3 knives arrive, one 30 inch monster Sirupati

Joined
May 30, 2002
Messages
374
30 inch Sirupati
18 inch Gelbu Special
16,5 inch WW2

Finally after a long time of waiting the package has arrived. You people who live in USA are lucky who can get your knives delivered after a few days. I have to wait for a month or two, depending on.

Norwegian customs has rejected some knives from Uncle Bill so he has to send them to my mother in Sweden. Then after arriving there the knives will stay there for some weeks until my mother has a reason to travel to Norway and can post the package there and finally reach me. If she posts from Sweden I just have to pay taxes.



30 inch Sirupati
That thing really is huge. It is an unbeliveably big piece of a metal thing that is just incredible. A real monster khukuri. This would be something for Conan, or the future Californian governor.

I have already tested it in the forest. I chopped down some trees, real big ones too. The power of the 30 Siru was really awesome. Just hack hack hack and crash! That tall tree went down in no time. How simple and quick! It was as if someone had given growth hormones and adrenalin to that Siru. One thing is for sure though. This thing is different from all the other khuks. This one needs a fully focused user.

I must say though that I don't kill live trees. I always walk to find old ones that are dead without anything green. And I even cut down only those who are mere grey skeletons without any lichens growing on them. Simply because I want to let the lichens feed on the dead tree in peace. I fear that if I was to chop it down so it would touch soil then those lichens would be out of their habitat, not so high up in the air and possibly be outcompeted by other lichens on the ground. You see the lichens on dead trees (here at least) are different when the trees are lying on the ground than from when they are still fully erect and decaying. Anyway, when the tree is empty of any nutrition the lichens die from it too, and that is when the tree skeleton meets khukuri. But I always make sure there are more grey skeleton trees close by so that the woodpeckers don't run empty of trees to hack homes in. They prefer them grey.

The Siru is a bit over my limit I think. I am not sure if to keep it. It is really heavy. I need two hands on that thing. And the problem is that the end part of the handle has vibrations like a church bell on a Sunday. It hurts the hand. So now I am figuring about picking apart the handle and weld on a longer tang and put on a longer handle so that this becomes a 2 1/2 hand handle or 3 hand handle. The idea would be that the church bell vibrations could play around as much as they like at the end of that longer handle without feeling painful for me. And also I would get a much much securer grip with two hands. Now one of my hands has to grip on the flared out end part of the handle, which is not so comfortable or secure.

What do the experts here think about this?

Any ideas if alternatively a 25 Siru would be better? I am in need of a real user khukuri for some logging and clearing of an overgrown hectar or two close to the farm. I would have to put a double handle on a 25'er too I believe. My experience with a 25 Kobra tells me this.



18 inch Gelbu Special
This one was sent as a replacement of the one I broke.

Warning: The pictures in the links are over 500 kb big.

http://groups.msn.com/Justmypictures/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=24

http://groups.msn.com/Justmypictures/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=25

But here is a strange thing. I always hear about the variation between the kamis' styles. But these two 18" Gelbus which are both made by Sher have a big variation. The broken one is lighter, thinner and a definate weapon as well as a camping tool. The new one is heavier, thicker and the handle is remarkably thick. Definately not a weapon. Not for my body build at least.

I had a 20 inch Ang Khola once and the handle on this new GS is identical to that one. It's a bulldog kind of handle. And this was the reason why I had to let the Ang Khola go. The handle didn't like me. I can hold it and use it, but it doesn't feel optimal.

I know. Sanding it down. But still the blade is also a bit heavy.

Hmmm... I will see if some people I know would like to purchase it so I could buy a new one from Uncle Bill. All problems have a solution.



16,5 inch WW2
Not much to say. We all know how these work.

All I can conclude is that out of the 18 and 16,5 incher I think the 18 incher is better as it has just enough reach to give swinging momentum and can more easily take down a tree.

But the 16,5 incher is an ok to go thingy.
 
Did one of those pics show a knife broken at the cho? Ouch! De ar inte so bra (pardon min swenske och min fonts).
 
Had that happen to my first khuk, a chiruwa AK. Got the break it or bend it and get two for free, so all was well.
 
Originally posted by Eikerværing
And the problem is that the end part of the handle has vibrations like a church bell on a Sunday.
Are you hitting with the sweet spot (center of percussion)?
 
Good report and thanks.

Good news is none of the 2 for 1 tangs have failed during severe testing.
 
Originally posted by FallingKnife
Did one of those pics show a knife broken at the cho? Ouch! De ar inte so bra (pardon min swenske och min fonts).

Hey! Swedish here!?

Ja den brast over choen. Jag har blivet lite tveksam i forhold til Gelbu Special men bestemde meg før at ge den en sjans til.
 
