3 Day Backcountry Winter Camping with Rick Marchand

kgd

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Feb 28, 2007
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Hi WS&S's!

Rick, his cousin Scott and I took a 4 day weekend and did some back country camping out in Eastern, Ontario last weekend. It was a great trip but challenging due to the ever changing conditions. Our site was a 7 h drive and we left the Thursday night at about 11:00 pm driving through the night. It was pretty hellish driving through freezing rain and then dense fog on the last leg through the backcountry roads. Arriving at about 5:30 am, it was still fully dark on site so we took a 2 h nap in the truck to wait for the light. We awoke at about 8:00 am to fog + freezing rain and commenced our hike out. Open waters kept us off the lakes and flowing waters to some pretty rugged terrain and fortunately frozen wetlands. We had anticipated hiking in about 7.5 km to a remote lake site, but the driving rain and accumulating wetness of our gear forced us to deviate from the plan and we chose to set up a base camp at a much closer lake.

The rain was unexpected, being both uncharacteristic of this area at this time of year as well as out of tune with the weather forcast update just before we left. Our outerwear, optimized for dry cold kept us warm enough during the hike, but needed to be dried for the uncoming deep freeze which was predicted to come the following day. After selecting a site nestled into some white pine located off the south shore of Puzzle Lake, the rain turned to a heavy wet snow. Rick made a really great shelter, pooling our tarp resources between us. Two tarps were used to construct a communal shelter framed with wood. The basic construction was of a center pole/lean to configuration, but then Rick bolstered that with an X-pole configuration made of spring saplings to help with snow loading on the tarps. One tarp covered most of the shelter (big enough to sleep three) and a second tarp covered the front part plus provided a draping of material over the front to act as a door. Another tarp was set up as an overhead awning to give us a place free of rain and driving snow. We gathered copious amounts of firewood and commenced getting a healthy fire going to help dry out our outerwear as much as feasable knowing the deep freeze was coming soon.

Having stayed up the entire night driving, we hit bed at 6:00 pm and slept until 7:30 am - a full 13.5 h sleep! All that rain and snow played havoc with tinder availability for the rest of the trip, coating all the small twigs with a layer of ice. The first night, temperatures dropped down to -18oC but it was cozy in the shelter perhaps contributed by all the hot air coming from Rick's back side....We woke up to a good ice glaze but fortunately we had stacked up a good supply of firewood from the previous evening efforts to light our breakfast fire. Under these conditions, primitive fire techniques were replaced with modern ones. Zippo and bic lighters and in some cases artificial tinder (Coghlan's fire sticks) were used to help us minimize fire building time and get the warmth we needed.

On Saturday, after breakfast, we took a hike scoping out the lake chains that we had planned to camp out at. At this stage, we invested enough time and resources into our base camp that we decided to stay there rather than move the base. It was much nicer walking without the heavy packs. The ice was solid enough to walk around the edges, although there was open water at the stream and creek outlets that we had to keep a look out for. One of the lakes (Loyst) also had a lot of slush, a thin crust you breakthrough into some slush over top solid ice. This was from all the freeze/thaw cycles happening since New Years day. Anyhow, it was slow going on the slush which had a habit of sticking and freezing to your boots. We were almost at our destination lake (Norway Lake) crossing a small lake called Mud lake and in the marshy fringe when Rick went through the ice. He must have hit some air pockets created by the vegetation and he sank one leg up to his knee and immersed his second foot past the boot. He was able to get out pretty quick, but not before soaking the liners of his mukluks. This resulted in us having to track back to base camp in order to get him dried back up. Point of fact, this was a good thing since going much further would have caused us to get back to basecamp much later in the day. As it turned out, we were back at camp around 2:30 pm in the afternoon giving us about 2 h to forage for fresh wood and give Rick the needed time to dry out his gear by the fire (it took about 4.5 h to dry everything out). Even with that long sleep of night one, we all hit the sack at about 7:00 pm waking again at 7:30 am. Yes, we had 25.5 h of sleep in 2 days, although this made up for having no sleep the previous night.

The chill really started to set in on Sat night. It was -22oC by the time we went to bed and -28oC when we woke up. At these temperatures, exposed skin starts to freeze up quite fast. Simple tasks of tying things, undoing and doing up zippers ect. can get your fingers into a numb state very quickly. But along with that brisk air was a complete loss of moisture. We hung our bags out to air out and all the ice accumulated from the two nights sublimated away rather nicely. As we did our hike throughout the much larger Puzzle lake, our activities literally drove the moisture right out of our cloths. Here the wool was in its proper element and performed to perfection. We had a nice shore lunch on an island in Puzzle Lake, saw what we think was a river otter bound across the ice about 400 m in front of us, had a grouse land in our camp and spotted all kinds of tracks - deer, fox, coyote, mice etc. It warmed again that night reaching a balmy -12oC and the next morning it stayed at about that temperature. This is a great temperature to work in - dry enough that moisture effectively wicks away from you but not so cold that you can work bare handed for extended periods of time without too much discomfort.

