.125 = 1/8" Kydex is it worth it?

Hankins

Hankins

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.125 = 1/8" Kydex is it worth it? or Just overkill?
Is it worth using for sheaths? Who's tried it?
Yes there are those who think leather is the only way to go but Humor me
Advantages?
Disadvantages?
 
are wondering about how kydex performs as a sheath material or is the question more about thw .125 thickness? have you worked with kydex before?
 
One thing I read somewhere on the internet is that with thicker kydex you will get less detail in your sheats.
 
It's really thick and stiff, maybe for those crash hawk axes where you have a long leverage handle to overcome that retention.


On knives I think .060 or .080 is enough.

.060 is very snappy and fits well
A finished sheath is very strong.



Don't take my word for it though, trying it firsthand is the only way to know for yourself.
 
Should have explained myself better...
Yes have used it quite a bit and prefer .060 for all except fighters and large blades They get .093
Looking to make some HD blades in the near future and wonder if it just overkill???
Tried doing some layered sheaths with Kydex/Kevlar/Kydex but was too time consuming.
Although Very Strong!
Not too worried about getting Definition
Looking for a good compromise between cold/hot strength and the blade be readily deployable
 
You have far more experience than me but if you are looking to make a sheath to withstand a greater temperature range, have you tried Boltaron? It's a little harder to work but I believe it's more durable, too.
 
I prefer .080 for most of my work on gun holsters. If/when I dabble with knives I don't see that changing much. .125 just seems like overkill to me big time.
 
I've used .060, .080, and .093 for knives. For most applications, I tend to favor the .080 anymore.

For a sheath application, I think the .125 is overkill. Probably more appropriate for a structural/industrial application than anything.
 
Hankins said:
Explain Boltaron Vs Kydex
Click to expand...

They developed them for interior of buses and aircraft.


Boltaron is the real name for Concealx


http://www.boltaron.com/films/4330.asp

and there are also several types of kydex

We probably buy Kydex T or Kydex 100 from the knife suppliers

http://www.kydex.com/Uploads/Files/Kydex/Resources/KYDEX®100_TechnicalDataSheet.pdf
http://www.kydex.com/technical-data/FAQs.aspx
http://www.kydex.com/uploads/files/kydex_tb_140-a_fundamentalsofthermoforming_061412.pdf
http://www.kydex.com/uploads/files/kydex_tb_121-a_maximumservicetemperature_061412.pdf




Boltaron has a lower forming temp than the Kydex does, but when you buy all the pretty colours and camo, it's Boltaron.
Boltaron is cheaper too

If we are able to thermoform it like we do kydex, there is a danger of them losing shape if left in a hot car, or in the desert temps they have in sand land war country.



http://www.kydex.com/uploads/files/kydex_tb_121-a_maximumservicetemperature_061412.pdf
This shows they lose form under 200*F
 
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Count, if you are saying Boltaron can withstand less temperature fluctuations than Kydez then I stand corrected. I always thought the opposite was true. In either case I believe those differences are minor. Boltaron should still be worth trying and in my opinion it gives a better looking finished product. There are also optional textures, and as you mentioned, colors.
 
Boltaron curls up like a damn burrito in my oven. When you go to mold the stuff in your press, it wants to curl up under itself, and you have to straighten it out. Doesn't always mold flat, and by time you get the curl out and get things lined up, the material has cooled off and hardened considerably. Sometimes, depending on the size of your piece of boltaron, it will curl up, and roll over in your oven, burning and making shiny spots on the finished side.

Kydex stays hot and flat, and is infinitely easier to work with.

I've tried the .060 stuff. Its too flimsy, and it is almost too good when it comes to "printing" things into the mold. It will show a speck of dirt, any weird inconsistencies in tape etc. You have to press your standard eyelets a bit too far down, and risk cracking them.

I tried .080 for awhile, because I had trouble locating eyelets that were long enough for my standard .093. I seemed to have alot of inconsistencies with eyelet length, even with the eyelets I normally bought. They were most always too short, and my dies would bottom out on the material without flaring them down all the way. I'd have to get creative and carefully press or hammer them flat against the sheath with different tools. Tracy Mickley's S-61 Siska eyelets are the best for .080 and .093 kydex/boltaron I've found. (when they're in stock!)

.080 kydex looks great, but a bit too thin. I have some issues with the knife having wiggle room sometimes too. It's too inconsistent with me.

.093 kydex doesn't show the detail that the thinner material does, but I think it's more solid. That thickness of material seems to want to grip around the knife alot better for some reason. It doesn't budge or wiggle, but still inserts and retracts nicely. I've made a few sheaths lately that didn't need eyelets at all, they were so tight and heavy.

The only problem with the .125 material would be the eyelets. The S-61 eyelets are just long enough to barely flare properly on .093 material. Tracy sells an S-66 eyelet that's pretty long, but may be too long and split on you.

I'd say try it out, but the eyelets are going to be your issue IMO.

Edit - The material may be thick and springy enough that you may not even need eyelets. I think the weight and heft of the material will keep it together tightly, and maybe some chamfered holes may be all thats needed for belt loops/tek-lok etc.
 
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Varga Knives said:
Count, if you are saying Boltaron can withstand less temperature fluctuations than Kydez then I stand corrected. I always thought the opposite was true. In either case I believe those differences are minor. Boltaron should still be worth trying and in my opinion it gives a better looking finished product. There are also optional textures, and as you mentioned, colors.
Click to expand...

From my notes gathered from the factory info


KYDEX:
Kydex is the trade name of and a registered product of the KLEERDEX Corp

The recommended temperature for working Kydex is 350* F.

CONCEALX:
Concealx is a trade name of BladeTech for the product Boltron.

BOLTRON works at a lower temperature and cools faster than KYDEX.
The factory recommended temperature for most Boltron products is 290* - 335* F do not exceed 335*F.


It amounts to about 50 degrees F difference between the two, I don't call that to significant either, but if you heat the boltaron at Kydex temps, it's easy to overheat it.
 
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Heat is not the only part of the equation. The cook time is significant as well. A lower temp will work if you leave your material in for longer cook and possibly give more even and controlled heating.
 
IMO the whole point of kydex/boltaron/holstex, etc is that it is easy to form, but primarily that its ultra thin and light. It is used to make a very strong finished product with a minimal footprint and lastly to also provide chemical and heat resistance.

Kydex's primary retention type is to use the shape of the mold in order to fit the profile of the item and interlock with some section of the item. Then it is kydex's flexibility that allows it to hold via tension but flex and release the item. If you go that thick you will lose that flexibility...

I'd stick with the thin stuff...

-Eric
 
Varga Knives said:
Not to nit-pick but I believe Boltarons forming temperature from their website is from 335-385. This is for product 4332 which is specified for holsters and sheaths.

http://www.boltaron.com/films/4332.asp
Click to expand...

Like I said, it depends on which one you are using and they all have different specs.
I compiled that info several years ago and I don't recall that one being available.

4330 was the one being used at that time.

It all depends on what your supplier is selling to you and often you will never know.
 
Good point Eric
As for using Eyelets you are correct it is difficult to get them in just the right length.
Splitting and Non-Roll is a real issue and as stated there are different grades of the same sized Eyelet
Some are just better than others
Plan is to use Chicago bolts combined with a bonding agent for the thicker materials
 
I use the .060 holstex regularly and find it plenty strong and durable. I have gone up to .080, but have even found that overkill for my knives. I cannot imagine what the heck .125 would be used for. I definitely prefer holstex over kydex and boltaron. I like the way it heats and the more rubbery feel to it when hot. It also does not shrink much when heated like I found kydex to do if not careful.
 
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