Rhynowet Redline or something else?
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2nd Knife. Need help finishing
- Thread starter Geronimo509
- Start date
Rhynowet Redline or something else?
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- Jan 11, 2019
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I was referring to regular (non wet sanding) sandpaper (usually red in color). I use Klingospor now and am very happy.
I find it awkward that just one pass on the blade would cause overheating the blade no matter the grit. Maybe if you put a lot of pressure directly on the edge?
Put a little soap in your water bucket. It will help sheet the blade better. When I can run my belts a half speed I can spray the belts with a spray bottle with soapy water and it will stay on the belt much longer than you would think. Give it a try. You might be able to get a couple of passes in. I don't think that Trizac works with water unfortunately.
Also for the last couple of passes put on a brand new belt. I save new belts for the last passes and after they lose that first bit of sharpness I will use them for grinding bevels while you have just a little bit more material.
Also for the last couple of passes put on a brand new belt. I save new belts for the last passes and after they lose that first bit of sharpness I will use them for grinding bevels while you have just a little bit more material.
Willie71
Warren J. Krywko
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- Feb 23, 2013
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- Jan 17, 2009
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I put a lot of pressure with the ceramic belts up to 120 and was able to make several passes before dipping it in water. I barely touched it with the 220 oxide and it was blue. I don't know. I'll experiment with some scrap and other belts i ordered when they get here.
Also, I need to read more about sharpening. I ended up putting a secondary bevel for the edge. its sharp enough to cut me but not shave. I'm still excited as it's way better than the first and I didn't think it would turn out this good anyway (I know it's not great but I'm taking baby steps here).
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- Feb 18, 2020
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Hello all. I'm new here and a new to bladesmithing. I have the same grinder, only it's one marketed by Dayton. Same 2x42. I've ruined a lot of knives on that thing! Sometimes I think if I could go back and start over again, I'd just get a proper entry level 2x72. Buy once cry once, right? I'd probably still have ruined blades, but maybe not quite so many and in the same way. I'm shopping for a grinder upgrade now and saving my money. Still using the 2x42, but being incredibly careful about it! It's taking a lot of time but also maybe teaching me some patience and finesse.
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- Jan 17, 2009
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- 13
Dayton, craftsman, norse, palmgren - they're all the same. How do you finish your knives without ruining them? What belts, etc?
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- Feb 18, 2020
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To be fair, I only successfully finished one, and it was a kiridashi. I was trying to make much larger knives which was not working out, so I went back to something smaller and simpler. Right now I'm working on a smallish nakiri (my fourth one) and so far so good. I started with thin 1084 from NJ Steel Baron - like really thin - .070 thin. At the time I didn't realize how ridiculously thin that was. So after warping the heck out of a couple, I cut the shape I wanted, heat treated it, and now I'm doing all my grinding post heat treat with a 120. Nothing higher b/c that's where things go awfully wrong. Once I get the edge on it, which is taking a lot of time, then I'll hand sand and sharpen on stones. That's the plan anyway. Wish me luck!
Geronimo my friend , say on 40 grit ceramic belt we have 100 grain on square inch .When you push steel on that spining belt they start to CUT steel .To do that you aply pressure .Now on 220 grit belt you have 2000 grain on square inch and when you push steel on that they don t CUT they are rubbing on steel and create LOT of heat FAST because you can not apply with hand enough pressure .....4480 sfpm is to fast for anything over 80 grit .I
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
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- Jun 23, 2007
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Moving from ceramic to others like AO I've found greatly increases the heat.
It is the decrease in grit size and increase in surface contact that makes them run so much hotter.
Dunk the blade before each pass. Grind it wet.
Quick passes. To start, dunk every pass.
I have ruined HT on a small chisel nearly instantly with a brand new 400 grit belt, on a quick touch.
Turned the edge blue instantly. I don't have VDF or adjustable speed on my grinder. 2×72 at 3000 rpm is pretty fast for finish work.
Im a newby hack, so more experienced makers is what I would listen to. 2×42 grinder will also heat up faster than a 2x72.
I've done grindin with 1x30 at 3000 rpm as well.
It is the decrease in grit size and increase in surface contact that makes them run so much hotter.
Dunk the blade before each pass. Grind it wet.
Quick passes. To start, dunk every pass.
I have ruined HT on a small chisel nearly instantly with a brand new 400 grit belt, on a quick touch.
Turned the edge blue instantly. I don't have VDF or adjustable speed on my grinder. 2×72 at 3000 rpm is pretty fast for finish work.
Im a newby hack, so more experienced makers is what I would listen to. 2×42 grinder will also heat up faster than a 2x72.
I've done grindin with 1x30 at 3000 rpm as well.