#2 Mora question

bdws1975

bdws1975

Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
3,721
Hi all,

I just got a #2 mora with 4 inch blade and really like it. here are some questions:

1. how is the blade seated in the handle?
2. How sturdy is it's construction? will it last a long time, with no pins in the handle and blade.
3. What kind of abuse will it take? batoning, splitting wood, etc?

Thank you!
brett
 
They are not hard use knives by any means. Mostly to be used for minimal bushcraft endeavors. The Construction is very sturdy.
 
It's a full stick tang.

They can be used harder than one might think, but I would never classify one as a "hard use knife".

It will last a very long time if used as a knife should be. To cut.
 
tarmix101 said:
It's a full stick tang.

They can be used harder than one might think, but I would never classify one as a "hard use knife".

It will last a very long time if used as a knife should be. To cut.
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Thanks Tarmix. How do they secure the knife. This is probably a very stupid question, but I just can't see how the blade stays in the handle.

thanks!
Brett
 
1.They are constructed using a "hidden tang". I am not sure if they are epoxied in or just pressed in, as I have not taken one apart to look at it's construction. I can tell you that the epoxy used today will result in the destruction of the handle before the blade comes out. pins are just insurance.
2. remember it's a 9.00 dollar knife, however they are made much better than 9.00 knives from asia by far.
3. as far as abuse, this is more of a utility knife than a main carry knife. You would use this knife for more "delicate" tasks, such as shaving tinder. There was a thread in this forum a few days ago about a test of a mora and it did take a lot of abuse before the handle seperated from the blade.
 
charlieridge said:
1.They are constructed using a "hidden tang". I am not sure if they are epoxied in or just pressed in, as I have not taken one apart to look at it's construction. I can tell you that the epoxy used today will result in the destruction of the handle before the blade comes out. pins are just insurance.
2. remember it's a 9.00 dollar knife, however they are made much better than 9.00 knives from asia by far.
3. as far as abuse, this is more of a utility knife than a main carry knife. You would use this knife for more "delicate" tasks, such as shaving tinder. There was a thread in this forum a few days ago about a test of a mora and it did take a lot of abuse before the handle seperated from the blade.
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Thank you very much. I certainly realize it's an inexpensive knife, just thought I would see what the upper limit is.

I used my this afternoon to clean 20 jalepenos and 3 lbs of beef. It worked like a charm.

brett
 
Do you have a pic? I think I know which one you are talking about, but I'm not certain. It has a wooden handle?

Andy
 
charlieridge said:
1.They are constructed using a "hidden tang". I am not sure if they are epoxied in or just pressed in, as I have not taken one apart to look at it's construction. I can tell you that the epoxy used today will result in the destruction of the handle before the blade comes out. pins are just insurance.QUOTE]

They are epoxied in. I took my #2 apart, and there was epoxy there. Not a huge amount mind you, but there.
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I can not see why anyone would ever need or want to baton with a four inch light weight blade. However you will NEVER hurt that knife using it a s a four inch blade knife should be used, that being cutting and wood carving or whittling. Also I use mine a lot for field dressing big game and food prep.
 
udtjim said:
I can not see why anyone would ever need or want to baton with a four inch light weight blade. However you will NEVER hurt that knife using it a s a four inch blade knife should be used, that being cutting and wood carving or whittling. Also I use mine a lot for field dressing big game and food prep.
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cool. I wouldn't reallly use it for batoning either, just curious as I don't have any experience with the moras.

Have you had the blade come loose at all?

What's your favorite mora? I have 4 coming:

760
780
746
orange clipper


Should be fun!
 
The #1 and #2 Eriksson Mora knives have tangs that run
about 3/4 of the way through the handle and are secured
with epoxy. All of the other wood handled Moras have
through tangs secured with a collar at the end of the
tang. (This includes the Frosts #2 of the same size.)
The epoxied handle is probably stronger than the through
tang. The through tang requires some clearance, and this
allows vibration when batoning. One Canadian user who
does a lot of bataning reported that his #22 came apart
after a year or so, but after reassembling with epoxy he
has had no further problems.
Still, batoning is abusive. A lot depends on how you do
it. The blade should be driven straight, and the baton
applied directly opposite the branch being cut.

Best regards,
R

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“A knifeless man is a lifeless man>” –Old Nordic proverb
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hey, thanks for the great info. Is this ragnar from ragweedforge?--N EVERMIND, I looked at your homepage.

I appreciate the info. What the most popular mora, in your experience?

brett

Ragnar said:
The #1 and #2 Eriksson Mora knives have tangs that run
about 3/4 of the way through the handle and are secured
with epoxy. All of the other wood handled Moras have
through tangs secured with a collar at the end of the
tang. (This includes the Frosts #2 of the same size.)
The epoxied handle is probably stronger than the through
tang. The through tang requires some clearance, and this
allows vibration when batoning. One Canadian user who
does a lot of bataning reported that his #22 came apart
after a year or so, but after reassembling with epoxy he
has had no further problems.
Still, batoning is abusive. A lot depends on how you do
it. The blade should be driven straight, and the baton
applied directly opposite the branch being cut.

Best regards,
R

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
“A knifeless man is a lifeless man>” –Old Nordic proverb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
 
Ragnar, love your site! Best selection of Moras i've ever seen!
Any chance you'll get those Helle Laminated carbon steel Tollekniv kit-blades in stock soon?
I've been specifically waiting for those to be back in stock before i make an order.
You can answer via email if posting a reply breaks any forum selling rules. Thanks!
:)
 
My favorite mora... so far is the 780, so far has proven to be a great blade, I have several other models but the 760-780 fits my hand well and works for me. And as others have said the wood handled ones are tougher than they look, not hard use tools, but with sensible use you'll get more than your $10 out of it imho
 
i have a frosts #1, with a through tang with the collar at the end of the tang, but with the plain wood handle instead of the painted one.

i have used it for lots of woodshaving, including taking off pretty large chunks of wood.

yesterday i used it for some light batoning, just little stuff. it handled it fine, but i would still be hesitant to baton anything big. as a general rule, for my harder use knives, i try to avoid batoning wood larger in diameter than half the length of the blade. that makes sure that i have room on the blade to smash with the baton, and it means i don't have to worry too too much about overloading the blade.
 
Hi again,

Thanks for the kind words!
I don’t have solid numbers of sales for different Mora knives, although
I probably should. The 510 is very popular, probably a result of a
Field and Stream article a few years ago. The #1 is a close second.
In the Frosts line it’s mostly the 780/760MG and 840/860.
It’s not clear to me that the wood handles are much, if any, more fragile
than the plastic handles. I’m still trying to wear out a wood handled Mora I got
about 50 years ago. I use it every day. It takes and holds about as good an
edge as any knife I can buy or make. I guess I’m just old fashioned. I like
the look and feel of wood for a knife handle.
On the other hand I don’t normally baton a knife. Especially if you
are striking the blade forward of the contact point it will generate a lot
of stress and vibration. This can actually break the tang, I’ve seen
this on knives that cost a lot more than the Moras.
I’m taking advantage of the postal holiday to visit the Forum. I may
not get back for a while. If anybody has other questions please drop
me an email.

Best regards,
R
 
Thanks so much for your information!

I really like the #2 red wood handled mora so far. It holds a great edge and is solid in my hand.

Thanks and take care!

Brett
 
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