Executive summary: <em style="font-style: normal; font-weight: bolder;">12C27 won in this case</em>, which perhaps surprisingly was a case where edge holding was important.
It began when I wanted to remove the diamond patterning on the handle of my F1. The CPM-440V knife was an obvious candidate for that, as the cutting involved slicing through lots of tough material (I took just a little at a time, as I didn't want to cut away to a lower level than the rest of the handle).
After that, the knife was totally dull and wouldn't slice paper cleanly and the like, something it'd done very well before.
Last week I wanted to give my Fällkniven S1 the same treatment (as I've started to use it more). I thought it would be a good idea to use my EKA Nordic W11, as I wanted to dull it in order to see how it resharpens. <small style="color: #999;">(Yes, it's got a longer edge than the CPM-440V knife, but about in proportion to the S1's larger handle.)</small>
To my surprise, it wasn't dulled to any noticable degree.
<small style="color: #999;">To have been truly scientific, I should of course have done one side of each handle with each knife and at the same time so that practice couldn't have improved my technique. But I don't think that'd done much of a difference. Maybe I should also have had the edges ground to the same angle, but perhaps not, since they were about the same subjective sharpness [as in slicing paper cleanly and force required to cut strings].</small>
Hypothesis: For this[?] material, steel hardness is what makes a difference.
<img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/.1x1knives.gif" alt="" width=0 height=0>
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Urban Fredriksson www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/
Latest updates:
A Marttiini, another Marttiini and a Brusletto knife, links to Scandinavian manufacturers, Fällkniven K1+K2 kitchen knives
It began when I wanted to remove the diamond patterning on the handle of my F1. The CPM-440V knife was an obvious candidate for that, as the cutting involved slicing through lots of tough material (I took just a little at a time, as I didn't want to cut away to a lower level than the rest of the handle).
After that, the knife was totally dull and wouldn't slice paper cleanly and the like, something it'd done very well before.
Last week I wanted to give my Fällkniven S1 the same treatment (as I've started to use it more). I thought it would be a good idea to use my EKA Nordic W11, as I wanted to dull it in order to see how it resharpens. <small style="color: #999;">(Yes, it's got a longer edge than the CPM-440V knife, but about in proportion to the S1's larger handle.)</small>
To my surprise, it wasn't dulled to any noticable degree.
<small style="color: #999;">To have been truly scientific, I should of course have done one side of each handle with each knife and at the same time so that practice couldn't have improved my technique. But I don't think that'd done much of a difference. Maybe I should also have had the edges ground to the same angle, but perhaps not, since they were about the same subjective sharpness [as in slicing paper cleanly and force required to cut strings].</small>
Hypothesis: For this[?] material, steel hardness is what makes a difference.
<img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/.1x1knives.gif" alt="" width=0 height=0>
------------------
Urban Fredriksson www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/
Latest updates:
A Marttiini, another Marttiini and a Brusletto knife, links to Scandinavian manufacturers, Fällkniven K1+K2 kitchen knives