat to 1500ºF I use table salt as a good guestimate...put a line of salt on the blade and heat (pure sodium melts at 1475º but I wait till it's melting fast before pulling and quenching. It puts me right about 1500ºF and gets a good overall hardness. If your clay coating for a hamon, it wont mess that up either so big + on that!

Jason
 
Read the sticky on hypereutectoid steels to see the difficulties in HTing 1095. 1084 is the steel to pick !
 
Jason, pure sodium melts at 208F ( 98C). You probably meant Pure Sodium-Chloride melts at 1475F (800C)
 
Other than .10 carbon, manganese is the big difference between the two. 1084 has around twice as much manganese, this greatly increases hardebability.

Both good steels, but 1084 will be easier to heat treat for the beginner.
 
Steels over .8% carbon have extra carbides that you will need to contend with in order to not have them possibly do some negative things. Once you have the skills experience and knowledge to deal with these carbides they will provide excellent edge holding properties, but before you have the abilities to put them in position to do that they will tend to collect in places that will give you grief. These factors make the temperature window for complete success a narrow one for 1095. 1084 however is in the Goldilocks zone from carbon content- not to much, not too little, but just right! All you need to do is heat it to a little beyond nonmagnetic, quench it and you should be good.

Both 1095 and 1084 are what are known as shallow hardening steels, this means they need a quicker quenching medium than other alloys to reach full hardness. But the only alloying that gives the the ability to harden in any oils instead of water is Mn. 1095 has less manganese than 1084 making it even more time sensitive in the quench. Once in the quench the liquid needs to cool 1084 past 1000F in around .75 seconds, while 1095 is around .5 seconds.

Proper steel selection is one of the most critical skills the modern bladesmith needs to acquire and it is the one that is fairly lacking in our business. There are no bad steels, only poor choices by makers. I have seen many good steels badmouthed because somebody chose an alloy that was wrong for their application, beyond their skill set, or was beyond the capabilities of their equipment.
 
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