18" CAK or 18" Bonecutter?

I've never particularly cared for any CAK I've ever owned.

Now maybe it's just me:foot: but on most of the AK's I've owned the edge is thicker than I like which means less penetration. Also I think the way the blade is angled rather than curved makes it twist more in your grip.

But there is a huge variation in each individual model so the above could just be the examples I've handled.
Like you said, they models by different Kamis are very different. My 20" CAks are all Bura's so that skew my opinion, as he's noted for putting a finer edge on the blade than other kamis. Mine bite, and bite deep, going a little over 4" deep on soft wood and 2.5+ inches on oak.

Also with regard to the axe vs khuk I think that pound for pound an axe will chop better than a khuk of the same weight with less damage to your shoulder ligaments.
From my experience, it's more a length for length comparison. Again, from the ones I own, a kuk of approximately the same weight and length as an axe will outchop the axe. I think the thing there is that the blade of the kuk is thinner to the spine than an axe is to the eye.

Now, my 3.5 pound monster kuks are outchopped badly by my 36" 3.5 pound axes. At that haft length, there's just so much more leverage and force (due to swinging with my whole body) than can be achieved with a one handed tool.

For me, the beauty of the khuk is it's abiltiy to cut small saplings and other things while still being able to chop decent size stuff.
Agreed, although I liek the larger one's abilities to hande some pretty stout stuff themselves.

So for me like a 2 lb plus khuk is too heavy. Stopping the momentum of the blade when you cut thru a small branch is just too hard on my shoulder.
I found it easier to not try to stop it, I just use the basic safety precaution of making sure no body part is in the way of the followthrough, and I just let gravity power the blade, my arm simply guides it, and I let it follow through on its own.
 
I have a Normark made Gerber axe that chops like a dream. Then again, it has fantastic steel and an edge so sharp it's scary. Problem is, I'm a huge fan of Khuks. Plus, I can chop better at arms length with a Khuk than I can with a hatchet. .

I hear you. For me one one of the advantages of a khukuri in chopping is that the way the blade is curved it is really easy to chop on the opposite side of where you are standing. Also where chopping under a log is difficult to impossible with a hatchet depending on how the log is setting it is pretty easy to chop under a log with a khuk.
 
Now, my 3.5 pound monster kuks are outchopped badly by my 36" 3.5 pound axes. At that haft length, there's just so much more leverage and force (due to swinging with my whole body) than can be achieved with a one handed tool.

Yep, the chopping power per weight is a real test of a design's efficiency. Axes put the bulk of the weight as far out as possible... the usually wooden haft isn't nearly as dense as the steel... whereas khuks have steel running down their length. Per weight the axe will win.

However, I personally am terrible at maintaining and replacing axe/hatchet handles, so I use khuks instead. :D Khuks are also a bit better for de-limbing I find... the broader edge makes it easy to sweep branches off.

I DO have an ugly Fiskars felling axe that I keep around, just in case. Haven't needed it yet though! :thumbup:
 
I suck at replacing axe hafts as well. That's why my working axes are $24 Ace hardware specials -- I just buy a new one.

I use Kukris or sometimes tomahawks to do most of my chopping. But felling or bucking large trees (10+" diameter) gets done by axes. And Yes, kuks are MUCH easier to limb with.
 
But felling or bucking large trees (10+" diameter) gets done by axes.

10" diameter doesn't sound that large - I would be tempted to cut them down with the Khukuri just for the fun of it. If we are talking about 2 or more feet diameter then I would jump straight to a chainsaw - it would be way to much work with a Khuk.
 
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