1095 with hamon quench Q

[H20MOFO]

I have been wanting to try my hand at this for a while. My 2" by 42" belt and 6" disk combo sander showed up last night.
And I have an 18" x 3/16 x 1.5 piece of 1095 is due tomorrow....could only find a2 locally.
I read the sticky above on 1095....to use a fast oil. Can anyone suggest a fast oil with out breaking the bank?
I am not positive what I am gonna try and grind out...maybe a chopper/camp knife....maybe a big tanto.
What ever it is I want a hamon. Would the heat treat method be different with a hamon??
I have alot of time on my hands at work and have been watching a bunch of Walter Sorrell vids.
He put a hamon on a piece of 1095....then water quenched it for a few seconds.....and if memory serves correct it went from the water into 300* oil.
Would the water quench make a harder edge? Not looking to reinvent the wheel here...just curious why he would water quench it.
Kreg

 

[sharpeknives]

If you water quench be prepared to crack a lot of blades.
I put hamons on most of my blades and 1095 is my steel of choice. I recommend Parks#50 quench oil.
Making a decent Hamon takes practice. Good luck and don't give up.

 

[H20MOFO]

Thanks...I heard a couple of guys talking about parks 50. I have a hunch I cant afford a 5 gal bucket of that right now.
Is there a second best I can get at a grocery store or lowes ect?? I have heard of guys using canaola and peanut oil.

 

[samuraistuart]

3/16" thick 1095 will struggle to harden thoroughly with canola oil. You can do an interrupted quench....quench in brine for about 3 seconds, then into 130° canola oil. You'll get nice hardness from the brine, and as the martensite begins to form, the oil will help prevent dreaded *ping*.