Monday morning we packed camp and hiked back out. The three days of deep freeze solidified the ice considerably and we were able to track back to the vehicle using the much more efficient water route.

All in all it was a great trip. The first day of rain presented us with some real challenges, literally throwing us into survival mode on camp selection and using fire to dry our gear. I really got a chance to test out my wool inner and outer layers as well as my sleep system (Wiggy's Ultima Thule bag and ExPed Downmat 7) and they behaved as hoped even under -28oC conditions. I pretty much used all the gear I brought and the team tried to eliminate equipment redundancies (one axe, one buck saw, one shovel). The Buck Saw was the wood processing king as past winter camping adventures suggested it would be.

Below is the video of the trip. The moisture wreaked havoc on my camera mic, so I had to do some voice over in spots because of interference of the sound. Enjoy!

Ken

[youtube]YTcFAzJpImM[/youtube]
 
Looks like a good time.:)
I would have rather done something like that than work over the weekend.
 
Wow, It looks and sounds like you guys had a great time.
Too cold me though. I am a warm weather camper now that I am getting older lol.
it sure looks like a neat place to camp.

What was the blade length of the knife that Rick was using to sharpen the stick?
Did you like your Wiggys bag Ken. that pad you had sounds like it worked out pretty good for ya.

What was the wood that you guys used?
Bryan
 
Thanks Bryan,

I think Rick's blade is 10.5" in length. Personally, I tend to like them smaller, but a blade with some length is great to have with all those day hikes away from basecamp where we weren't bringing the axe and saw with us.

The Wiggy's bag worked great. I was within 7 degrees of its stated temperature rating and felt really comfortable. Plus, I tried the thing they say on the website, placing my wet cloths and boot liners in the bag with me during the night drove off a lot (not all) but a lot of the moisture in the garments. The downmat 7 is the bees knees of pads that I've tried so far. Literally like sleeping on an air mattress but with a high R-value. It took a long time before I was willing to commit that kind of cash to as mundane an item as a sleeping pad. But like any good kit I think its worth it. There was a mispeak on the video, folded up, the downmat-7 is about the size of 2 x 1L nalgene bottles. It is pretty much the same size as my old thermarest ultralight (which had an R-value of 2.5), this one has an R-value of 5.9. The two together make an awesome winter combo, albeit the Wiggy's bag is on the large size for backpacking.

All the wood we were burning was oak.

Wow, It looks and sounds like you guys had a great time.
Too cold me though. I am a warm weather camper now that I am getting older lol.
it sure looks like a neat place to camp.

What was the blade length of the knife that Rick was using to sharpen the stick?
Did you like your Wiggys bag Ken. that pad you had sounds like it worked out pretty good for ya.

What was the wood that you guys used?
Bryan
 
Great write up and video KGD.

What clothing system did everyone go with this time?
 
Great vid Ken! What was the background music...I was digging that; great addition to the video! Boy you really got Rick to work...that was cool! The camera/video guy always gets to avoid the hard work :D Thanks for the journey...makes Afghanistan a little more tolerable. Temps have only been in the single digits (F) at night and hovering around 30 to 40 for day highs. Our trip to a remote Russian "club house" was a cold one...roughly 6500 feet in elevation and with wind-chill it had to be single digits that day...brrrrr!

ROCK6
 
Great write up and video KGD.

What clothing system did everyone go with this time?

It was mostly wool. Merino wool baselayers, polypro liner socks & wool socks. Rick had a fleece hoodie midlayer on and wool Cabelas wool bib-pants. He alternated between a cardhardt type bomber jacket and wool anorak depending on conditions. His and Scott's boots were CDN Army surplus muklucks. I was wearing merino wool baselayer, liner socks, wool socks, 18oz woolrich pants, a woolrich shirt jack as a midlayer and a Swandri bushshirt. Also had a fleece balaclava (a lighter on and a heavier one that I switch on and off depending on conditions) and a windstopper toque. Googles worked great on the open ice. Everyone had CDN army surplus gauntlet mitts and smaller gloves for fine working.

Great vid Ken! What was the background music...I was digging that; great addition to the video! Boy you really got Rick to work...that was cool! The camera/video guy always gets to avoid the hard work :D Thanks for the journey...makes Afghanistan a little more tolerable. Temps have only been in the single digits (F) at night and hovering around 30 to 40 for day highs. Our trip to a remote Russian "club house" was a cold one...roughly 6500 feet in elevation and with wind-chill it had to be single digits that day...brrrrr!

ROCK6

Glad you liked it ROck6 - Music was Leonard Cohen - 'Waiting for a Miracle' and 'The Future'. Take care!
 
What a good trip. The best learning trips are the ones that you begin to regret after only a few hours into it!:o I must have had a dozen regrets by the time we hit the hay that first night.... Ha!

Rock.... don't be fooled into thinking Ken manned the camera while we did all the work... he did more than his share AND shot video... something I don't think I could do. Ken is the silent workhorse that sets the pace for us fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants survivalists who try to steal all the glory. This was definately HIS trip.

