2 Dot Buck 110

:cool:...Those old block sided 110's are tremendous knives. Built like a tank is no understatement at all. The 440C blades are second to none IMHO as well...That one could easily be made to look almost like new. I'd keep that blade...Nice find Hawkeye...:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Nice knife!

I sure love that four dot finger groove I just got. I feel nekkid without it. I may have to get another at the next gun show. I know a guy wot has a supply but he is pricey. I plan to get his 25th Anniversary Knife - it's been used and that's fine with me. I prefer them used.

BJ
 
Thanks guys. I becoming a 110 guy.Boy...................:D
Darrell what should I use on the brass to get the scratches off?
Hawkeye
 
Hawkeye5 said:
Thanks guys. I becoming a 110 guy.Boy...................:D
Darrell what should I use on the brass to get the scratches off?
Hawkeye
Click to expand...

Better not go there Hawk, he is gonna have you sandin and a polishin for a few hours :eek:

But you will love the results... :thumbup::D
 
Pack Rat said:
Better not go there Hawk, he is gonna have you sandin and a polishin for a few hours :eek:

But you will love the results... :thumbup::D
Click to expand...

:cool:...Thanks rodent...I was about to get out my podium and reference materials...LMBO...:D...( sanding with 300, 600, 1200 and 2000 grit wet/dry and buffing with white rouge on a buffer will do it )...and I ain't even gotten to the "good parts" yet...:p
 
If I may add,,,, Get a piece of 1x2 about 16 to 18 inches long. Glue about a 2 inch piece of the various grits on it. But sand it first so the sandpaper won't take on the "wave" of the grain of the 1x2. Write on the edge of the 1x2 what grit it is.

Lay the wood strip down and keep the bolsters flat on the board so I don't "cup" the brass like I would using a piece of sand paper in hand.

I do work the curves with sandpaper in hand as I tend to get flat spots when I tried working the curves on the board.

I started with 320 on the end, then 600, 800, and 1,000. And since I do it sitting here at the couple of desks, I just use brasso to polish it up after I get it like I want it, or just tired of messing with it.

Brasso on a rough cloth (old towel) will leave very fine scratches its self.
So for the final light no scratch polishing, cotton balls or some very soft cloth with a light touch and same direction strokes. Yeah, I am now talking about fine scratching that it almost takes a magnifier or loupe to see them with.

If you can still see fine scratches with the naked eye, you aren't there yet.

See,,,told ya not to go there :)

Sirusly tho.... restoring a beaten up 110/112 is a lot of fun. But then you have to ask yourself, is it really worth removing the "character" of an old user. Other than maybe just a polishing.

I have enough old beaters that I have done it just to see if I could. Thanks to Dr. D and Trax and some of the others motivational lessons. Results are amazing.

Take before and after pics!! You will abuse yourself mentally, afterwards, if you don't.

now returning the podium (tide soap box) back to Dr. D

ps: Stay back away from the raised scale pins. Sanding those flat is a dead giveaway that a knife has been worked.
 
Yeah...too cool for school Jeff!
I really like those squared bolster 110 knives too!!!

Is the tip intact or you just cut it off in the pic?
Share more pics after you clean it up...but it looks great to me right as it is now. :)
 
Buckaholic said:
Yeah...too cool for school Jeff!
I really like those squared bolster 110 knives too!!!

Is the tip intact or you just cut it off in the pic?
Share more pics after you clean it up...but it looks great to me right as it is now. :)
Click to expand...

No, The tip is good.The picture taker is broken.:eek:
 
Pack Rat said:
If I may add,,,, Get a piece of 1x2 about 16 to 18 inches long. Glue about a 2 inch piece of the various grits on it. But sand it first so the sandpaper won't take on the "wave" of the grain of the 1x2. Write on the edge of the 1x2 what grit it is.

Lay the wood strip down and keep the bolsters flat on the board so I don't "cup" the brass like I would using a piece of sand paper in hand.

I do work the curves with sandpaper in hand as I tend to get flat spots when I tried working the curves on the board.

I started with 320 on the end, then 600, 800, and 1,000. And since I do it sitting here at the couple of desks, I just use brasso to polish it up after I get it like I want it, or just tired of messing with it.

Brasso on a rough cloth (old towel) will leave very fine scratches its self.
So for the final light no scratch polishing, cotton balls or some very soft cloth with a light touch and same direction strokes. Yeah, I am now talking about fine scratching that it almost takes a magnifier or loupe to see them with.

If you can still see fine scratches with the naked eye, you aren't there yet.

See,,,told ya not to go there :)

Sirusly tho.... restoring a beaten up 110/112 is a lot of fun. But then you have to ask yourself, is it really worth removing the "character" of an old user. Other than maybe just a polishing.

I have enough old beaters that I have done it just to see if I could. Thanks to Dr. D and Trax and some of the others motivational lessons. Results are amazing.

Take before and after pics!! You will abuse yourself mentally, afterwards, if you don't.

now returning the podium (tide soap box) back to Dr. D

ps: Stay back away from the raised scale pins. Sanding those flat is a dead giveaway that a knife has been worked.
Click to expand...
Larry, thank you for that very informative post.I did need the help.I got some 400 and 600 grit will have to go somewhere for the 800 and 1000.But this will get me started.
 
:cool:...Lookin' good Hawkeye...The results will be worth the cussin' and elbow grease...:p...:thumbup:
 
I might add, if I may, that any real deep scratches are charactor scratches and I feel like a few of those don't detract at all. I have a Three Dot 110 that is really cut up on one side and near new on the other. Only explanation I ever offer is, "musta been in a motorcycle wreck and I bet the guy looked a lot worse!" I do use rouge and buffing wheel to clean'em up, but vintage needs to look vintage, but shinny vintage. Jack
 
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