2nd Amendment, Modeled by girl

Nice!!!! When are you gonna make knives though? :D Just kiddin', like the model and knife!
 
it is very amazing how strong the bond is on the handle to tang. i did a test with some extra green handle material that is 13" Long 1.5 wide and .5 thick. i glued it to some 5160 oF about the same size but 1/4" thick. i glued just the ends togather overlaping to make a 90 degree angle, looks like a big L. i cant pull apart, i used it as a lever and lifted my couch. i used loctite 411. i will do some more tests after work.
 
The problem comes from shearing due to impact, like dropping the knife on a concrete floor, handle first. I like the look of no pins, in which case I think hidden pins are the way to go, the pins resist shearing force and keep things glued together just as well as pins going all the way through.
 
Pic #5 is the best, then 2, then 1 (IMHO)...regarding focus, composition, lighting. (had the entire knife been in focus, #1 would have been a clear winner)


try a longer depth of field to get the whole knife in focus...I know it's not the only thing to look at...but the tips are a bit soft...and we like to see sharp, in focus tips.

Is the knife sharpened? Hard to tell...

Can always be sharpened, then slightly dulled if cutting oneself is a concern. It's always better to see a sharpened edge.



But the above is really nitpicking...overall, the pics are great. :thumbup:

Dan
 
JT, if you want to put some pins in the handles but want to keep the flow of the color of them, maybe you could make some pins out of the same material.
Just have to spin it in a drill or drill press if you don't have a lathe.
 
L6steel that is a cool idea
 
nice looking piece:cool: the knife that is!
i like the handle color, almost like jade at least from the photos
beautiful, clean lines on the blade:thumbup:
nice work
ivan
 
Really good looking knife. I agree that the handle looks amazingly like jade.

Super looking knife rest :-)
 
J oooooh sooo sweeeeet I like it :thumbup::D
I see you got your light box working for the situation
next time why not use hidden brass pins
drill from the back side and barb them then use epoxy to set them..
edited ooops I see justin mentioned this all ready I must be getting old and slow ;)

Tell your lady that, that was a great color choice for the shoot BUT
I'd like to see both parts of bikinis just to make sure they match up well too. :o
rr I mean both sides of the handle to see if they match up well .. :D
 
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You should be able to knock the scales off with a shearing slap from a wood or leather mallet---impact along the thin part of the scale next to the tang.
I agree, it's a nice clean look, so I'd drill the holes in the tang, and drill blind holes in the scales. Use the same material if you can for pins (especially if it's a little translucent) that only come 1/8 or so past flush with the tang. Put your glue on and press the blind holes in the scales over the pins in the tang, if that makes sense.

(Ha! I see the basics of this idea have already been offered!)

Nice blade! Clean shape and surprisingly nice color.
 
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Dan Gray said:
J oooooh sooo sweeeeet I like it :thumbup::D
I see you got your light box working for the situation
next time why not use hidden brass pins
drill from the back side and barb them then use epoxy to set them..
edited ooops I see justin mentioned this all ready I must be getting old and slow ;)

Tell your lady that, that was a great color choice for the shoot BUT
I'd like to see both parts of bikinis just to make sure they match up well too. :o
rr I mean both sides of the handle to see if they match up well .. :D
Click to expand...

Dan/JT,
What I have done in the past is to thread the tang and leave 3 or 4 threads of the screw exposed on each side. I used #10 screws and cut the heads off. Drill holes not all the way through the handle material and then mushroom the hole in the scales with a ball Dremel bit. This WILL hold. I saw a knife I made about 9 years ago a while back done this way and it is still holding fast. Knew it would...

Someone here back then suggested doing it this way, I can't remember who.

Craig
 
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I saw you talking about this in your other thread and I have so say I was sort of thinking... "oh boy, wonder how this will turn out."

Turned out GREAT!
Very, Very nice. Artistic even.
 
C L Wilkins said:
Dan/JT,
What I have done in the past is to thread the tang and leave 3 or 4 threads of the screw exposed on each side. I used #10 screws and cut the heads off. Drill holes not all the way through the handle material and then mushroom the hole in the scales with a ball Dremel bit. This WILL hold. I saw a knife I made about 9 years ago a while back done this way and it is still holding fast. Knew it would...

Someone here back then suggested doing it this way, I can't remember who.

Craig
Click to expand...

Craig I’ve mentioned doing things that way before, not that it was me you saw it from..
food for thought too guys
I've done it that way and many other ways depending on the application that works the best for me.. to add to the pot … say you guys have bolsters to mess with..
if I should have dove tail bolsters on both ends pinned on, the way that I assemble things (some times) then you reasonably can't do it that way, I never say we can’t do something because if there is a will there is a way but would it be worth the effort ? I say this because you could put the bolster on after if you don’t solider them on also , I do the bolster work first because I don’t want to shock Bone and antler and such...

any way if dovetailed you have to slide them in place radially but you could side a pin in one side with a slide through the tang pin to keep it hidden.
if you can picture what I mean.. but that only helps one side..so it's not good unless you can make the pin migrate into the other hole which you'd never really know that happened if one had the want to do that.. and you’d be limited in the length of the pin too so I wouldn’t consider this way..
but
in the case of two sets of bolsters I use what I call an epoxy pin , made from, you all guessed it epoxy :) which can of course possibly shear, so I also add epoxy biscuits to each end of the scale and bolster cutting room for it with a dremal cut-off wheel. remember you can make your pin as large as you want and even cone the inside of your handle material like Craig mentioned with a ball cutter.
you guys can come up with many ways to do things that will lock things in place that's why I don't have any one way of doing things,, normally I come up something while in the process ..if not only to make my ways better..
 
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