That first hike out really tested our sense of priority. We were only an hour into what we intended as an all day hike, when we had to set aside pride and make the wise decision to set up camp. We could have pressed on, trying to get closer to our goal at Bear Lake and found ourselves in real trouble. I felt a sense of deja-vu as I assessed our situation... It was like reading one of the many "Tragic Hiker" threads. That early into the trip, foul weather doesn't seem as menacing but add to that, the many other obstacles one can face while hiking through unmaintained country(twisted ankle, twig in the eye, falling through the ice, equipment failure, etc...) and you have a recipe for disaster. I'm glad we did what was necessary. I would like to add that we took steps to make sure folks knew where we were and how long we'd be gone. Ken sent everyone various maps of the area along with a plotted course, complete with GPS coordinates. I also called in our trip to the Ontario Provicial Police and the RCMP with our itinerary, names, contact info, including where we parked the car and vehicle info. That way, our wives and the authorities knew where to look for the bodies, come Tuesday. ;):thumbup: I think it is a good idea to contact the appropriate authorities whenever you will be parked for several days. If the area is patrolled, that cruiser will be eventually start to wonder. They may even start to investigate, wasting valuable resources. They definately made it known to me how much they appreciate being kept in the know.

While planning for this trip, I went back and forth between the minimalist and "loaded" approach. I'm glad I decided to trade the wool blanket in for my modern sleep system(Wussy Sack). Not having to deal with natural shelters made for a more enjoyable experience with friends.... add to that the fact that most of this trip was in a provincial park, where we wanted to limit our footprint on the land. As Ken already made mention to, the weather we experienced really put our equipment/clothing choices to the test. One, does not usually expect rain/humidity and -28C to be within one day of eachother. I was able to manage with what I brought but have already made a few changes for future trips.
 
Great video and trip report!!!

I love the diverse conditions you guys had - really allows for a 'full' experience!!! Nothing like *crap* weather and the feeling of it about to worsen to put the uumph into setting up camp - it sure brings to life the importance on a nice, hearty fire for a feeling of security. It's also nice having company along whose skills you trust to share the tasks.

Thanks!
 
It's also nice having company along whose skills you trust to share the tasks.

I'm glad you brought up that point. I don't think we made a conscious effort to deligate tasks on this trip. Everyone just kind of "dug in" to whatever needed to be done and trusted that if we did our part, the others would do theirs. Scott and I are cut from the same cloth(we are family and trained under the same skills mentor) so I can quite literally trade packs with him knowing that his gear choices are my gear choices. Ken is not much different.... different brands.... different philosophy, perhaps but I would still not hesitate to grab his backpack and head down the trail with confidence. I had absolutely no reservations about the abilities of these guys.
 
Awsome video guys, I got cold just watching it. Bet you guys had a blast walking around during the day and sitting by the fire at night.. I would rather sit there with you in the cold then the office im in right now any day any time.
Hope you dont mind me asking, But im from sunny CA. Would covering the the shelter with snow keep it warmer inside??
 
I'm glad you brought up that point. I don't think we made a conscious effort to deligate tasks on this trip. Everyone just kind of "dug in" to whatever needed to be done and trusted that if we did our part, the others would do theirs. Scott and I are cut from the same cloth(we are family and trained under the same skills mentor) so I can quite literally trade packs with him knowing that his gear choices are my gear choices. Ken is not much different.... different brands.... different philosophy, perhaps but I would still not hesitate to grab his backpack and head down the trail with confidence. I had absolutely no reservations about the abilities of these guys.

Now that is some Great Stuff right there!!

THANKS!!
 
Looks like a good time.:)

Threesomes have a way of doing that :eek: ;)

Awesome stuff fellas ... those were some cold a$$ temps out there, hopefully it wasn't too windy.

That Trailblazer buck-saw is the bees knees :thumbup:
 
Great write up, Ken. I'll watch the vid later, but it sounds like it was a pretty good cold weather outing.
 
Great video and write up
Thanks

Rain followed by a plumet in temperature was always difficult
In upstate NY, Vermont it would rain, and I would use a poncho
And the rain would soften the snow.
And the snow would be very heavy on the snowshoes

But then at night there would be the usual deep freeze and the snow would ice.
Don't know what the weather pattern is and why, but that was what would happen
Then the soft snow would have an ice crust
I had the most modern aluminum framed snowshoes with ice teeth made by Prager
They were the first non-wood snowshoes, but they would slip on the ice crust
But the ice crust was not hard enough to walk on and the snow too deep when you would break thru the crust
Slip sliding away up those short steep hills

Interesting seeing your setup with tarps and fires, and how you do it.
I did it very different and I was on deep snow
Temperatures were similar, but there was wind higher up, where the coldest for me was in northern Vermont at -40
I carried a Eureka Timberline self-supporting tent and an Opimus gasoline stove with a pump
It was not a light rig, but that is all I could afford and it worked really well
I could rely on it and as I was solo I wanted that edge of ease of setup.

Good Times........
 
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