210mm gyuto critique please

Thanks, original concept was to not use any spacer just 1 pc of bog oak, but then realized I could not cut a slot for the blade that narrow AND deep so I cut the oak and put in the spacer but made sure the grain still matches and flows from bolster to frame.
 
This is tricked out my man!

Good materials, good fit and finish. I really like this one.

Nick
 
Fred, the steel is CPM 20CV made by Duratech. It is basically a first gen powder steel identical composition to M390.
Nick thanks man!
 
I'm a noob that just did my first gyuto.... so take it from whence it comes...
this knife rocks...
big time...

My grind for food release is a wide flat fuller with a convex bevel near the edge... it helps also for noobs not able to grind that thin and such acute angles whilst still having a thin edge and thin cross section...

But i warp many blades... in 14c28n... next up some bohler steels... m390 once i can grind worth a damn...
 
thanks guys, would you believe...it was returned , customer wants smaller handle, No problem! :eek::p ...it is a custom knife after all. It will be hard to take an 80 grit belt to that handle though
 
timos- said:
mainaman, good questions. Food release has become the hardest aspect of kitchen knife design for me to decipher. So far I have not been able to find out what exactly is the best grinds to negate food sticking. I did not test this blade myself, I sent to customer before handle was installed to ensure they were happy with it. Another blade of mine I have in the kitchen is ground in a similar way and I had a slice of potato stick to it almost like it was glued there. CRazzy. With cucumbers and onions it wasnt so bad. Then I read that it is mostly technique to avoid sticking...So i was able to with a little practice slice away with no sticking at all. However, I am a snail in the kitchen compared to a pro on a line. Ahh it is all so subjective, but also why i think chef knives are the ultimate custom knife challenge.
Click to expand...

That's cause food release has more to do with knifeskill and not the knife. Nice looking piece btw!
 
As a former professional cook, and sometimes chef i really like that blades aesthetics a lot. Handle is truly is mighty purdy imho.

the one pin in any handle concerns me, i'd feel more comfortable with 2 pins for sure fire durability . the 210 mm length is slightly over 8 " so it's fine for most folks in there kitchens. though he just wants to cut chicken breasts that length will allow him to do much more.

nothing under 8" is considered a work horse for any real cook or chef. so keep that in mind please. many makers are calling 6"/7" blades\chef knives and it frankly makes me cringe lol. so far as the grind for a good santoku or chef knife is concerned go with a flat grind, and don't deviate from that imho. edge can be convex or otherwise. with the flat grind it makes things easier to cut, especially when food gets thicker imho.

btw mosaic pins are always a nice touch. imho never use plain pins on a really pretty handle like that. the bog oak color really melds
perfectly with the burls' coloration. i would crown the ricasso and the top of the knife out to approx. 2-3" from the bolsters on any knife intended for pinch grip use. The comfortable feel makes it a joy to use over time. It also makes the user refer customers to you imho.

LASTLY ANY stainless/semi stainless steel that takes and holds a good edge; BUT ISN'T a PAIN TO SHARPEN is most desirable for any knife that's going to see a lot of action . Professionals like to use their knives, but do not like to worry about them or have to baby them regardless of cost. we will pay for maintenance free knives, over higher maintenance type knives in most cases; more often than not. just my 1.5 cents.

to give you an idea of what i personally chose as my work horse ; i bought a masamoto vg, 240 mm gyuto .
I wish you all the best dude. keep making those purdy handles, experiment with the bolsters and make sure they compliment each other like tha above knife does and you simply can't go wrong imho.
 
Thanks for the inputs knife dragon.

I love how AEBL takes such a keen edge so fast, but IMO it loses it fast as well. My 154CM gyuto Ive had banging around in the kitchen and surprisingly I kind of like the paracord wrapped handle...Not the prettiest but very utilitarian. The 154CM has a better wear resistance and stays sharp enough for me, Im no pro in the kitchen though. The CPM-20cv IS hard to sharpen, I am hoping it holds an edge long enough to be worth it. I am supposing that steel choice is just as subjective as every other part of a chef knife.

For me, blade length is just made to order, 8" is pretty nice overall, but I tend to prefer a 6.5" blade for the majority of tasks. I am just finishing putting on a 6.5" handle onto a 270mm Tanaka, Its so big IDK what it would be used for, hehe.

As far as the one pin, I like the cleaner more simple look. It is more of a challenge to use one pin with confidence. I fit these up very tight and use the pin to basically keep all the joints together while the epoxy is curing. The epoxy alone will be enough, If it did work its way loose over time, I will just replace the handle :)

Again, I really appreciate everyones inputs !

-tim
 
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