20 inch Ang Khola just arrived - waow!

snowwolf

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
1,975
Hello,

This is my first HI Khukri... Probably not the last.

Quick question thought. There is this mark on top of the bolster
AngKholaBolster-vi.jpg


It seams to sink pretty deep in the brass. Is this just a cosmetic issue like a birth mark or can it affect the performance of the handle?

Thank you,
 
That's normal, it's where the brass was soldered into a tube shape to fit the handle.
 
Thank you for the quick response.

The closest thing I had to this was a Cold-Steel and a Ka-Bar. Both industrial, mass produce tools with no soul at all.

That monster hand made Ang Khola is a magnificent piece of work for the price. I'm sold forever and will recommend HI to anyone in the market for these kinds of blades. I love the little imperfections which make it special and unique. You can feel the Kami's work when holding the blade.

But 20 inch and close to 4 pounds is more blade than I can handle. I'm going to add something smaller and practical soon.
 
20" AK! 4# Cool! Ive been waiting for HI to get them in. Pics would be very cool! I want one of them beasts!
 
Sorry for poor quality - taken from the phone.

With my good old Buck 112 for size comparison

20incAngKholavsBuck112-vi.jpg
 
I have AKs and I have 20" khuks, but I've never had a massive 20" AK. I might need to rectify that thanks 5o your pics;)

Congrats and welcome to the fold:)
 
Interesting thing i've noticed: The Kamis braze steel and solder brass? Is it a Kami preference? Probably good reason but I do know brazed brass would make this seam invisible as would soldered steel. I know they braze because ive seen it on KLVUKS and other "white metal" bolsters.
If Ron dont mind im going to borrow your photo:thumbup: THX
011f1923eafcd8e314ddc01dd56c903dbd0dfca53e_zps3af08925.jpg


Hello,

This is my first HI Khukri... Probably not the last.

Quick question thought. There is this mark on top of the bolster
AngKholaBolster-vi.jpg


It seams to sink pretty deep in the brass. Is this just a cosmetic issue like a birth mark or can it affect the performance of the handle?

Thank you,
Doesnt bother me at all...just curious?
 
Maybe I should post this one in another thread....

This massive AK has a lot of steel, I was curious about the temper and how the Kamis managed to quenched it.

So I did a nasty thing... A blade to blade test against SK5 which will range from 58 to 65 RC.
Left SK5, Right Ang Khola. I don't know about the rest of the blade but the area I used (1cm away from the notch) was significanly softer than the SK5. Both pictures are looking at the same thing under different light.

SK5vsAngKhola01-vi.jpg

SK5vsAngKhola02-vi.jpg


Don't get me wrong, this is with supermacro. The dents are very small. I didn't ruin this art piece. But the result is rather interesting and doesn't surprise me.

What is the supposed to be RC on these AK? My guess is low 50's
 
Last edited:
What part of the AK blade did you test? The photo isn't clear about exactly where you tested.

HI blades are differentially hardened, so the hard part should be around the edge bevel, along the "sweet spot." If you tested anywhere else, it should be soft -- by design.
 
If you tested near the cho then yes, it will be high 40s low 50s. If you hit the sweet spot they are high 50s
 
From one of the threads found in the Links Library sticky. Note the various hardness estimates for the four different "working edges" of the khukuri:


...Section 2 - The Different "Working Edges" of a Kukri:[/SIZE][/COLOR]
scan0001-1.jpg


Blue: the tip and although not as "soft" as people seem to make it sound (probably 52ish HRC), its being directly next to the sweet spot makes it prone to very hard impacts if not handled correctly (hence making it seem "soft" through juxtaposition to the sweet spot). I personally don't make much use of this area except during slicing actions (like if you were to gut an animal, slice up some onions - or perhaps slice the packaging tape to a box containing yet another kukri :p). Being the point of the knife, I guess it's also what you'd use for a stabbing action, but I've never found myself needing to use a khuk for such a task.
Green: The "sweet spot" or hardest area (generally ~58-62 HRC) and the only real area you want to use for heavy chopping. Although I sharpen this section to the same level as the others, I tend to increase the angle of sharpening ever so slightly here, making it less prone to deformation during heavy chopping tasks. Obviously since it's the hardest section, you can use it for pretty much any other task you see fit. Also, being the only section of the blade that naturally makes contact with what you're cutting (when perpendicular), you'll end up using this area extensively - especially if you find yourself using your khuk in the kitchen :).
Yellow: Belly of the blade and probably 55-57s HRC towards the sweet spot and gradually lessening down to low 50s HRC at the recurve. I use this area for lighter vegetation - from grass up to smaller branches. Since I sharpen this area more acutely than the sweet spot and since it doesn't suffer deformation from hard impacts (impacts that should exclusively be handled by the sweet spot ;)), it has an easier time slicing through springier objects instead of pushing it away like the sweet spot will tend to do. The overlap into the green area in my diagram just means that I inevitably use that area for these tasks as well (when swiping at a patch of grass for example) but for reasons already stated, the full yellow area is more suited.
Red: The recurved area and relatively soft (probably 50-52 HRC). My #1 use for this area is draw cutting (by gripping the handle of the knife with one hand and the spine towards the tip with the other). Since it's curved and sharpened acutely, it does a great job at stripping bark or shaving wood when used like a draw knife. Again, since it's somewhat softer in this section, assess how hard the bark/wood is before using this section in this manner. I also occasionally grip the kukri by putting my pointer around the cho and my thumb on the spine to use this area as I would a regular knife. Lastly, reverse this grip (thumb on/near cho, fingers on spine) and you're in a great position for peeling fruit (if you have a lighter kukri and/or your wrist and forearm can take it :D)

...
 
Moar pics of that beast

AK20sideB1-vi.jpg


The first dent right to the notch was there when I got the AK, the second is from the blade to blade test.
AK20sideB2-vi.jpg


Notice the difference of the fuller "design" on both sides.
I personnaly would have prefered the Kamis left it without the connecting lines instead of punching a third line.
AK20sideA-vi.jpg


I can't wait to field test it in the forest.

Stay tuned :D
 
Steve I love you!!!!!!!!! So I made the dent in the RED and my gestimate of low 50 was darn good. (petting myself)

David - by (1cm away from the notch) I meant 1 cm away from the notch ;-). You can see it on the middle pic, it is the closest dent from the right end side of the picture.

Hey guys, I have been here only since couple of posts and I already feel home.

Thank you!
 
Last edited:
And if you decide you dont like it ...well....PM.me:D Ive got a bunch of dead pine trees that need to come down!
 
Back
Top