15n20 Scandi Recomendations

[scott kozub]

Hey Guys.

I making a Scandi Bushcraft from 0.120" 15N20. Out of the quench I'm sitting at 65 HRC.

Any recommendations for both final tempered hardness and bevel angle? 11 degrees seems pretty popular but I'm wondering if I can push that a bit thinner to get a slightly higher bevel.

The customer had originally wanted a very hefty scandi but this was the only stock I had available and it's difficult for me to get steel right now. The customer did say that toughness was a key desire and I'm not sure what the primary use will be. He just spends a lot of time in the bush and said his skinner isn't hacking it.

 

[scott kozub]

I should probably note that I want to give him a true scandi and not a microbevel. That can always be added later if need be.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If you do a true Scandi in .120" thick metal with a 22° edge ( 11° per side) the grind will go up .6". Decreasing the angle will raise the grind line, increasing the edge angle will lower it.

 

[scott kozub]

I only calculate 0.3? Assuming a right angle triangle (1/2 blade thinckness), angle = 11 degrees and thickness is reduced to 0.06" I think an 11 degree angle would give a bevel height of .6" if it was a chisel grind? Unless I'm totally messing this up.

If you do a true Scandi in .120" thick metal with a 22° edge ( 11° per side) the grind will go up .6". Decreasing the angle will raise the grind line, increasing the edge angle will lower it.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

A 0.12" slab flat beveled 0.6" up from the edge on both sides has a 11.42° included angle. (Edit for clarity.)

 

[Sam Dean]

I can't comment about toughness, as I don't have enough experience with a scandi grind. Here's a visual showing angle and height, if that helps:

 

[scott kozub]

I can't comment about toughness, as I don't have enough experience with a scandi grind. Here's a visual showing angle and height, if that helps:

View attachment 1317977

Thanks. This is what I was calculating. I have tempered it down to 62 HRC and am debating whether or not to go a point or 2 softer. Maybe I'll leave it there and see if I get any chipping after final grinding. I can draw it back a bit further if need be before the handle goes on.

 

[scott kozub]

Got to say I'm very impressed with this steel. I ground it to 10.5 degrees and put a rough 400 grit edge on it. I tempered to 62 thinking i could drop it back if need be. I whaled away on some logs. Cross-grain swinging very hard. Saw some chipping under the microscope. I decided to baton a 2x4. Got about 5 inches deep and it started getting hard. After 5 more whacks, I realized there was a nail in the wood. All the blade had was this little chip. I cleaned it up and dropped the hardness down to 60.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-vmCDtj2bx/

 

[Fallbrook Forge]

Sounds like you got it figured out.

I was going to recommend 60rc for that grind, steel and desired use. Should be a cutter!

 

[TheEdge01]

Got to say I'm very impressed with this steel. I ground it to 10.5 degrees and put a rough 400 grit edge on it. I tempered to 62 thinking i could drop it back if need be. I whaled away on some logs. Cross-grain swinging very hard. Saw some chipping under the microscope. I decided to baton a 2x4. Got about 5 inches deep and it started getting hard. After 5 more whacks, I realized there was a nail in the wood. All the blade had was this little chip. I cleaned it up and dropped the hardness down to 60.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-vmCDtj2bx/

Nice work!!!!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

OOPS, sorry, I used the wrong angle calculator. Yes, .03" is what a 11DPS (22° included) bevel would be in .120 steel.

 

[scott kozub]

Thanks for the help guys. Once my scales come in I'll post some picks. I haven't done a proper scandi before but it's crazy how sharp you can get it. It just take forever to get the initial edge. 5 finger tips bleeding from my stones. Ya I know there's ways to avoid that. I'm just an idiot.

 

[scott kozub]

Thanks for all the help guys. My g10 arrived Monday so I was able to finish this up. It ended up being a scandi with a 10.5° bevel in 15n20 at 60 HRC. Blade is 6". Its absolutely silly how easy it is to get a scandi hair whittling sharp. I didn't force a patina. I'll let the customer do that if they want. This was also my first time using g10. I still prefer micarta as this felt too plasticky. I did bead blast the handle and it feels a lot better.

 

[Maxrez74]

Thanks for all the help guys. My g10 arrived Monday so I was able to finish this up. It ended up being a scandi with a 10.5° bevel in 15n20 at 60 HRC. Blade is 6". Its absolutely silly how easy it is to get a scandi hair whittling sharp. I didn't force a patina. I'll let the customer do that if they want. This was also my first time using g10. I still prefer micarta as this felt too plasticky. I did bead blast the handle and it feels a lot better. View attachment 1327757 View attachment 1327758 View attachment 1327759 View attachment 1327760 View attachment 1327761

how do you do the stamp on your blades?

 

[scott kozub]

how do you do the stamp on your blades?

UV Stencil kit and electro etch with an etcher I made from a doorbell transformer and a few other parts. Gives me the flexibility to use a different type or custom etched like dates and names. If I had to do it over, I'd seriously getting a vinal cutter instead of the stencils. You can also buy stencils for cheap if your going to do the same etch over and over again. I always etch before the handle or bolsters go on.

 

[scott kozub]

Here's a video of the edge being tested. I batoned down a quarter log of oak then chopped through a 2x4 and cored a hole to try to chip the blade. It held up great and still shaved.