1955 Ford Fairlane Leaf Springs OK for Blades?

S

silverforgestudio

Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
71
Complete newbie here- got the forge, got the anvil, got a few hammers... and have been given the leaf springs from a 1955 Ford... and the coil springs from a 1977 Nova.
- I want to know if the leaf springs are good for blades. I have read that post-1960 cars the springs are cheaper steel... and Ford doesnt really provide a good spec sheet.
- Want to use the coil springs from the Nova for making punches/drifts and chisels- Just can't find a resource for the steels.
-Any help is appreciated and I have lurked for a bit- and gotten a lot of good info- and am trying my hand at it now that I have the equipment!
 
Leaf springs are often made from A2 tool steel, which makes a decent knife steel, but it's not always a sure bet. If you want to have a go at it and just get started then go ahead, but getting some known steel won't set you back very far and then you'll know what you're using
 
Some are 5160 which is decent steel. BUT, recently a member here got a set of springs from an old truck. He was cautious enough to sent a piece in to have it analyzed. It came out with way to little carbon. Good known steel is not that much. Probably ok for punches and the like though.
 
5160 is a great steel. I'm not saying all leaf spring are 5160 because they aren't but, most are good steel for a blade. What I'd do is heat a piece a little past non-magnetic and quench it in oil then see if it can be shattered with a hammer blow or snapped in a vise fairly easily and/or can skate a file on it. If it does, you probably have good steel. Wear safety glasses of course.

Never heard of leaf spring being made from A2...
 
A2 makes a better than decent knife, but I have never heard of it used in leaf springs. It is a higher alloy than most spring steels and is far too expensive to be justified by a manufacturer in that sort of application.
 
I made several nice knives in my early years as a teen out of 50 Chevy Truck leaf springs. Dang tough too! I'd say there is a good possibility the steel you refer to is 5160 steel which makes one heck of a chopper. Go for it.

STR
 
Thanks for the directions folks- I am hoping for 5160- and I have already purchased some 1095 flat bar as well... the free steel is out of a family friends old ride- figure it would be a good piece of nostalgia for his garage... He's also giving me several timing chains from his mustang club so that if and when (and definitely no time soon- I want to learn the basics well first!) I do some damascus they can all get a few little nail-pick blades from their old rides. SO- where do I get the analysis done? Any reccomendations?
 
Dustin- the quench and snap test- I will try that out- do I look for flex before snap or do I want to see the shatter-line clean? I am getting my "ducks in a row" before the steel arrives- I have a series of files- fine or rough tooth? I have seen a chainsaw sharpening file used- should I have a file dedicated to just that purpose? Thanks for the info ahead of time- hopefully pics will ensue and I will evolve... HA!
 
I think that Ed Fowlers book "50$ Knife Shop" states that Honda coil springs are 5160 if I remember correctly. I'll look when I get home but I'm pretty sure thats what he made the knife in the book from.--KV
 
Last edited:
silverforgestudio said:
Dustin- the quench and snap test- I will try that out- do I look for flex before snap or do I want to see the shatter-line clean? I am getting my "ducks in a row" before the steel arrives- I have a series of files- fine or rough tooth? I have seen a chainsaw sharpening file used- should I have a file dedicated to just that purpose? Thanks for the info ahead of time- hopefully pics will ensue and I will evolve... HA!
Click to expand...

It should break like glass. No flex. Either file should not be able to dig into the steel. I'd suggest using a new one or one that isn't too worn.
 
Pick up a copy of the March issue of Blade, I discuss 5160 and 52100 and the variables you will find. Any steel is good to practice with and you can learn from them, but when you get your forging, grinding and heat treating skills developed to the point where you are ready to seek great blades, start with the best steel you can get.

Good luck!
 
Ed Fowler said:
Pick up a copy of the March issue of Blade, I discuss 5160 and 52100 and the variables you will find. Any steel is good to practice with and you can learn from them, but when you get your forging, grinding and heat treating skills developed to the point where you are ready to seek great blades, start with the best steel you can get.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Mr. Fowler speaks the truth. Your first efforts will probably not be show quality, so use whatever you can scrounge. The hammering and heating and filing and the rest of the basic skills are not learned any better on high end knife steels than they are on scrap.
 
White Rabbit said:
Leaf springs are often made from A2 tool steel, which makes a decent knife steel, but it's not always a sure bet. If you want to have a go at it and just get started then go ahead, but getting some known steel won't set you back very far and then you'll know what you're using
Click to expand...

Whomever told you that is talking out of the wrong orifice. 5160 is possible, A2 not even close.

for getting started treat your leaf springs like 5160 is not a bad idea, new known steel is better, it will not have the microfractures that a used leaf spring will

-Page
 
I worked with used steel for years, first springs then ball bearings. Then one day a man that really knows about steel told me - "Nothing good happens to steel being used"!!
I dearly wish I could have met him 30 years sooner.

This single thought would have saved me years of toil - trouble and confusion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top