2 questions about stabilized scales

WaltE99

WaltE99

Fickle Bastard Blades
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
179
1. I have a knife with figured maple handle scales that have been stabilized. I didn't particularly like the color once the handle was finished so I have put several coats of Tru Oil on it and it really improved the appearance. This is a prototype knife I'm giving to my son to test so not selling it. My question is whether I should expect problems down the road with this treatment? Finish flaking or rubbing off or whatever else. I asked TurnTex but haven't gotten a reply. What do you think.

2. I stabilized 2 pieces of antler for scales and I guess I should have wiped them off better before curing because now I have places with excess stabilizing material on the outside of the scales. Is there anything or process that will get this off? I have already tried acetone, alcohol, and mineral spirits without any luck.

Thanks for any help you can give!

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If the stabilization on the maple was successful I would sand to at least 800 grit then hit with a buffing wheel and white buffing compound. The grain will pop then.
 
Thanks and tried that.Went to 1000 grit. When I hit it with the compound it gave it kind of a grayish tint. Maybe I should have used a clean buff...I have used that one to polish blades. Anyway, I have already done it and just wonder what to expect. It did bring out a really warm, goldish color.

You did say "if the stabilization was successful"...how would you know if it is or isn't successful?

Thanks again.

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On the stabilization excess on the antler scales, it is probably best to just sand off the excess stabilization material, and then finish the scales. On the maple scales a Tru Oil finish is good to go if you let it dry sufficiently, probably about 5 days in a dry environment after the last coat--I haven't had any issues with a Tru Oil finish over time myself--or any of my customers over a long period of time, on gunstocks and knife scales.

Good luck to you with both!
 
Thanks. I was thinking about using a Scotch Brite belt to at least knock off the rough parts. This one is also a prototype small skinner for my son to test out and hunting season is just around the corner here in SC.

Good to hear that TruOil can be used over stabilization. It really brought out the color. I will probably try a buff with no compound next time.

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Buffing wheels MUST be kept separate, never use a wheel that's been used on metal on wood, always use the same compound on same buff wheel. Also, compound tends to get in the pores of wood and dull finish.
 
Buffing wheels MUST be kept separate, never use a wheel that's been used on metal on wood, always use the same compound on same buff wheel. Also, compound tends to get in the pores of wood and dull finish.

I use a gallon zip bag for each separate buff wheel, and mark on bag what that wheel's been used for.
 
I guess this is where I think youll see the difference between home 'stabilized' and professionally done. If wood was properly stabilized, nothing should penetrate the grain so oil is a waste of time and shouldnt have any lasting effect. Itll polish like a new penny without adding any kind of oil/laquer
 
I've found some K&G stabilized wood that takes a finish very nicely with no other finish such as tru-oil applied. BUT - I've also found some a coat of tru-oil to make the wood really "pop". You'll also find some K&G (and WSSI) stabilized woods with small voids, and small pores that benefit from a coat of CA to fill. Then sand CA off completely leaving bare wood with just the pores or voids filled.
 
Ken H> said:
I've found some K&G stabilized wood that takes a finish very nicely with no other finish such as tru-oil applied. BUT - I've also found some a coat of tru-oil to make the wood really "pop". You'll also find some K&G (and WSSI) stabilized woods with small voids, and small pores that benefit from a coat of CA to fill. Then sand CA off completely leaving bare wood with just the pores or voids filled.
Click to expand...
+1 with me.
 
Thanks everyone. About buffs, I do not use multiple compounds on the same buff. However, I have used the same buff on wood that has also been used on metal so I won't do that anymore. The first knife I did with maple was buffed with a white compound buff and it turned it sort of gray. The 2nd knife I used a plain buff (no compound) and didn't get the gray color so it wasn' t bad. Boy did the color pop after putting the oil on, though.

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