12 inch Ontario Machete vs Cedar

pict

pict

Joined
Jan 7, 2003
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The other day I used my Modified 12 inch Ontario machete to harvest a large piece of Cedar for several projects I have in mind. Normally this would be done with a saw and an axe but since I own neither (here in the US) I used the machete. In my opinion the machete will never replace the axe, hatchet, or saw in the northern forest but it can be pressed into service and get the job done. I don't say anything in this video because there really isn't anything to say. I just shut up and cut. The video demonstrates chopping, splitting (w/ baton), and shaping using the scandi grind at the base of the blade.

12 INCH ONTARIO MACHETE vs CEDAR

Mac
 
I had Siguy mod mine ala your video and it outchopped my Siguy sharpened BK-1 and and Carbon V Trailmaster. Your mod really maximizes that blade.---KV
 
Great video Pict! I can smell the campfire from here!

What are you shaping that cedar into?
 
The 80/20 rule applies to machetes. You get 80% of the function out of the first 20% of investment. If you put a little work into the 12 inch Ontario blade you are way ahead of the game in terms of pure function.

I have nothing against the high end custom or re-worked machetes out there but you really are heading into the 80% investment for the last 20% of function. That's fine if you can afford it. On the other hand you can do a lot of that work yourself and tailor the blade to exactly what you want. For lack of a better equipped shop I put these mods on the blade with hand tools and elbow grease, since I'm only modifying the blades I use for bush craft it works for me. Mac
 
Hey Pict,

It almost looked like you were making a cedar fireboard for a little friction fire class?
 
Cool video ... how did the edge hold up after the chopping and batoning.

I could see you had no trouble carving with it but was there any rolling ?
 
KuRUpTD said:
Cool video ... how did the edge hold up after the chopping and batoning.

I could see you had no trouble carving with it but was there any rolling ?
Click to expand...

No, damage. The forward convex edge takes all the impact, a convex edge resists rolling and doesn't stick. The bottom portion of the edge near the handle is a sharp scandi grind that takes no impact at all when chopping so it stays nice and sharp. The only way I have ever damaged a convex edge on a machete is to hit something other than wood, nails, rocks, embedded wire, rebar hidden in the weeds etc. Mac
 
I liked the special effects, it reminded me of the knife game that Bishop, the android (excuse me, synthetic human), did on Aliens 2! :D
 
Pict,

Great video... I don't own an Ontario, they are 1095 right? How does the hardness/temper compare to the Tram? I assume that there is a difference that makes you like the Ontario blade in PA over the Tram......
 
The Ontario bites deeper into seasoned wood, it acts more like a hatchet. The Ontario is heavier for its length than the Tramontina. To get the same hardwood chopping power from a Tramontina you have to go with a longer blade. It is also thicker/stiffer and makes splitting easier. They also seem harder than the Tramontina but I don't have any numbers on that, it's just an impression. They are 1095. Mac
 
I'm in the process of convexing mine with sandpaper and a mousepad. How did you get a scandi grind without power tools?
 
Send 'em to Siguy of this forum. He does a killer job at a great price.--:thumbup:KV
 
abiggs said:
I'm in the process of convexing mine with sandpaper and a mousepad. How did you get a scandi grind without power tools?
Click to expand...

I clamp the blade tot eh edge of my workbench and use a mill file to do the rough work being careful not to remove metal down to the very edge. Once I have the angle where I want it on both sides I wrap the file with sandpaper an take it down to about 600 grit. Mac
 
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