110 lubrication oil question

Snotwad said:
Please allow me to avail myself of the oportunity to tout what has become one of my favorite products. Its called "white lightning" and should be available at most bicycle shops. The product was designed as a solution to the bicycle chain problem, where any lube picked up dirt, which made the situation worse. It is a wax base, white liquid, that dries clear and stays put. There are 2 products actually; one is a cleaner, that is needed only in an extreme situation, and the other is a lube that is applied sparingly, perhaps a drop or two every few months. Key thought: "a little goes a long way".
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i'll have to give this a try
 
Snotwad, thanks for the "white lightning" idea. I will check that out as it could come in handy for other stuff too.

Shecky, what is a galled tang or galled backspring? I simply want to make my 110 glass smooth all the way through. It is smooth for most of the travel but then it seems like the blade catches some friction somewhere along the way.

I have cleaned it and cleaned it wd40ed it then cleaned it again but it's still not as smooth as other 110's I have.
 
Hi, I have mostly used pencil lead (which is graphite). Its dry and doesn't attract dirt.

Vinny
 
Galling is the kind of wear that's induced when the surfaces are rubbing together too vigorously, or the surfaces are roughly finished, or too soft. Or any combination. The result is excessive, accelerated wear, and often a "gritty" feeling. I've had it occur when things like the backspring is roughly finished, or where the tang is rounded off in profile, such that it makes contact with the backspring with a smaller section of the tang. It seems to happen more often with half stops, possibly because of the small tang contact with the backspring.

Polished tang/backsprings seem to suffer less from this condition, as does harder steels and lightly tensioned backsprings.
 
Shecky, thanks for that...it sounds like that is my problem as the knife is clean as can be. "Gritty" is the best word to describe it. How does the graphite idea sound? Can graphite be used as lubricant?

Thanks for that VBA. :)
 
I'd try White Lightning or some other lube first. Graphite might work.

Your 110 might not have the extensive wear that is galling. It may simply be a manufacturing anomaly. And it may not even originate on the tang/backspring/lockbar mating surfaces. Is it still gritty if you hold the lockbar open while swinging the blade? Really, the best solution may be learning to live with it.

If you can't, and want it to be as smooth as possible, and you are unwilling/unable to disassemble the knife to smooth out those surfaces manually, you might try what I tried on a couple knives that developed this problem. But be warned, this method can be potentially destructive. I lapped the joints against each other with a mixture of mineral oil and powdered abrasive - some volcano dust. No kidding. Stuff that a friend gave me when Mt St. Helens erupted. If there are no local volcanoes in your neighborhood, an alternative such as scouring powder may suffice. Ideally a real metal lapping compound might be best. I mixed the abrasive and oil, put a tiny drop on the tang, and worked the blade open and closed few dozen times. This actually seemed to work, wearing down the rough surfaces into smoothness. Clean out the joint VERY WELL! You don't want any foreign matter left behind. Then clean it again. All the oil and abrasive needs to be removed. Use solvent. Then use soap and water. Over and over. A warning again: when you're lapping the blade against the backspring, the abrasive mixture will not stay on the tang, but will seep between the blade and liner and into the pivot. Thus it is very important to make sure it's cleaned out very well. If not, the abrasive will continue to wear on the blade joint, pivot and liners every time you use it, possibly causing shorter lifespan of the knife. USE THIS METHOD AT YOUR OWN RISK!
 
Galling thru the U.S.A. Sounds like a commerical.........I've seen worse......300Bucks

Galling.jpg
 
Thanks for all that knowledge. I learned a lot from this one...I had always wondered if it was rough parts creating that gritty feeling but I had never read anything about it. :)
 
aza77 said:
Does anyone know if there is any type of oil I might have in my house that is good for lubricating the joint of a Bass Pro 110? I heard that sewing machine oil is good but I don't think I have any of that...is there anything else?

WD40 is not a good choice, is that right?

Thanks so much for the help, :)
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Mineral oil. Leave it open to breathe overnight, and it will be good to -25°C.
 
Since this thread seems to have been resurrected, I thought I'd take a minute and comment on "galling," since I seem to have missed those remarks the first time around.

Strictly speaking, "galling" is a phenomenon that is unique to stainless steels, and has to do with the steel's affinity for itself. Two separate pieces of the same type of stainless, when in contact with each other (and particularly under stress) will attempt to become one piece of steel again. This leads to surface irregularities that, while initially microscopic, can become a serious problem over time.

Different types of stainless have differing susceptibilities towards galling, and the problem is usually solved by using different types of steel in places where this type of contact can occur. No amount of polishing or lubricating the steel will prevent true galling.

Simple wear or abrasion can also occur, of course, but this shouldn't be confused with galling.
 
Samael said:
Since this thread seems to have been resurrected, I thought I'd take a minute and comment on "galling," since I seem to have missed those remarks the first time around.

Strictly speaking, "galling" is a phenomenon that is unique to stainless steels, and has to do with the steel's affinity for itself. Two separate pieces of the same type of stainless, when in contact with each other (and particularly under stress) will attempt to become one piece of steel again. This leads to surface irregularities that, while initially microscopic, can become a serious problem over time.

Different types of stainless have differing susceptibilities towards galling, and the problem is usually solved by using different types of steel in places where this type of contact can occur. No amount of polishing or lubricating the steel will prevent true galling.

Simple wear or abrasion can also occur, of course, but this shouldn't be confused with galling.
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now that is the best explanation i have ever heard on the subject!
 
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