154CM vs D2 vs ZDP-189

It should probably be mentioned that ANY knife can be used to knock on a door and perhaps eliminate the need for prying at all.

:) :) :)
 
i love my 154grip, i wouldn't recomend screwdriving with anything other than a SAK with a screwdriver, that said it has a very solid tip, you wont find any problems. the 710 is a tank and a half, i've never heard of any problems with it, other than lite corrosion in tropical cliamates, typical however.

i'd go bm any day
 
therulebookman said:
Obviously a knife is not the optimal tool for prying, but a screwdriver isn't the optimal tool for opening paint cans but we all use them for that, and if we ever snap one while doing it we expect to get a new one from our lifetime warranty on said screwdriver.

I don't expect my future knife to be the best pry bar, I just want to know which one is going to hold up the best under these admittedly terrible conditions that I am bound to put my knife through. I expect all knives to cut, and some to cut better than others, I know that all of these steels will cut excellently which is why I am asking questions about their other properties.

additionally, ease of sharpening isn't a great concern for me, I'll be able to take some time to sharpen every now and then.

For future replies, lets just assume that I'm hunting for the 'best' knife that fits the bill, it doesn't have to be a freaking pry bar, i just want to know what it will do.
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710d2 is for you, or a new d2 osborne 96x
 
Hey, I finally got some good suggestions, thanks. I was reading another thread and some folks on there were saying that D2 isn't tough, but I work in a manufacturing plant, and we make things out of D2 when they might be sheared or might break in order that they don't break. At Blade this weekend I talked to an engineer at Benchmade and he said that in a folder (namely a BM folder) D2 is definitely the way to go for just brutal toughness, but that 154 would hold up pretty well also, but probably better in a thicker blade obviously. I think I am going to go for the Cabelas D2 Grip because the cheapest I can find the 710 is $110 and the blade is thicker on the Grip and not false edged as much. For the money it seems like its one of the best values in knives.

The Cop Tool looks like an awesome tool, but i need a folder i can carry all the time. I also have a Victorinox SAK with pliers and screw driver and all and to be quite honest I would feel more comfortable prying with a lot of knives than the screwdriver blade on it, it just isn't very stout.
 
therulebookman said:
I think I am going to go for the Cabelas D2 Grip because the cheapest I can find the 710 is $110 and the blade is thicker on the Grip and not false edged as much. For the money it seems like its one of the best values in knives.
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I think that the 710D2 at $110 or so is one of the best values in knives - if you look around you can find it for even a bit less from a reputable dealer.
 
IMHO, the BM 710 D2 is the "uberknife." Get the 710-D2 and don't look back. BTW, it's my EDC knife. Coveralls, or three piece suit and Wing Tips, the 710 D2 is in my pocket!:D
 
therulebookman said:
Hey, I finally got some good suggestions, thanks. I was reading another thread and some folks on there were saying that D2 isn't tough, but I would in a manufacturing plant, and we make things out of D2 when they might be sheared or might break in order that they don't break. At Blade this weekend I talked to an engineer at Benchmade and he said that in a folder (namely a BM folder) D2 is definitely the way to go for just brutal toughness, but that 154 would hold up pretty well also, but probably better in a thicker blade obviously. I think I am going to go for the Cabelas D2 Grip because the cheapest I can find the 710 is $110 and the blade is thicker on the Grip and not false edged as much. For the money it seems like its one of the best values in knives.
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I have made a comment that D2 isn't good for heavy use knives and choppers. I've read numerous times of this from people from all corners: plain enthusiasts and users giving their opinion but manufacturers alike. I cannot give any links to these comments as it hasn't been that important to me but I have observed nontheless. This together with a clear cohesive answer from Bladesmith Bill Harsey has lead to my opinion. (Let me know if Bill's comments on D2 need to be removed for some reason.)

Bladesmith Bill Harsey said:
Here is the difference, you cannot grind D-2 into a super thin edge (like .015 to .007 thousandths of an inch thick before first sharpening) and expect it to hold up. It has to be left a bit thicker and I'd be comfortable with an edge thickness more like .035 thousandths of an inch thick for a folding knife or fixed blade hunter.

D-2, because of it's big carbide/grain structure does not have the transverse bend fracture strength of other tool steels so the edge will not stand up as well to prying or side load.

http://www.professionalsoldiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10648&page=3
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I do not own any knives in D2 and I am not educated enough myself to take the conversation any further other than "That's what I've read" :)
 
I like your comments PatriotDan. I realize that there are tougher steels out there than D2, but besides $150+ dollar customs I don't know of any production folders that are made out of a tougher steel. If you know of some I would love to hear your opinion of some folders that you have either heard of or experienced that are tough. I'm not trying to just talk about blade steels and the theory behind them, I want to know about actual knives, their toughness and how hard its going to be for me to break the tip off of it.
 
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