12" serrated contact wheel

Danbo

Danbo

Joined
Nov 28, 1999
Messages
14,985
Just ordered a 12" serrated contact wheel for my Bader, and am going to try a little hollow grinding for a change. I have never done anything but flat grinding. 2 questions immediately come to mind.

(1) Am I going to have more trouble or less trouble hollow grinding than flat grinding?

(2) The reason I bought this 12" serrated wheel, is because Bader was running a special on them, since they are slightly less than 2"(maybe 1/8" to 1/4" less) wide. Is this going to hinder me? Seems to me it shouldn't make much of a difference.
 
the width wont be a problem, but I would NOT use a serrated wheel. I have tried this, and they do not run nearly as smoothly as one without serrations........but then its your choice.
 
Well, hopefully it will be fairly smooth running, as it is on the way. It was serrated or nothing; and the price was really good compared to catalog prices on a wheel this size.
 
My wheel is a serrated with a 55 durometer (I think). This is all I have ever ground on, so I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems to run pretty smooth. The only time I notice any bumps is when I am grinding with a 240 or 320 grit belt and I have my grinder speed turned down to about 1000 SFPM. But then I think it is just the seem that I am feeling.

I would be interested to here some more opions about the serrated vs. smooth contact wheels.
 
I don't know what you paid for it but there is a maker from South Afcria that makes and sales wheels.I had him make me a 10 inch wheel for my KMG and the wheel he sent me was unreal.it runs smooth
and the tracking is out off this world.I paid 160 and that included
shipping.I agree with Tom I have a serrated 8 inch wheel and the only think I use it for is profiling.You should look Bertie up,
if I buy another wheel,I will be getting it from him.
 
Hey, I was planning to run a thread very similar to this one. Can I ride along?

My question was going to be: Are there any basics different that I should know compared to my flat grinding. I too have so far only flat ground (the full-V type). My wheel is 10 inch smooth. I don't wont't to practice on wood strips. I do have some 308 (I think) I can do that with.

The two primary reasons I want to learn hollow grinding is because: (1) I should and (2) I want to do some flat over hollow (and that one is my real enticement).

RL
 
Originally posted by Danbo

(1) Am I going to have more trouble or less trouble hollow grinding than flat grinding?

(2) The reason I bought this 12" serrated wheel, is because Bader was running a special on them, since they are slightly less than 2"(maybe 1/8" to 1/4" less) wide. Is this going to hinder me? Seems to me it shouldn't make much of a difference.
Click to expand...

It is a learning curve, just like learning to flat grind.
I have found that, the smaller the wheel, the easier it is to grind. The smaller wheel creates a "groove" quicker. So a 12" wheel is not the easiest. Just take it slow.
I start with the blade edge up, I have already ground a 45 degree angle on each side almost to the parallel lines, and I have a couple of layers of masking tape wrapped around the blade, where I want my plunge to end.
I start about 1/8-1/4" in from that, twisting the edge into the wheel, as it nears the line, I roll/twist the back of the blade into the wheel to get the grind going towards the back of the blade. At that point, I move the blade across the wheel, from choil, to point. I make a couple of passes, and flip the blade to the other side and repeat. You don't want to do all your grinding on one side. It really causes stress in the steel, and can promote warping.
The rest of it is like flat grinding.
Use the handle to twist in the direction you need the grind to go.
Hollow grinding is not that hard. If you can flat grind, you are halfway there.
Good luck.

Edited to add: The narrower wheel won't make any difference, in fact it may save you time having to track the belt off to one side, or the other, to round the plunge cut. Yours will already be off the wheel on each side.
just make sure to break the edge of the belts with a piece of scrap, held to the edge at a 45 degree angle. that will round the belt over the wheel, so the edge won't cut in to the plunge area.
 
I Hollow grind 90 percent of my blades, I find it easier than flat grinding, once you establish the groove in the blade, you just have to put it back in the groove and take another pass...I agree with Mike, the larger the wheel, the more it is like flat grinding...I started with an 8 inch serrated wheel, now I mainly use a 10 inch smooth wheel, but I think eventually I would like to go to a 14 inch smooth wheel.....my 2 cents...:D
 
I have noticed that the serrated wheels make course belts last longer, but I don't like them for finish grinding. For me they make the finsish kind of bumby.
Kyle Fuglesten
 
I have a 14" serrated wheel from Bader that I love. I flat grind most of my blades but I have used the 14" wheel quite a bit and I find it easy to use.

I approach it much the same way I approach by platen with the exception of placing the initial groove. With a larger wheel, compared to my 8" wheel, I've found that I have more time to establish the groove where I want it. I can walk it toward the edge or spine before it sets itself.

The 14" wheel came very easy for me and I know that Alan Folts got a 12" wheel that he found the same.

Grind away and let us know what you find.
 
I've also found hollow grinding easier than flat grinding. As already noted, as the groove forms from pass to pass you will start to feel the groove and begin to feel the difference between too much pressure on the edge or the spine. I've only used the 8" wheel so far. Serrated for the rough work and smooth for the finer grits. The serrated will work all around, but the smooth sure puts a finer finish on the last couple grits. I use specifically save the smooth for these last couple grits so as not to spoil the wheel with too much pressure or with grit particles when rough grinding or profiling. Sure is a dickens to learn to be ambidextrous. Grab some O-1 and make a hunter for yourself for a first go. Kinda like using a water ball in golf. It's prabably not going in the pond, but just in case....

Dan
Bearpaw Knives
www.bearpawknives.com
 
Howdy There...!
I also hollow grind with a serrated wheel for doing my rough grind before heat treating. I use a smooth wheel to do my finish grinding with the higher grit belts. As far as the width, I don't think that it will make that much difference, Mr. George Herron uses a 1" wide belt and wheel and he uses only part of the edge of the wheel to make his grind. With hollow grinding I have found that you will develope a "feel" for the groove and how to control that groove on your blades. It will take some practice, but it does make a pretty knife. Good luck and don't give up, take your time and practice.

Later "Possum":cool:
 
My Wilton came with an 8" serrated wheel. After about 50 blades I felt I was missing something and bought an 8" smooth wheel. Ended up putting the serrated wheel back on. I like the fact that the serrated wheel disapates heat much better. Since then I have purchased a 10" serrated wheel and use it for all the bottom blade grinds. Now all I need is a 5" wheel. Anyone have one they would like to sell? ;)
 
I have a serrated wheel the gaps are quite wide I often think too wide. A mate has a flat wheel I use it from time to time I like it better than mine. I don't find one runs cooler than the other, but I don't do enough to compare that much.

My mentor cut out 3 small blades about 3.5 inch long with the full tang. they were 1/4 in or thinner slates of wood. He gave me a new course belt and a few pointers and got me to grind the 3 different shapes. I found it very helpful.It was quick to see what was happening
the wood was red hard wood not pine. I took to hollow grinding well after the wood. One tip lock your elbows by your side. Some may describe the position better. The main thing is if you try to grind at arms length you can get a lot more wobble not good.

Good luck with it If you try the wood send a reply. Lots of tips are on the forum some work better than others. I will not be hurt if you say it is no good. You may help the next guy by giving your opinion.
 
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