3/16 fusion Steel Heart ????

Clearly, I'm never going to understand this seeing as performance is my principle concern.
 
djolney said:
I guess that means that the stock was at least one quarter, and then they made a knife out of it.

I still don't understand the obsession with fat blades: the better the steel and tempering process, the less steel you need to do the same job well.
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Fat is cool, bigger the better!

:p
 
djolney said:
Clearly, I'm never going to understand this seeing as performance is my principle concern.
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Thats not a problem...some people have a "thing" for thick knives and some people don't :)
 
djolney said:
I guess that means that the stock was at least one quarter, and then they made a knife out of it.

I still don't understand the obsession with fat blades: the better the steel and tempering process, the less steel you need to do the same job well.
Click to expand...


the thickness of the knife can change a lot about how it handles. you wont notice it going out to cut up branches to put in you garbage can, but you might notice it if you taking limbs down for several hours at a time.

between 3/16 saber ground, and 1/4" full flat, the difference mostly comes in the handle weight. but if they are both flat ground, the 1/4 can sometimes be very noticably heavier. this can help with chopping, given that its going to be a small difference.

the idea that a steels strength and ability should determine its thinness is only worth applying if you have a purpose in mind for the blade that comes first. a knife that is 1/64" thick will make a very poor chopping blade, and wont do a very good job at prying, even if its more the strong enough to take both at that thinness. its kind of an extreme example, but it gets the heart of the idea. you should choose the thickness of your knife first on what your going to be doing with it, and then choose a steel that best fits the geometry and the intended task.


certain steels will require that you go thicker in order to maintain its ability to both take abuse and lateral stress, but if the steel can handle it, you should choose what thickness you knife is both by what you like, and what you doing.


personally - i'd love to have a 3/8" thick fusion battle mistress. i carry a .220 saber ground satin jack, and a .187 (i think? between 1/16" and 1/8") thick nick mod, each with there specific purpose. the 3/8" is a chopper, the .220 is a prybar, and the .187 is a slicer. it wouldnt matter wether it was busse or infi, i'd still want that set up in whatever it was i carried.
 
The knife needs to be measured near the handles. The blades are tapered at the point where it appears the measurement was taken.

Hope this helps,

Jerry
 
Purpose and balance determine thickness: I completely agree, but you couldn't pay me to carry a 3/8 thick Battle Mistress on a 40ºC day in Australia.

I can't wait to get my 3/16 Satin Jack, to see how fast it is in hand.
 
djolney said:
I still don't understand the obsession with fat blades: the better the steel and tempering process, the less steel you need to do the same job well.
Click to expand...
Edge geometry is more important. If you look at where the grind stops on the regular (shorter grind) and where the grind stops on the thicker blade (longer grind) You might come to the conclusion that the blade geometry is the same, which, from what I understand BOTH will have the same cutting angle.
So why the thicker blade? Insurance. :D
 
Personally, I would love to have a true 3/16" Fusion Steel Heart. A ZT SH on steroids!
 
Jerry Busse said:
The knife needs to be measured near the handles. The blades are tapered at the point where it appears the measurement was taken.

Hope this helps,

Jerry
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it measures the same thickness from the handles till about 1 1/4 from the tip where it starts tapering, in the pic where i have the tape,,it was about 2 inches from the handles. the angle i took the pic looks like it is closer to the taper point.
 
GALAXYTECH said:
strange :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :confused:

but the thickness in between the scales on mine are 1/4 ,,,but from the end of the scales out are at 3/16 :confused: :confused:

oh,well
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Jerry Busse said:
The knife needs to be measured near the handles. The blades are tapered at the point where it appears the measurement was taken.

Hope this helps,

Jerry
Click to expand...


Yes, that seems to be the way it is.

I used a caliper to measure mine. My new FSH is not 3/16". It is thicker than that.

My Fusion Steel Heart measures exactly .25" (1/4") at the spine, immediately in front of the handles, before the blade starts.

But once you get 1/2" past the handles, on the blade, it's only .23" at the spine, which is just slightly thinner.

Yes, my SHSH is thicker, but it does the same thing. Right past the handles, it's .26", then only .25" along the blade at the spine.

Shane
 
The important thing is that it isn't too far off the published spec of .220, which puts it right between 3/16" and 1/4".
 
MMMMMMMMMMMM 5/16" HOFSH, 'ought to be right at .310-.300

:eek: :D :eek:
 
The standard FSHs are 1/4" thick stock. The INFI stock is approx. .270" thick before grinding. After grinding it is approx. .245-.250"thick. Any appearance of a thinner blade is a by-product of the hand finishing and grinding where the spine is "de-horned" in order to remove any sharp edges. For a more accurate measure of the thickness I would recommend measuring the pommel or skull crusher. That will give you a more accurate reading as they are not as severely "de-horned".

Nuke On!!!

Jerry
 
Dark Nemesis said:
Thats not a problem...some people have a "thing" for thick knives and some people don't :)
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I personaly like the thick knives. It just feels more impressive in my opinion. :cool:
 
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