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[slugpillow32]

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[awestib]

When you use the waterstones is it the same technique as using sandpaper on a hard surface?

Yes and no. Yes if you use sandpaper on a hard backing like HeavyHanded'd washboard or glass for instance although the paper itself has some give so not quite. No, because you would not do forth and back strokes for the most part, there is some change in "grit size"/abrasive power as you go along which you can alleviate with cleaning up the sandpaper regularly but IMO it is significant and there may be an effect near the edge with the waterstones during edge trailing strokes (slurry, loose abrasive/lapping etc.) that you unlikely get from the sandpaper, even if used wet. In the real world it all does not matter I guess though!

You most certainly however could do the same thing as I described above just with edge trailing strokes on sandpaper with hard backing. The final edge result will likely be the same but the finish/look of waterstone sharpened bevels is unique IMO.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks for everyone comments and help so far. I really appreciate it.
(...)
I think that you are probably right about the incomplete apex. I switched to a harder backing like you suggested (hardbound book). Though from the sounds of it it would have even been better had I used something harder like the wood, glass, or stone as you suggested. Right?

When it comes to the incomplete apex it makes me wonder how long this is supposed to take usually? I know that SAK steel is pretty soft, but maybe I should have started with 220 grit sandpaper or something like that.

(...)

The lack of grinding speed is directly related to the lack of a hard backing. The Victorinox steel is indeed very soft, so the steel itself shouldn't be an obstacle at all. The hardbound book you tried is firmer, but you want to make the sandpaper work more as a stone would do. As you approach that level of firmness under the sandpaper, the abrasive will gain the hard footing it needs in order to really dig at the steel, and the grinding will go much faster. To improve even upon that, try using some adhesive to firmly stick the paper to the hard backing. This eliminates any 'give' under the paper, so it won't move or slip or lift up and roll around the apex. Edges will be much crisper as a result.


David

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

OP,

It seems you're trying to convex a flat ground SAK by using mousepad or semi hard backing. It is not the best way as conversion usually entails removing quite a lot of material, in this case a softer SAK might be easier but still need to abrade the steel away. That's why David and others have been saying you need to use harder backing or a stone.

I'd say maintaining a convex with mousepad method is more realistic, if a light pressure is used so the risk of rounding the apex is less. Creating/converting a flat ground to convex is best achieved using harder backing or a stone.

You might want to check Murray Carter video that has good explanation on how to convex using stone, applicable also for sandpaper on glass backing. Good luck!