#2 knife design-any changes jump out at you?

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DukeHarley

Joined
Apr 11, 2014
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Ok here is what I've come up with for a second design. Are they any no-nos that jump out at you guys? I want a basic heavy duty hunter that is a decent skinner. What thickness should I go with in 1084 or O1.....1/8 or 3/16 for the purposes described? I have some D-2 but don't think I'm ready for that steel yet being that I want to work on self heat treating. I can use either O1 or 1084.....any reason why I should use one of these over the other? Probably going to go with micarta (green or burg) linen or paper scales.

Any things I should look at changing. Does the overall size look to big and how about the choil....too deep?

Thanks in advance guys!!!!

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not bad, you have taste and a good eye for the curves, nice project...one hint: the pins/bolts in the finished piece (3d) tend to appears lower even if you drilled in the precise centerline, drill a little up vs the spine to make up for this effect.
Consider avoiding that small angled bit of scale near the choil/ricasso... the lead pencil line you erased in that zone is better both for comfort and protection of the scale from bumps.
1084 shoul be way easier as first ht approach, o1 needs precise temperature control.
 
So move the pins a bit more towards the spine? Like .125" further up? Also have the scale come down more towards the top of the choil?

Jay
 
Outstanding design... go with the 1084 for sure. I'd use .125" for a Hunter. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Looks great :) ... and no, don't move the pins an entire 1/8" up towards the spine, that's a bit to much, I believe raising them between 1 mm and 1/16" ( or about 1.5 mm) should be fine. I've never really measured how much higher I go, I just eyeball it cause I'm able to see it pretty well on paper now whether or not it looks right now (most the time at least), but it is true that dead center looks low on the final handle.

One thing that stands out to me just a little bit is the " finger choil area" or the area where the handle curves to meet the ricasso where your index finger will go, I'd say make the curve extend a little further back the bottom of the handle so you figure doesn't feel crammed in that area, and take just a little bit of fat of the belly off the bottom of the handle. I'm sure it will feel better in the hand and IMHO (to my eye) will look better. Other than those tiny adjustments it looks like a great design for a second knife! Great job :thumbup: :)

-Paul
www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed
 
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If you're going to taper the tang, use 3/16. If you're not, use 1/8. Design looks good. Be sure and make the handle thin enough side to side. Nothing says "second knife" like a big fat squarish or broomstick handle.
 
Things that jump out to my eye:
As mentioned, the pin placement is a tad low and will throw off the finished aesthetics. The handle height appears to be nearly an 1 1/8" according to your scale. In my opinion that's a wee bit tall/fat for a knife of that size. Also if it were me, I would increase the diameter used on the front curve of the handle to make for a smoother transition there. It's easier to finish out and I've found it's actually more comfortable in use that way. I design for at least an 1 1/2" diameter curve in the choil area of the handle now. I think it looks better aesthetically as well.
 
Ok I'll make some changes and repost a pic. Thanks guys!!! The belly of the handle and the choil area as you can see from the multiple erasing marks show these were problem areas for me so the critiques are well justified.

Give me a day or so an ill be back with an improved drawing.

Jay
 
I agree with the others. The handle is too fat. Once it is re-drawn with less belly it should be very nice.

As said the optics of a handle may sometimes make the pins look lower than they are. In cases where there is a lot of shaping to the handle bottom, I place the pins with the bottom of the pin hole resting on the centerline. The knife you have drawn has a symmetrical handle, and is fine with them exactly in the center as you have them.
 
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