2 Ton Epoxy question

What was the surface of the oak pieces like, sometimes when planed oak surface does kind of close up and that makes gluing difficult. Sanding, wiping and vacuming is what I usually use with dense wood.

TLM
 
No one mentioned cleaning????

I have used acetone for cleaning every thing I epoxy or glue for years. 5 Min, 2 ton, JB Weld and stupid glue. I wear disposable gloves when cleaning and assembling, keeps any skin oils off the parts and epoxy off of me.

Had to take the poly-pearl scales off some 440-C, the scales and the full tang were roughed up with a die grinder (not near the edges), two 5/32" NS pins, cleaned every thing with acetone, EQUAL amounts of 2 ton resin and hardner, mix slowly and try not to stir in air bubbles, let it set clamped for two days at room temp. Ended up wacking it off with a hammer, the poly broke up into 5-6 pieces per side and I still had to pry off the smaller ones.
 
Hi TLM, this is DaQo'tah

Perhaps I didnt write down what Im doing correctly, but I ment to write that this is a hidden tang knife.

The one block of oak is drilled out,,,and then glue is poured down into the drilled out hole,,,then the tang is jammed down into the hole and glue.

Although I do scratch up the steel of the tang, and next time I will make some cuts into the tang to give a glue a foothold...I cant do anything with the wood except drill it as best i can.

I believe the answer to the problem that happend was-

1- the room where I set the glued handle to dry was unheated , and it was on the floor of my basement.

2- I didnt waite long enough before I took off the handle (In this case thats good as the handle needed to be removed) , but from now on, I will waite a bit longer before I play with the knife.
 
Hi Polock
this is DaQo'tah

I read your post, and it got me thinking about something that I tried and failed at, yet have been thinking over why I failed...

Last year, I had a blade of a 52100 steel knife all heat treated and tempered and finished sanding and buffing on.

I next wanted to place a handle on it,,I drilled out the oak for the hidden tang, when I read some posts on Blade Forum about adding some brass pins to a hidden tang handle.

They said to place the handle into position over the tang, then drill into the wood on one side untill you bump into the steel. You try to drill into the steel just a little bit , just enough to make a mark. Then slide off the wood handle and drill into the steel at the place you just marked.

Well...I decided to try this,,,I drilled the wood just fine down to the steel and left the mark. I then took off the handle and tried to drill out the steel.

NO GOOD,,,,It would not drill at all,,,The steel was rock hard,,,It burned all my drill bits up,,,

Now,as I had already drilled the oak handle 1/2 the way, it had to be tossed out when I gave up.


But,,,,,what if I had used my new torch, and heated the steel up where I wanted the pin to go untill it was red,,,red,red RED hot, then ran to the drill press and tried to drill it?

what would have happend?
 
Hi nhamilto40 this is DaQo'tah

I have been going over the information you posted here...I have writen down your advice for a different glue to use. (Devcon 10 min)

I will be going to the stores today to look around for it.

I only have one lumber yard and Walmart to check at. I hate looking for glue,,,,all the things got names like - Sport Glue..or Sportman's glue. or Hobyist glue, or one min glue/2 min glue , and 5 min glue. all this and yet I dont have a clue what one to use with a knife handle. And when you read the back of the package, it seems all share the same package too.
 
The epoxy is DEVCON 2TON, any Wal Mart has it. It is mixed 50/50, that's equal parts of each tube, if you buy it in that type of containers.
After your handle hole is drilled, and the tang fits, use a 1/16" drill bit, and drill an angled hole in the underside of your handle, at the rearmost place that the tang hole reaches. Angle it to the rear at a 45 degree angle. In other words, the hole will angle from the rear, towards the front. This will allow air to escape when pouring epoxy down the tang hole. As the epoxy starts to ooze out, put your finger over it, for the moment. Insert the tang, you can let off the hole for a second or so, to make sure any trapped air is forced out. Once the tang is totally inserted, put a piece of tape over the hole. You can use duct tape, masking tape, electrical tape, the 10mil electrical tape is the best if you use that type. Don't use friction tape, it will not hold well.
Now, assuming you have done your part, and the tang, and the inside of the handle was cleaned with acetone, and you notched it correctly, alternating 3/16" notches on the tang edges. Make sure they are no more than 3/16",and you do all this in an area that is at least 70 degrees, then it will hold great. Do not store your epoxy in the shop, ever. Store it in the house, away from extremes of temperature.
Out of curiosity, why are you using Oak for the handles? Well figured woods of all varietys are fairly inexpensive.:eek:
 
Hi Mike, this is DaQo'tah

I know, I know,,,,I got to start making handle out of a better wood...

Im so cheap, and the oak was only $5.00 for a 5 foot long 2X4

could you tell me what you would try first?

I know that there are lots of things that come in blocks,,,I need an idea .

When I try to pick out a new wood , all the names seem the same, I need advice. I need a cheap wood thats the next step up from my oak handles.


I started in oak due to the fact that I made a early knife handle out of a oak tree limb from my late father's backyard. and I just stayed with oak.

But Im in the market for ideas!
 
I used to sell epoxy resins and adhesives, in the ten years I listened to various explanations and complaints: reason 1 (90%), wrong mix ratio; all others (10%)in order, not enough waiting, too cold, dirty surfaces, chemical incompatibility.

For your application I would use a fairly flexible epoxy, you get more impact tolerance. The harder the adherents the harder adhesive you can use without problems. The tang must be cleaned also, light sandblasting is a good way, if you want it to be stable in wet conditions phosphatizing helps a lot.

TLM
 
Try using a long nail, bend the point over at 90 degrees, file it sharp and make sure it will fit down the hole in the scale. now cut the head off, chuck it in a drill and make some grooves inside the hole at a few different depths, put some diagonal grooves on the tang about the same places. Use a long thin stick or wire to put the epoxy in the hole. this will allow you to work out air bubbles and spread it out thinly. If your hole and tang are a close fit, you don't need much, use the nail to get the epoxy in your groves and put some on the tang groves also. Clamp it up and clean up what squezes out right now, I use acetone. This should "lock" in the blade for you.
 
TLM's advice is right on the money. If you can't find devcon's full product line locally try the "distributer locater" feature on their site.

As for handle wood try the most compleat selection I know of at lumberlady or try exodic wood and rockler . I suggest maple, cherry, walnut, butternut, ebony, bloodwood, cocobola, purpleheart and wenge. Ebony and cocobola are my personal favorites. Oak is really too course and open grained for fine finish work. Most of these woods are quite expensive but it only takes a small chunk for a knife handle.
 
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