2 Dot 112 Tip Question

m.and

m.and

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
1,590
Hi all,

I recently acquired a NIB 2 Dot 112 and I have a few questions for some of the more knowledgeable members about the actual condition of it. When I initially inspected it I thought the tip looked a little strange compared to other 112's I've seen; almost more rounded off and less pointy. The other thing I noticed is the the majority of the blade is hollow ground, but the tip appears to be convex or flat ground. The only similar knife I have to compare it to is my 422 Bucklite. It definitely has a pointier blade profile and longer swedge, but the overall blade length is the same.

I know that a knife of this era was still mostly hand-made and therefore one should expect differences in machining from sample to sample, but I just want to make sure I got what I paid for and not a damaged knife that has been repaired.

I apologize if I'm obsessing over this too much.

Best,
Matthew

Pics of the blade profile and edge.





Picture showing the hollow ground blade and convex ground tip area.


Picture of how the tip sits in the handle.
 
Thanks for the reply Badhammer. I'm working on a collection of like new Buck knives manufactured around my birth year (1978) and just want to make sure I got a good sample.
 
m., the tip on that era model is convex as well as the secondary edge bevel. That's the manner they were ground. It does not look reshaped to me. What does the blade measure? DM
 
David,

I thought I had read somewhere that the edge bevel on the 440C blades from the 70's were convex ground, just didn't know about the tip. Thanks for confirming. The blade (depending on where i measure from) is right at 3 inches. Same length as my 422. I think the shorter swedge just makes it look a little stubbier than what I'm used to.

I may never end up using this knife, but what is the best method to maintain the convex edge on these older Bucks? I currently use a Sharpmaker on my newer Bucks (Edge 2000 grind) and it gets the job done.

Best,
Matthew
 
If anyone ever goes by the Spokane,WA area plan to stop at the Buck Factory, on a weekday and middle of the day and take a factory tour. You will be provided with ear phones because of the noise and a guide will walk you thru the factory explaining what you are seeing through the earphones.
The finishing of the 110/112 is done by hand, by a human, which means you may see a bevel or taper you think is slightly off. They have finished thousands but 'differences' happen. Only experienced knife craftspersons do this. The photos above looks normal to the 2 dot I have.
I was a hot 112 collector for a while but got over it and am down to a early model or special scale half dozen .

300Bucks
 
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Old or new, fixed blade or folder. I've always been impressed with the fit and finish of Buck USA knives. Especially for the price point.

I hope to some day have the opportunity to tour the Buck factory.
 
m.and said:
David,
I may never end up using this knife, but what is the best method to maintain the convex edge on these older Bucks? I currently use a Sharpmaker on my newer Bucks (Edge 2000 grind) and it gets the job done.
Best,
Matthew
Click to expand...
I'd be careful using a Sharpmaker on those era knives. You don't want to grind off that bevel. Do you have a strop loaded with slurry/ grit. That would keep it tuned. DM
 
Gorgeous. Had one of those but wore the blade down through over-sharpening -- didn't have diamond hones back then. Yours is a keeper, for sure.
 
Most of my photo's don't show the curvature of the grind (sort of disappears in the pictures) - but this well used two-dot Buck 112, from the same era as yours, shows the grind to be very similar on the blade and at the tip. OH

IMG_64021.JPG
 
Thanks for the picture Old Hunter. I always love your "in-use" shots.
 
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