18" AKs Rock!!

but it was definately not without some flaws.

Thank god for that. I'd hate to think some evil entity had gone to Nepal and turned the kamis who pound hot steel with their hearts, their hands, and their hammers, into some form of inscrutable machines, incapable of anything less than perfection as defined by consumers of machine made products.

Want perfection? Tell you what, get a custom knifemaker to turn you out a handforged, zone hardened, knife, eighteen inches long, with a handmade scabbard and two accessory knives. Be prepared to take out a loan to pay for it, or maybe he'll let you finance it and make monthly payments. Tell you what else, it won't cut any better than mine.;)

Greg
 
Originally posted by Sylvrfalcn
but it was definately not without some flaws.

Thank god for that. I'd hate to think some evil entity had gone to Nepal and turned the kamis who pound hot steel with their hearts, their hands, and their hammers, into some form of inscrutable machines, incapable of anything less than perfection as defined by consumers of machine made products.

Want perfection? Tell you what, get a custom knifemaker to turn you out a handforged, zone hardened, knife, eighteen inches long, with a handmade scabbard and two accessory knives. Be prepared to take out a loan to pay for it, or maybe he'll let you finance it and make monthly payments. Tell you what else, it won't cut any better than mine.;)

Greg
Click to expand...


I think that pretty much says it all..:D
 
you not only said it, you hit it out of the park.

if a thick edge is a problem, try the thin edges made during the difficult times of the Maoist uprising...

munk
 
I went to sharpen and found the edge sooo thick it is going to take about a week to get the edge where I want it. As I drag the blade across the stone I can feel the differential hardness. The edge is much better, but it is not even scraping sharp yet. I will let you know when I get the edge up to par.
Click to expand...

if a thick edge is a problem, try the thin edges made during the difficult times of the Maoist uprising...
Click to expand...

They don't have a normal edge like other knives do. It's a convex bevel
Click to expand...

Well, it might just be that he got a blade that has an unfinished edge section. I have had 2or3 arrive that way (Cherokee Rose most recently). The edge is FLAT in spots, ie, there is NO edge and it takes a fair amount of stone work to fix it. However a trip to the section mentioned for sharpening advice is always a good idea.
 
Good point Rob,
I've also noticed a tendency on khuks to have a portion of the edge that's practically blunt. Usually, it'll be just back of the sweet spot at the beginning of the most curved section of the edge. Problem? Nah. When I was a kid, store bought knives came unsharpened so the purchaser could sharpen it to whatever edge he preferred. Some of the best knives I've ever owned wouldn't cut cold grits when they were new. Being an old country boy I just take knife sharpening for granted. Sad that knives are "too dangerous" for young boys to handle. That's how we get grown men walking around that have no idea how to put an edge on a knife. Don't even get me going on women that don't know how to cook.:grumpy: :p ;)

Greg
 
Sylvrfalcn,

I remember those days too. :D

I learned how to put an edge on a knife very early in my life.

For my AK's I don't need them shaving sharp, it leave a good sharp utility edge on them, it seems to last longer than a hair popping edge does.
 
Maybe I need to clarify.

I am not dissatisfied with my khuk. It is one of the most beautiful knives I have ever seen, let alone own. It is my first handmade knife purchases, and I wanted it for a worker, not a looker.

I have no intention of getting rid of it, and plan on getting it sharpened to where I want it. So I can use it. HI did an excellent job getting it to me and it is wonderfully finished. Except the edges. I always sharpen my own knives, and learned alot from the above links. Joe's FAQ has been a staple on my hard drive since I joined years ago.

My issue was specifically with the cutting ability. The flat edge sharpened right up, and is almost where I want it. This is my first exposure with a convex edge this large, and there will be a learning curve. I bought HI because of the reputation as "users", and "beaters". Cosmetics are of secondary importance.

The khuk scored high in cosmetics, low in function. Just the opposite of what I am looking for. But it is fixable. As I said in my first post, it is a keeper, and I will get another one, but it will take some work.

I am sorry if I have ruffled feathers. I thank the people that have steered me to the resources I need. This is one of my favorite groups to lurk, and I don't often participate because I have little to offer, this being my first khuk and all.

Now I need to decide between a 15" and a 12". The winner will go with me to the sandbox on my LBV. When I finish training and deploy with my NG unit. I got plenty of time though, as I am still on delayed entry and won't be deployable for a while. I am being reqired to take AIT in 2 MOS because of the high failure rate of my 2nd one.

pat
 
Maybe I need to clarify.

I am not dissatisfied with my khuk. It is one of the most beautiful knives I have ever seen, let alone own. It is my first handmade knife purchases, and I wanted it for a worker, not a looker.

I have no intention of getting rid of it, and plan on getting it sharpened to where I want it. So I can use it. HI did an excellent job getting it to me and it is wonderfully finished. Except the edges. I always sharpen my own knives, and learned alot from the above links. Joe's FAQ has been a staple on my hard drive since I joined years ago.

My issue was specifically with the cutting ability. The flat edge sharpened right up, and is almost where I want it. This is my first exposure with a convex edge this large, and there will be a learning curve. I bought HI because of the reputation as "users", and "beaters". Cosmetics are of secondary importance.

The khuk scored high in cosmetics, low in function. Just the opposite of what I am looking for. But it is fixable. As I said in my first post, it is a keeper, and I will get another one, but it will take some work.

I am sorry if I have ruffled feathers. I thank the people that have steered me to the resources I need. This is one of my favorite groups to lurk, and I don't often participate because I have little to offer, this being my first khuk and all.

Now I need to decide between a 15" and a 12". The winner will go with me to the sandbox on my LBV. When I finish training and deploy with my NG unit. I got plenty of time though, as I am still on delayed entry and won't be deployable for a while. I am being reqired to take AIT in 2 MOS because of the high failure rate of my 2nd one.

