2/56 & 4/40 machine screws

I would suspect the tubes would be lodged in a tang, then the scales screwed to the tube with countersunk holes for the screwheadand a relief in the back of the scale for a tube stub to extend out into.

At least that's what I'm a'thinking with nothing to base that on... ;)
 
George, get some circuit board standoffs.They come in both sizes listed.If you want then thinner,just ckuck them in the drill press ,or lathe chuck,put a file to them,and turn them down to as thin as needed. - Stacy
 
howiesatwork said:
Then the tubes will be inset into the back side of the slabs, and not set in through holes?
If the head size of the screws is larger than the tubing it will work okay, but of the inserts are larger than the screw heads, it won't.
Unless I'm missing the point here... :confused:
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Howie the tubes are only going on the tang and would be a few thousands smaller, the screws are counter sunk for the head and that size doesn't go all the way thru the slab. The only hole that goes all the way thru is for the threaded stud of the screw.
 
bladsmth said:
George, get some circuit board standoffs.They come in both sizes listed.If you want then thinner,just ckuck them in the drill press ,or lathe chuck,put a file to them,and turn them down to as thin as needed. - Stacy
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Stacy: Who has them Radio Shack????
 
Yes,or any electronics supplier.You could open up some old radios/computers/etc. that you have in your junk pile and may find what you need,too.I'll look around and see if I can find my box of standoffs.I used to use lots of them in my old radar days.There is an insert that is made to be pressed into a hole in plastic or metal.It looks like a round nut with a knurled rim .Now that I think of it,I bet you could chuck a nut on a bolt and turn it down to fit your hole real easily! -SA
 
IG use folder pivit pins it's what I use and we are using on the colb knife.
collaboration2.JPG
 
indian george said:
No!!! That's GrassHoppa's job. :D
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hey if you get your snow shoes on you can go out to the smity and crank it up and melt the snow out
AND GET TO WORK :D
 
Kit Carson said:
OK, I see that now. Thanks, Howie. Yea, they are.

IG, why don't you just tap the tang?
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Kit,on a full tang fixed blade how would it work tapping the tang and using screws? Could you explained how this is done? I'd like to try this instead of pinning. Thanks.
Scott
 
Razorback - Knives said:
Kit,on a full tang fixed blade how would it work tapping the tang and using screws? Could you explained how this is done? I'd like to try this instead of pinning. Thanks.
Scott
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me me me let me .. Kit :D
drill and tap through the tang use the same hole for boyth sides
cut your screws down so they never go past half way through the tang

did I do good here?? :D
 
Dan Gray said:
me me me let me .. Kit :D
drill and tap through the tang use the same hole for boyth sides
cut your screws down so they never go past half way through the tang

did I do good here?? :D
Click to expand...
I thought as much, but wasn't sure. Sounds simple enough. Any particular types of screws you would recommend? Thanks Dan
Scott
 
nope
any that fits yur fancy

just stay a way from the 1/2"x11 screws
they'll mess up an otherwise good day :p :)
 
Dan, you done good:)

Back to the old rule. When tapping the tang, it only takes 3 threads to get a solid connection. 4-40 has 40 tpi. On a 1/4" thick tang that would be 10 threads. 5 on each side. Even on 3/16" you would get plenty of thread. With 2x56 you can go down to 1/8" thick tangs.
The other way is to use standoffs like IG is talking about. With them you can counterbore the inside of the handle pieces and put a longer standoff in. Running the screws in from each side.
Tapered tangs can be tricky, depending on how much taper, but can still be done, especially with standoffs.
For a decent sized fixed blade, 6x40 is a good choice.
 
Thanks guys. ;) Kit are you saying to tap from each side or can you tap all the way through from one side?
Scott
 
Scott,
Straight thru. Only difference is when you drill the tapered one you gotta pick up the rear part to get it level with the centerline. Like I said earlier, the tapered ones can be tricky.
 
Kit Carson said:
Dan, you done good:)

Back to the old rule. When tapping the tang, it only takes 3 threads to get a solid connection. 4-40 has 40 tpi. On a 1/4" thick tang that would be 10 threads. 5 on each side. Even on 3/16" you would get plenty of thread. With 2x56 you can go down to 1/8" thick tangs.
The other way is to use standoffs like IG is talking about. With them you can counterbore the inside of the handle pieces and put a longer standoff in. Running the screws in from each side.
Tapered tangs can be tricky, depending on how much taper, but can still be done, especially with standoffs.
For a decent sized fixed blade, 6x40 is a good choice.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you typed that out and not me kit I'd have been here all day :)
I short vertions are mine :D
 
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