1st knife project, what's next

308sniper

308sniper

Joined
Jan 6, 2007
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808
Here is my first knife project and I'm looking for help.
done with hand tools and a drill press.
1/4" 1095
8" overall
3 3/4" blade
scales are black and gray laminated birch

From what I have read, the next step would be to heat treat, temper and then put on the final edge. Am I right?
I have the edge filed down to about the thickness of a dime. I is that good?
Heat treating, I'm thinking of building one of those coffee can forges I aslo read on a site that you can put the blank in a pile of red hot coals to get it up to temp. Any suggestions?
One more question, sorry. Is there a way, I know I'm not going to say this right, I can get the top of my main bevel more visable. Now it sort of blends in with the rest of the blade. or is it just not possable with a file?
Thanks for all the help?
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Alright, that's just a cool design. I really like it! And dang, first one....sweet!

1. The edge thickness pre-HT is fine.
2. I'd suggest sending it out for HT just because without good temp gauges you'll have a difficult time getting the proper temp. However, if you want to HT yourself, yes, coffee can will work, watch your steel color up to the proper tone and quench, then clean it off and temper in the oven at the suggested temperature (not sure for 1095), let air cool, temper again, air cool, temper again, then final air cool. Clean up the decarb and finish it.
3. You can enhance your plunge cut (that's what they're called) by filing at less of an angle and take the plunge up higher towards the spine. Use a sweeping motion from the ricasso to the tip along the spine to round out the top of the plunge. The longer the sweep, the more sweep you will get.

Hope this helps.
 
Very cool! What kind of steel did you use?

It looks like you bead blasted it. Looks fitting for that design.
 
Eric,
Thank your for post. Can you please expalin more what you mean by sweeping motion. For some reason i'm just not grasping what you mean. Sorry newbee

For Bjalong the stell is 1095 and I blasted the blade with aluminum oxide
 
I really like this knife, Are you going to put a sweet coating on it, or leave it as is?
 
What I've found is you start your file bite on the flat moving from the edge up towards the spine while at the same time moving to the file to the tip of the knife. Kind of a "wax on" motion but not in full circles, only an arcing motion. It is hard to explain and I'm sorry if I can't be more clear. What it does is pull the metal is a round at the top of the plunge by the spine, giving it a sweeping arc away from the ricasso.

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Ok, thanks, I got that.
And by having the file at a lesser angle and going over the plunge again will make that line more pronounced?
 
I think I understand your question, but I don't have an answer for you. I think you are going for a sabre grind and looking for a crisp transition from the bevel to the flats? I have tried this draw filing, and the transition has ended up washed out every time. Maybe I just suck at draw filing and someone else can chime in with the proper technique. I now only do full flat grinds until I can build a real grinder. I hope someone has some insight. By the way, that knife looks really good.
-Mike
 
Wow Sniper, that looks great...

What type of screws did you use, stand offs?

Your handle texturing looks really good as well, did you use a dremel?
Thanks, John
 
308sniper said:
Ok, thanks, I got that.
And by having the file at a lesser angle and going over the plunge again will make that line more pronounced?
Click to expand...

Depending on your angle and technique, it will make your plunge higher to the spine and more crisp. I think the bead blasting may have "washed" out the crispness a little. Honestly, I like it the way it is, but it has to be to your liking. :D
 
I used common flat head machine screws. the scales I cut, textured, with a file and sanded.
 
Thank You Eric.
I don't mind it now but I do like that crisp line effect. I did seem to get that on the false edge. I think because that plunge is thiner so more of an angle.
 
wow man, you dont need help ha. its interesting to see different first knives. mine were crude looking in the beginning but i had the heat treat down to a science, while some make first knives that look totally pro, but dont have the heat treat down yet. id send it out for heat treat so you have a sort of compass for preformance, then make 100 more knives and perfect heat treating on your own. if you get a forge set up you'll be set to start fooling with heat treat. and imho 5160 is hard to go wrong with for home heat treat. very cool knife, im not partial to the tactical look, but this one does it for me. id love to hold it.
-Lou
 
I have decided to send this out to Peters Heat treating for HT. Just got off the phone with Brad from there and they sound like great people. They do alot of HT for other knife companies.
 
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