Also, I am a little bit foggy, with about 5 hours of sleep in the last 48. Time for bed.


pat
 
It has been said before by others, but it seems a good time to say again--

*Khuks do the work of an axe, so they should be sharpened like an axe. Convex.*

And convex bevels/edges can be just a sharp as anything else, and can be relatively thick or thin near the edge, also like anything else. Thicker is better for chopping as it's stronger.

Some HI khuks have a flat or slightly concave bevel and a convex edge, but the things mentioned for convex sharpening work fine. And that dull spot where the hardest belly starts can be a real b*tch.

The kardas can come a little thick and pretty dull, no question. On a several I've taken a series of stones and worked the flats to remove the ridge where the bevel starts (that's probably formed by hammering in the bevel or grinding the sides). Then I stoned the bevel, but keeping it convex and making a smooth transition towards the spine--here dishing in the stone is a plus, at least for the coarser stones. With care the finer polishing stones can be flat, and the angle smoothly varied. Before going to a finer stone, I use sandpaper of a similar grit on a resilient surface and everything smooths out nicely and evenly. Go to finer stone. Lather, Rinse, Repeat.

Result...An essentially full convex bevel with no visible grind line or any secondary bevel, and a straight even edge from the stone. Only it's two intersecting parabolas, not two intersecting circles. The blade isn't much thinner except where the bevel used to start, but it makes a huge difference in use. Some trouble by hand, but it only need be done once. Steeling, stropping or sanding on a resilient surface will maintain it.
 
Originally posted by Ankerson
lc609,

They don't have a normal edge like other knives do. It's a convex bevel.
Click to expand...

No, not always a convex bevel!!!! They're supposed to be convex, but the last several I have bought are not. They're more of a sabre grind that needs a convex edge put on them.
Consequently the newer knives still don't cut like my 18" AK did right out of the box!!!!
Now it not only had a convex edge, it also had and has a convex bevel!!!!

I found that with just a few strokes with a rod from my sharpmaker the blades on mine sharpen up pretty well.
Click to expand...

If your using a Sharpmaker you're not getting a whole truly Convex Edge!!!!

But it's a funny thing about H.I.Khuks. We're probably the only bunch of guys that praise knives not up to standards of even some Pakistani knives as far as edges go, let alone loose buttcaps, bolsters and other ailments.
But what do you expect from handmade knives that are sometimes produced under stress?
I can overlook the blips during such times. They shouldn't be there when things are going smooth.

But there is no excuse for edges that aren't sharp, let alone the fact that the kardas and chakmas are not up to the standards of the khuk itself, but the khuks are so damned good we put up with it.
The karda and chakma issue has always been the same, at least the length of time I've hung around this forum which has been near close to its beginnings.;)
I still say the chakmas need to be hard enough to do the job they're supposed to do or why not delete them totally since we have to carry something along that's hard enough to move the hard edge on the sweetspot when we go to the field.
I solved the problem on my 18" AK since I made two kardas to take the place of the useless ones that came with it.
Both are hard enough to move the metal along the sweetspot on my 18" AK.
And that is why I like the BirGhorka Village khuks over the more processed H.I.Premium khuks.
Since the villagers aren't worked as much there generally tends to be a thicker bevel which makes it easier to put on a true convex edge without removing so much material as is sometimes necessary on the premium blades.
 
kardas and chakmas are not up to the standards of the khuk itself
Click to expand...

I'd love to see 'em thinner and harder too, but they're not entirely lacking in usefulness. In the field, I use the karda as my eating knife, and the chakma works quite well at scraping mud off my boots so my tent doesn't wind up looking like a hog wallow.

When I figure out where I left my "round-tuit", I'm going to bust the handles off a karda and chakma, set up a makeshift forge and reharden the blades, then replace the handles with African ebony. I'll post the results, but don't hold your breath, "round-tuits" are highly evasive creatures.:(

Greg
 
If your using a Sharpmaker you're not getting a whole truly Convex Edge!!!!
Click to expand...

Yvsa



I am not using the Sharpmaker, I use one of the rods freehand like a steel to touchup the edge...It's not the same thing.
 
Originally posted by Sylvrfalcn
When I figure out where I left my "round-tuit", I'm going to bust the handles off a karda and chakma, set up a makeshift forge and reharden the blades, then replace the handles with African ebony. I'll post the results, but don't hold your breath, "round-tuits" are highly evasive creatures.:(

Greg
Click to expand...

Greg I know all to well about the elusiveness of the fabled
"round-tuits".:)
I'm waiting for at least fifteen and then I lost count.;)
 
Originally posted by Ankerson
Yvsa

I am not using the Sharpmaker, I use one of the rods freehand like a steel to touchup the edge...It's not the same thing.
Click to expand...

Ank I just saw your post from yesterday afternoon. We must've been posting near the same time. I misread your post about using the Sharpmaker, my bad.:o

Ank, you're right. It isn't quite the same thing.

I have to confess that sometimes when I'm in a hurry I use my very old set of ceramic rods set at angles in a cedar block to touch up the edge on about any knife even a khuk.
I bought the set on a trip down to Arkansas one time and stopped at a yard sale.
I paid $1.00 straight up for the set even though they were loaded up pretty bad, a little cleanser and a piece of crepe rubber pad fixed them right up.:D
They have a KwikSharp label and were made in Muskogee Oklahoma. I've never seen a set with the same brand name, ever, in all my roamings.:)
 
Yvsa,

That's OK..:D

Sorry I didn't respond sooner but the Power has been out and my internet connection just came back on over night..


I Live in Raleigh, NC.....caught in the middle of that Ice Storm.
 
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