- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 7,035
Like you said, they models by different Kamis are very different. My 20" CAks are all Bura's so that skew my opinion, as he's noted for putting a finer edge on the blade than other kamis. Mine bite, and bite deep, going a little over 4" deep on soft wood and 2.5+ inches on oak.I've never particularly cared for any CAK I've ever owned.
Now maybe it's just me:foot: but on most of the AK's I've owned the edge is thicker than I like which means less penetration. Also I think the way the blade is angled rather than curved makes it twist more in your grip.
But there is a huge variation in each individual model so the above could just be the examples I've handled.
From my experience, it's more a length for length comparison. Again, from the ones I own, a kuk of approximately the same weight and length as an axe will outchop the axe. I think the thing there is that the blade of the kuk is thinner to the spine than an axe is to the eye.Also with regard to the axe vs khuk I think that pound for pound an axe will chop better than a khuk of the same weight with less damage to your shoulder ligaments.
Now, my 3.5 pound monster kuks are outchopped badly by my 36" 3.5 pound axes. At that haft length, there's just so much more leverage and force (due to swinging with my whole body) than can be achieved with a one handed tool.
Agreed, although I liek the larger one's abilities to hande some pretty stout stuff themselves.For me, the beauty of the khuk is it's abiltiy to cut small saplings and other things while still being able to chop decent size stuff.
I found it easier to not try to stop it, I just use the basic safety precaution of making sure no body part is in the way of the followthrough, and I just let gravity power the blade, my arm simply guides it, and I let it follow through on its own.So for me like a 2 lb plus khuk is too heavy. Stopping the momentum of the blade when you cut thru a small branch is just too hard on my shoulder.