25" Sirupati Or 25" Kobra

Scara: You can easily adjust the fit by unfolding the leather from the inside of the sheath and sanding or cutting a slight bit of the wood from the sheath then fold the leather back. There is usually a very small spot near the mouth of the sheath only where the side of the blade rubs. If you were to remove too much you can always add a piece of leather or wood or piece of duct tape to adjust it. This fix is underneath the leather so you cannot tell anything has been done afterwards. You dont have to sand deep inside the sheath. Only underneath where the leather covers. Very easy fix.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ting-scabbard-sheath?highlight=loose+scabbard
 
Well that's a handy thread. I'd go at it right now, but it'll have to wait at least until later today.
 
Thanks Scara.
Thinner edge cuts better in a draw or lengthwise cut, but weight's also a factor in a chop, I'd think.

Lighter blade would be more dynamic in hand, but too light reduces depth of chop (on whatever medium). :)

On the sheath, I'm currently considering the idea of making a 15-inch AK a part of the ATV expedition gear.
While I like the authenticity, I've never considered the Nepalese sheath to be a practical carry device, for me.
If I do eventually incorporate the AK into a regular field-carry role, it'll be in a custom sheath that fits my situation more practically.

Just mentioned for purposes of discussion, not to knock anybody else's choices. :)
Denis
 
ndoghouse said:
Scara: You can easily adjust the fit by unfolding the leather from the inside of the sheath and sanding or cutting a slight bit of the wood from the sheath then fold the leather back. There is usually a very small spot near the mouth of the sheath only where the side of the blade rubs. If you were to remove too much you can always add a piece of leather or wood or piece of duct tape to adjust it. This fix is underneath the leather so you cannot tell anything has been done afterwards. You dont have to sand deep inside the sheath. Only underneath where the leather covers. Very easy fix.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ting-scabbard-sheath?highlight=loose+scabbard
Click to expand...

And it seems to have worked. Now to let the glue restick to the wood. It also seems that without the karda and chakmak it draws very easily. Maybe in the future I'll not jam them in as tight so I can have an easier draw.
 
Scara said:
And it seems to have worked. Now to let the glue restick to the wood. It also seems that without the karda and chakmak it draws very easily. Maybe in the future I'll not jam them in as tight so I can have an easier draw.
Click to expand...
Awesome man! Another thing: If its very slightly loose you can pull it apart add more glue and stick it back again. Sometimes just the glue buildup alone will work.
 
ndoghouse said:
Awesome man! Another thing: If its very slightly loose you can pull it apart add more glue and stick it back again. Sometimes just the glue buildup alone will work.
Click to expand...

At the moment it seems like it may still be just a little tighter than desired. I guess that's what happens when the only tool you have for the task is a karda. As useful as the karda is, it is limited.
 
Karda should be fine. See if you can tell exactly where it is rubbing on the blade. Slip a piece of white paper between the blade and sheath where you are carving and put some black sharpie on the blade. Then slide it in and out a few times and you'll be able to see exactly where the blade is tightest. Good luck. You will get it eventually.
 
Spraypaint your blade white.
That'll show you where it's rubbing too tight on the black leather. :)
Denis
 
ndoghouse said:
Karda should be fine. See if you can tell exactly where it is rubbing on the blade. Slip a piece of white paper between the blade and sheath where you are carving and put some black sharpie on the blade. Then slide it in and out a few times and you'll be able to see exactly where the blade is tightest. Good luck. You will get it eventually.
Click to expand...

All it took was a little more shaving with the karda, and not shoving the karda and chakmak in so far that they are wedged in. Now for a little glue and I should be set. I suspect the glue will speed up the draw a little because I don't have the leather popping out of the sheath every time I draw. I also had to slice off a bit of the leather in order to get the leather folded back in, but you can't tell from the outside. Turns out the karda isn't very good for cutting leather, but I had another knife with the whole "toothy edge" thing going on, and despite it being really big, I managed to do it.

Of course this makes me want to start making kydex more than ever. I have some in the mail, unfortunately I lack the tools and the guy who has them is always busy.
 
just to be pedantic, the HI khukuris are differentially (or zone) hardened (not tempered - and with a teapot of boiling water) by pouring the water on the heated blade. the cooling (?) of the hot water hardens the area it contacts, the rest of the blade cools on its own, and by doing so self-tempers the un-cooled spine. the technique is of course an art. the temperature, pour and after cooling must be just right. also remember that at altitude their water doesn't boil at 212F/100C, but slightly less (rough avg. 200F/95C). tempering is actually the art of reducing the hardness enough to prevent it being brittle and tough enough to bend rather than break. and hopefully not soft enough to bend permanently but spring back. that's the quick easy one paragraph explanation, leaving out the physical chemical, and crystallization changes forced by forging, heating and cooling steel to different levels.
 
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Rainbow4758 said:
Yea, bring a Knife to a gun fight
Click to expand...

nothing wrong with that. as long as you bring a gun too. :)
you'll need something to make the loser(hopefully not you) into convenient sized pieces.
and there's always the need to consider increasing your options in case you run out of ammo
or have a need for a quiet resolution.
 
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