1st Knife WIP

[Psyop]

This is my first attempt at making a knife. I am using a Craftsman 2x42. The steel is 1/4 1084 Aldo it was a piece that 1066vik gave me. I read the stickies but they dont talk much about using power tools. Anyway I jumped in and started grinding. I am going for a full convex but I dont know what I am doing. So far Im grinding it sort of like how I would put a conxex on a factory blade. I dont think my distal taper is good and I have no idea how to make a nice line at the ricasso area. What grit belts should I use for the heavy grinding? I have thick skin and Im here to learn. ANY comments or advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Spine

 

[Monofletch]

Looks just fine!! You can send it to me when you're done! It would be an honor!!!!

Keep us posted.

I wish I had the skill (and tools) to give it a try..... I am a mailman for a reason!! LOL!

 

[rasret01]

Looking good, psyop. I've been using the craftsman grinder for over three years now. I glued a piece of flat granet tile to the platen, cut off some of the upper wheel guard and replaced the allen head tracking adjustment bolt with a long bolt and knob, and the machine has served me well. If you concentrate in making your bevel grinds flat from the edge to spine and thin the blade a little more, you'll find a distal taper beginning to happen from the ricasso to the point. Keep going and give us a pic of the finished product.

Dick

 

[james terrio]

Normally I scold people for using such thick stock on their first projects. But since it was given to you by a friend we'll skip that part

You can use a chainsaw file to clean up that plunge line at the ricasso. At this point, I would just stay away from it until you have your bevels pretty close, then clean it up.
I find it faster and easier start full convexes as a series of smaller flat grinds on the platen, each one going a little higher than the last. Ideally you'll end up with a "bevel" that looks sort of faceted; then you can blend them together with the slack portion of the belt.
Never hesitate to pick up a bastard file. It gives you a good deal of control and can really help even things out.
I like 50-grit belts for major stock removal. Once I'm pretty close to final shape I'll move up to finer belts. The important part is to get those deep 50-grit scratches out with a 180 or 220 belt or a second-cut file before worrying too much about getting it really smooth and nice.

 

[Matt Markell]

Lots of good tips on grinding here: https://sites.google.com/site/vorpalcustomknives/shop-techniques-3/grinding-tips

Note that while the page says that you really need a 2x72 grinder, most of the grinding principles will work well on any size grinder. I am using a 4x36 because that's what I have. As long as you don't try and rush your work, it will turn out nicely. As other posters have said, you can always use files to clean up your grinds.

 

[Psyop]

Thanks for the good advice. I was using a red 80 grit belt I pretty much used one up and finished off another that I had been using on wood. I will see about getting some 50 grit belts. I know its thick for a short knife but it might make a good little prybar for me to wear at the FD.