1st WIP: Mini Chopper

S

saltyveins

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Nov 13, 2013
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I know a lot of these get posted, but like many others if I show anyone I see on a regular basis any of my knives, or my designs I will not get any usable feedback.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and reply.

A little back ground.

New hobby, started with handling blanks, made a few knives from a 10" circular saw blade, and now onto my first piece of know steel.

I have a stick of .156" x 1.5" 1084 from Aldo, and have kicked around my first blade being either a skinning knife, a smallish chopper/camp knife, or a hunter/utility knife. I think with the size of my stock a hunter is kind of out, so I drew up a few, and this is what I like best. Let me know where you think I can make some improvements.

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I like your overall design and blade shape. That shape is very useful in many environments.
The one thing I would recommend is that your handle is tall enough. I try to make sure my handles are right around 1" tall. From the looks of your sketch I would say yours is just over 5/8" on average.
I do have large hands and like big handles, but just be sure it is tall enough for you. It is real easy to take steel off, even after it's hard, but it is a lot harder to add it back on after it is gone.
 
Always make a mock up. Just take the profile and cut it out of cardboard to get an idea of how it will feel in hand.
 
Agreed. I think it would be fine if you just drop the bottom of the handle down to make it wider.
 
I think overall it is a good design. If you want to make life way easier for yourself, buy a flexible curve and a French curve set. It will help you achieve clean flowing lines and save a lot of time and pencils and erasers.

My only major critique is to either move the plunge up a bit so you have some more meat at the back, or move the plunge back so it comes all the way out through the choil. That thin section you have at the back of the edge will probably not finish out easily and cleanly, and will be difficult to match on each side.

I agree with the sentiments as far as dropping the bottom line of the handle down to make it taller. Also, make sure you have a smooth curve that flows along the spine, that doesn't mean it can't be a compound curve, but you want it to flow smoothly along its length.

One thing that will help you a lot is to get certain ballpark measurements In your head... .5" to .375" radius for finger grooves, 1" handle height, .75" handle width, etc. You don't have to stick to them all the time, but keeping them in your head will ensure you don't stray too far from normality.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Will make a cardboard mock up and some adj to the handle size.

Ian, thanks for giving me those specs/proportions, will try to keep those in mind.
 
Decided to go ahead and turn this into a WIP...I may be only able to show others what not to do, but my progress will be documented either way.

Started on the bevels...coming along, but still a bit to go. I made a quick file guide to help try to keep my plunges in line....so far it has def helped. Not perfect, and not done, but I have learned a ton, and think I may be able to turn this chunk of steel into a decent knife like shape.

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You can change the title. Edit your first post and change the title at the top.

Knife is looking good so far. I'll definitely be watching this thread.
 
Strigamort said:
You can change the title. Edit your first post and change the title at the top.

Knife is looking good so far. I'll definitely be watching this thread.
Click to expand...

I tried to edit myself, but didn't realize I had to go into the advanced edit to make it work. Got it done now!

Thanks! I will try to remember to keep taking pics as I go.
 
HallHandmade said:
I think overall it is a good design. If you want to make life way easier for yourself, buy a flexible curve and a French curve set. It will help you achieve clean flowing lines and save a lot of time and pencils and erasers.
Click to expand...

I am addicted to my flexible curve, I found the Staples near me sells them with all the engineering/drafting supplies, great tool
 
Absolutely, this. So far I have made only 4 knives using O1 but identical bar stock size. 5/32" x 1 1/2". My second knife I made my handle way to narrow for the the size of the blade and it looks a bit awkward and unbalanced. Feels like you are holding a kitchen knife. Leave 1" for the handle at the very least. I have average size hands, not to big, not to small.

Big Chris said:
I like your overall design and blade shape. That shape is very useful in many environments.
The one thing I would recommend is that your handle is tall enough. I try to make sure my handles are right around 1" tall. From the looks of your sketch I would say yours is just over 5/8" on average.
I do have large hands and like big handles, but just be sure it is tall enough for you. It is real easy to take steel off, even after it's hard, but it is a lot harder to add it back on after it is gone.
Click to expand...
 
Try using Photoshop! I love the line path tool to sketch out knives to scale. Then I print them/cut them and glue or trace them on to the steel. Much more economical and easy to save and replicate identical shapes in the future.

mccandmatt said:
I am addicted to my flexible curve, I found the Staples near me sells them with all the engineering/drafting supplies, great tool
Click to expand...
 
My Photoshop skills are worse than my drawing skills. Sometimes for me old school is best, even though I have a degree in programming, most of the time prefer not to use a computer if I do not need to. Now I do scan my drawings to save them electronically in case I lose my pad lol
 
There is a very nice and easy tutorial on how to make straight and curved lines. It's easier than you think.

mccandmatt said:
My Photoshop skills are worse than my drawing skills. Sometimes for me old school is best, even though I have a degree in programming, most of the time prefer not to use a computer if I do not need to. Now I do scan my drawings to save them electronically in case I lose my pad lol
Click to expand...
 
Almost ready for HT. Since the pic was taken I drilled 2 3/16in pin holes and 3 1/4in weight reduction holes and some 1/4in dimples for additional epoxy.

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Plan to HT soon then after removing scale convex the lower 1/3 of the bevel to bring the edge down to where I want it.
 
Been busy and hadn't had much shop time. Finally got her HT over the weekend...here she is right after quench:


And after some clean up:
 
TheSnakeman said:
very nice!
what did you use to cut out the blank?
Click to expand...

I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut off wheel mostly...and a Dremel with EZLock cut off wheel a little bit. Then 80grit 1x30 Zirc belt to get it close...and 1/2 Round bastard file for the finger groove.
 
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