220 Grit Belts

Carterwhopkins

Carterwhopkins

Joined
Dec 12, 2012
Messages
238
Looking for advice on long lasting 220 grit 2x72 belts. I have used belts from many suppliers & brands and have not found one that lasts for more than one blade. I am making chef knives, so the blades are longer and they are all carbon steel 62-65Rc. From a solid 220 finish, I get good results with Trizact and ScotchBrite...my 120s are ok, just seems the 220 is the weak link.
 
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If you have a VFD and a water misting set up you could play with a 3M 675L Diamond Micron Film belt 75um(~220grit)
Use with Light touch.

Each belt is $75 though.

Might also try a SiC Cork Belt.
 
Norax u936 engineered ceramic. You are going to pay for it though at around $12+/ea
 
john april said:
how many knives do the last avigil ?
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I use one for only sharpening, it is like grinding on a stone and am on the same one for 3 years

They are going to last longer then pretty much any thing else. They can be used down to the backing and are a used by many for their surface grinders. They are long lasting and flat.

I prefer AO Hermes 346 in 220, I like the way it cuts and how it blends in the plunge area.
 
I have used the Norax 220 ceramic its no joke. It is as hard as a rock like Adam said but they suck for cleaning up plunges
 
Thanks guys....I will look at the Norax and Hermes, I use 120 in ceramic and have not seen a 220 ceramic. I can kill a Norton Bluefire Zirconia in a couple of minutes and an AO belt quicker. Actually, the belts do still work, but not optimally, and with my chef knives, the edge is so thin that I can overheat it in a millisecond. I am not worried about plunges, don't do them, just taking the finish to higher than 120....I actually start hand sanding at 220, though I use a Trizact and ScotchBrite before hand sanding. Also, all my sanding, on the grinder and hand, is down the length of the blade.
 
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Scaniaman said:
What about trizact gators? I just started using them and love them.
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Good belt as well, just have to be careful they often do not stay flat and can dish out in the center making you wonder why your grind is not even.

I even out the grit buy using some 50 grit backed by a flat bar.
 
I use the gator belts...they last and cut very well, i use them at high speed and low speed. A300 to A160 to A45...sometimes I get one that bumps real bad and its basically junk...especially in the a160 size for some reason. They will not work on 20cv but they do just fine with aebl and basic carbon...I use them as slack belt to convex and get consistent convexing from them.

edit to add:

A300 with a very light touch to clean up my blaze 120 grit inconsistencies, then on to a160, a65, the I use the a45 to highlight anything uneven.
 
I pretty much do what timos- timos- does for the majority of my blades. I hand sand pretty much everything so that routine makes hand sanding less of a chore.
For high alloy steel like 10V, S110V etc, I do a belt finish. I use X weight ceramics to do 99% of the grinding and then finish with 220 grit ceramic 3V 707's sprayed with WD40. They still don't last long with those alloys but give a nice satin finish. I use a special rotary platen setup for this final stage. The rubber backing has some forgiveness to it and allows for a superior satin finish in my opinion. I got the idea for this set up from @Matthew Gregory in this post from a year ago. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...rs-c-plate-and-radius-platen-chiller.1557823/
 
AVigil said:
Can you get a nice radius at the plunge with them and do they bend over the platen or wheel?

Because mine are flat and do not flex around the edge of the platen
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That's exactly how I get my plunges! So, what belts am I using then? Or is it just a different backer weight?
 
bmilleker said:
That's exactly how I get my plunges! So, what belts am I using then? Or is it just a different backer weight?
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Here is what I am talking about. They are flat and very rigid at the edge.
 
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