3 Amateur WIP's

[redsquid2]

Fresh back from heat treat.

With these, I wanted them light and small, for pocket carry or backpacking. I also had never made wharncliffes, so I decided to make a couple of them wharncliffes.

The one on top: I got a couple of complements on one of these, in yellow g10. The other two patterns: I have never completed a knife in these two patterns before.

I am open to suggestions on handle materials for all three.

Here is the one I made yellow and black. Of course, the next one doesn't have to be yellow and black.

In making knives, I find my hand-powered drill press to be indispensible:

 

[redsquid2]

Now I have a question: are my wharncliffes really wharncliffes, or are they sheepsfoots? I am not clear on the distinction.

 

[NStricker]

Now I have a question: are my wharncliffes really wharncliffes, or are they sheepsfoots? I am not clear on the distinction.

People tend to use the terms interchangeably, but from the examples I've seen on vintage folders, blades with a sheepfoot designation are close to your blade profile. That is, a relatively straight profile until the front begins to curve downward. On the wharncliffe profiles the spine of the blade has a gentle taper from the back/ricasso toward the tip.

Handle suggestions: snakewood on #2, natural canvas micarta on #3. Red liners on both.

 

[redsquid2]

People tend to use the terms interchangeably, but from the examples I've seen on vintage folders, blades with a sheepfoot designation are close to your blade profile. That is, a relatively straight profile until the front begins to curve downward. On the wharncliffe profiles the spine of the blade has a gentle taper from the back/ricasso toward the tip.

Handle suggestions: snakewood on #2, natural canvas micarta on #3. Red liners on both.

Thank you for the clarification and the suggestions. I don't have any snakewood on hand, but I might order some.

 

[stevomiller]

I'd call the center blade a modified coping blade, and the bottom one a sheepsfoot....tiger stripe or birdseye maple with aqua fortis stain and hand rubbed finish.

 

[redsquid2]

I'd call the center blade a modified coping blade, and the bottom one a sheepsfoot....tiger stripe or birdseye maple with aqua fortis stain and hand rubbed finish.

Thanks for the input.

The sheepsfoot I have started working on. I sanded it to 500 grit. Then for the handle, I decided to go with what I had on hand: maple that is a little striped and a little spalted, stainless steel tubing, and black liners. I will give it a light finish to contrast with the black liners.

More pictures to come.

I have lots more stripey maple, some golden cherry, some 1/8" yellow G10, and a big block of merbau. I have fiber liners of all different colors, and various and sundry tubes and pins.

Re: the merbau: Never used it before. Don't know what kind of a finish it takes. Will test tru oil on it tonight.

It will be fun to try vinegaroon on the maple. I don't have acquafortis, but I have read that vinegaroon has a similar effect.

 

[redsquid2]

Until I get more pictures, I will entertain you all with something completely different.

With cardboard, I have tried the Bic lighter heat treat, the gas range heat treat, and the propane torch heat treat, all with the same results: complete destruction.

 

[redsquid2]

Scales sanded to 150 grit, with a little Tru Oil to bring out the grain:

 

[redsquid2]

I am done with the sheepsfoot.

I have plenty of maple on hand, and no money to order other material, so here is more maple. What it will look like dyed with vinegaroon:

On this side there is that big divot. I worked too hard to build it up to this point, just to pull everything off and start all over again, so I will just fill it.

 

[redsquid2]

Looks like a Scandinavian grind, but it definitely has a secondary bevel.

 

[thegeek574]

Please don't take what I am about to say as a put down, but instead as advice that I am forcing myself to take. SLOW DOWN. Your handles are nice, but your blade grinds leave things to be desired. Take your time with every step. Get them ground, and then, if your grinds are *crisp*, go to hand sanding. If not, then get a file and start draw filing them until they are. Also, make yourself a hand sanding stick. It helps so much.

I have taken this same advice, and I went from putting a patina on a blade to hide the grind lines to getting actually discernible ones.

Knifemaking is not a race. Take your time. With the exception of timed orders, there is no time limit. Take a lot of long looks at the knife to see if there is anything that needs to get fixed before HT. You won't regret it later.

 

[buckmaster96]

Until I get more pictures, I will entertain you all with something completely different.

With cardboard, I have tried the Bic lighter heat treat, the gas range heat treat, and the propane torch heat treat, all with the same results: complete destruction.

make the transition on that one a little bit sharper like on the hinderer whancliffe and it'll be perfect.

p.s. you have been sig'd

 

[scs.knives]

Nice work, love the 1st wharncliff.

 

[redsquid2]

make the transition on that one a little bit sharper like on the hinderer whancliffe and it'll be perfect.

p.s. you have been sig'd

So happy to get sig'd!

 

[redsquid2]

I made a neck sheath for one

I put lots of extra sno seal at one end. Could you tell?

 

[redsquid2]

Here is the final one of these three:

I put the yellow cord on the sheath to make it more visible.

 

[redsquid2]

Do you all think these sheepsfoot-looking knives will be useful? The rounded one I sold, without ever using it, and the pointy one I just now recently finished, so I haven't used it yet.