2016?

Upgraded models.(more expensive and labor intensive, file work, polishing, mosaics, )

Call 'em Grade II or Enhanced grade or something

Metal hilts

A Marbles Woodcraft/Fieldcraft style
 
Once a knife gets above the $200 price, it won't sell for me. Remember the Commando? I would call that a presentation grade, it did not sell.
 
Once a knife gets above the $200 price, it won't sell for me. Remember the Commando? I would call that a presentation grade, it did not sell.

I think that would be a good next step for JK Knives thought, finding a way/style/pattern/method/font/finish of selling the 200+ knives.
 
Once something costs more than $200-$300, it had better require fuel or ammunition!

I personally would never buy a knife over $200

EDIT: I take that back, I have an Ontario Bagwell Bowie (Hell's Belle) framed inside a shadow box.
I paid $275 for that beauty, but it will never be used. Only admired and fondled. :D
 
I've had others say the same thing, if it costs over $200 I'd rather spend the money on a gun. I strive to keep my knives affordable, which is one reason I will never get rich doing this. I used to spend a lot of money on knives, mostly Randall's and Busse Combat, but I found I would not use them, so I sold them all.
 
It's not that I disagee but of the knife makers that are sometimes mentioend as selling more or making more money, they all sell 3-400 dollar knives regularly. I can't afford to pay that for knives myself, just seems to eb a part of the "higher" sellers market.
 
Yeah, I agree with that.

There is a top tier market out there that regularly buys the higher priced knives.

Maybe study the blade shape and handle material used on the higher priced stuff and see what JK can create for competition.
 
If I thought a longer Rule #9 would sell I would offer that option. I would be a heck of a knife!

I'll buy one and send it on a passaround to test the market. I KNOW it will be a great knife.
 
I'll buy one and send it on a passaround to test the market. I KNOW it will be a great knife.

If you are serious, send me an email with stock thickness and handle material choice, and I can give you a price. Delivery would be in January.
 
Yeah, I agree with that.

There is a top tier market out there that regularly buys the higher priced knives.

Maybe study the blade shape and handle material used on the higher priced stuff and see what JK can create for competition.

Have you noticed that the guys who sell a bunch of higher priced knives do not take orders? Kind of a "supply and demand" thing.
 
Have you noticed that the guys who sell a bunch of higher priced knives do not take orders? Kind of a "supply and demand" thing.

Yeah, another thing I have noticed is that PICTURES SELL KNIVES.
You can have a mediocre basic knife, but if you can pull off some awesome shots of that knife, you can get twice the price for it.
 
Yeah, another thing I have noticed is that PICTURES SELL KNIVES.
You can have a mediocre basic knife, but if you can pull off some awesome shots of that knife, you can get twice the price for it.

I think you have something there. I'm really dreading the colder weather when I have to take indoor photos because my lense fogs up outside.
 
If you are serious, send me an email with stock thickness and handle material choice, and I can give you a price. Delivery would be in January.
Done. Look for a passaround thread in the near future.
 
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Whoops...Wrong 2016 thread. :D
 
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I'm a sucker for big knives--mo' bigger, mo' betta. But the knives I really carry and use are the 2-4" blade length models. I've seen some pictures of what looks like a 3" Wharncliffe or Wharnciffe/Sheepsfoot hybrid that I would bite on in a second.

Tantos? Uh, no. Reverse Tantos...maybe.

Drop point utility knives, Yes. Kepharts? Of course. Maybe something along the lines of the famed Woodlore--a refined Kephart. The Skookum Bush knife has some appeal as well. A 'Scandivex" version of that would be handy.

While I so don't need another big knife, to not carry, a good interpretation of the famous Hudson's Bay Trade Knife would probably lure me in. Please don't make that.
 
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I had another idea for a "wish list": what about a Bird and Trout model? The Toby's Knife seems to come pretty close. I'd like to see a 3"-3.5" blade length. Thin and narrow blade suitable for field dressing a trout, maybe filleting. 1/8" O1. Maybe with a long but shallow clip point to form a sharp point. Full flat grind with a secondary bevel. Enough handle to work with 4 fingers--for my big hands that would be 4.25" or more. So maybe a 3.25" blade with a 4.25" handle, plus a touch of ricasso for an OAL of around 8".

Reading back over this thread, I realize I'm not the first to think this way:

I will throw out a bird and trout style.

I don't see many makers doing a Bird and Trout style knife. Hard to understand why not--we all love fishing, and a few of us a going after upland birds.

I'd like teak scales on mine--better in the water--with orange spacers underneath to make it easier to spot if you put it down in the grass. Lets call the knife the Partridge and Orange after the venerable trout fly pattern.
 
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I do plan on offering a new B&T model, but I was thinking 3/32" thick.

That's why everyone gets their knives from you and not me. :D
I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come out with!

I was thinking about it a bit more: I think my suggested handle length might be a bit small, I'd go longer than 4.25". Maybe 4.75". With a small blade, sometimes I want a longer handle so that I can move back on the handle and extend the blade's reach. A scalpel or utility knife is a good example of the small blade, long handle idea. The handle is such an important aspect of a knife's design since it is the 'interface" with the knife;I find a handle can make or break a knife more than the blade shape.
 
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