1st knife in progress... comments please.

I'll expand on Chiro's comments. The better the lighting and the better your set-up [ergonomic] the less the fatigue. Your vise is best positioned on the corner of a bench so you can move around easily.Is the height best for you ? Short guys need a lower bench than tall guys.Can the vise be rotated ?For file work I sometimes jury rig something to hold the work in the vise. For example a horizontal block can be put in the vise and the tang is clamped to that. That's for very comfortable filing. Be creative.There should be good overall lighting in the room plus a work light that can be easily positioned.The light then can be positioned so that it illuminates the bevel so your progress can be seen .It's good that you're just using the file rather than grinder because you need to develop those skills. File and check often.I noticed that you used a black marker for layout .I find that it's often better to use something lighter so I use colored pencils or china markers in red yellow or white. Fatigue is an enemy ,learn your limits. Take breaks.Put it away when you're tired or you will screw it up or injure yourself. BTDT.When working with dangerous tools don't have distractions [wife,kids,pets etc].
 
Thanks fellas, that is some good advice. Mainly, my arms have just been getting tired, and I am actually sitting down while filing. The double cut bastard files I have seem to remove quite a bit of stock, so it goes a lot faster than I expected.

thanks again.

-Dave
 
Well, I filed the bevels and it came out better than I thought it would. It actually looks like a knife. I have been sanding for three hours now, trying to get the file marks out.

The plunge cut worked pretty well by clamping a piece of steel and filing against it to keep a straight line.

Thanks for looking.

-Dave
 

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Dave
When I'm hand sanding, I wrap my sandpaper around a block of micarta (anything else that's solid and flat would work just as well) so that I can keep the bevels flat and put more pressure on the blade. I also wet sand most of the time. It's messy, but seems to be faster. Also, try not to skimp on the sandpaper by using it after it quits cutting aggressively. Using fresh paper all of the time will definitely speed up the process. Keep up the good work. Your blade is gonna be much better than my 1st, or 20th, for that matter! :) :D

Todd
 
Looking real good Dave. Very good advise given you too about using a sanding block, etc.

Put me a little 1/8th inch or so drill hole within about an inch of the end (back) of tang so I'll have something to attach my wire to for lowering into deep cryo.

RL
 
Well, I got all of the file marks out finally... it's down to 320 grit now.

Roger, I'll drill that hole and send the knife to you next week sometime. Thanks a lot for all of your help, the steel, and the heat treat!

-Dave
 

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Dave,

If you have it to 320 grit STOP now. If you have gone finer stop at 400 grit. Any finer than 400 grit will cost you double work. There will be shallow oxydation (oxydization) to sand off after heat treat. Just get it flat and stop at no finer than 400. You'll be okay.

RL
 
Wow, looking great! My first knife is not nearly as well-finished. In fact, after seeing what you've done, I'm now gonna spend some more time on the blade and get it sanded very smoothly. Keep up the good work, it appears you are learning well!
 
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