Just learned too little Swedish too many years ago. Afraid I've forgotten most, since I haven't had much of a chance to use it.
 
Just learned too little Swedish too many years ago. Afraid I've forgotten most, since I haven't had much of a chance to use it.
 
I understand that the cho is a traditional feature, but from a functional view it's really a bad idea. Particularly on khukuris that are marketed as heavy user knives. Eikerværing's Gelbu was apparently *very* thick in that area (could you give some measurements, by the way?), but still it broke. I'm sure this wasn't the first time, and it won't be the last.

It ought to be possible to order HI khuks without cho, in my humble opinion. While the replacement policy seems very customer-friendly, I'd rather have a cho-less khuk in the first place.
 
Originally posted by Tristan_Bantam .......It ought to be possible to order HI khuks without cho,
Bottom line is it ain't gonna happen.
Previous comments here say the kamis won't do it.
Tradition.
No cho, not a khuk. They make khuks & swords, & little knives.
It's a rare enough happening (the break)
that I don't recall hearing of it more than maybe twice.
Of course it has happened more than that,
but I'm sure there have been more broken tangs
than cho breaks.
Lots of other makers not in Nepal make them without chos;
mostly custom makers, but some mass market like I think Kabar(sp?).
So if you want an HI khuk, you get a cho.
[shrug] ;)

Why did the cho break happen?
Probably a stress riser,
(check the cho & polish out any rough spots.
and check for any tiny cracks with light & lens,
I haven't but I might do this one day.)
Other reasons include:
splash of water hardened that area improperly
(etch for hamon to check)
forging flaw
(it happens, see stress riser above)
I'm sure there are several other possibilities.
 
Originally posted by ddean
Are you hitting with the sweet spot (center of percussion)?

Just came back from the forest now. This time I didn't notice any reconnance. I must have been giving it a lot of bad hits yesterday.

But still I am in need of a longer handle. I am going to weld on a longer tang and give it a new handle, I think. Let me just think for some time about that. Any advices would be helpful.

One thing is for sure. This 30 incher is going to grow muscles on me if I continue using it. I am a bit weak for it I think. This is good for me, all in life that is hard is good.

Now I am really curious about how a 25 inch Sirupati is to work with, I am imagening it as the ultimate allround tool for a farmer.

I think I might order a 25'er some time.



Originally posted by Tristian_Bantam

I understand that the cho is a traditional feature, but from a functional view it's really a bad idea.

I used to think so too but what Ddean says about the tang being the weakest spot makes sense. That is where the iron of the khuk is at it's thinnest.

I have broken an 18 inch WW2 at the tang.

I think I read somewhere on this forum that if a khuk fails at the cho then it is because the kamis let the iron cool too much before they stamped out the cho. And so that induces stress on the iron.



Originally posted by Tristian_Bantam

Eikerværing's Gelbu was apparently *very* thick in that area (could you give some measurements, by the way?), but still it broke.

I am not sure if you misread my post, but just to get things straight here, it was the thin one that broke not the thicker one. The thin one is in the pictures.

The thin one is 9,5 mm across the spine over the cho.

The thick one (the unbroken one) is 10,5 mm thick.

But when seen from the side the light broken one is 3 cm across while the new thick one is 3,4 cm.

This makes these two khukuris very different. It makes one of them a weapon and the other one not, and they are made by the same kami.

I don't have anything to weigh them with.



======================================================



ONE LAST WARNING TO EVERYBODY:

That 30 incher is truly a different breed than the other khuks. This one is dangerous for the unfocused user and everybody around him!!!
 
I was just about to start cleaning the khukuri after last post and placed it on the kitchen table. In the strong light I see that the edge has somehow a dent in it and bulges outwards to the side, not folded over but the edge line jumps out of it's straight profile. It looks as if Superman pushed the point of his little finger against the edge. It is possibly 2 mm off track only but it is so sudden and marked, looks like someone's finger has pushed at it.

I am sure it happened while chopping as I have been admiring this blade a lot before and I never saw this.

Is this normal? It is in the hardened zone.

Do I just take something and beat the edge back into a straight line?
 
9.5 mm is still extremely thick, at least by my standards. While it's true that other factors (as mentioned by ddean) might have been decisive, the fact that the break occured at the cho tells me that that part was the weakest link in the chain (so to speak). Were you making full-force cuts?

I must admit that I didn't understand at all the part about one khuk being a weapon and the other not.

From what I've gathered, some consider HI khuks to be non-traditional by virtue of being very thick. I wouldn't know whether that is true, but it seems to me that the thickness is a compensating feature for the inherent structural weakness of the cho -- given that they are said to be the toughest khukuris of all, this makes sense to me. Feel free to correct me, though. And don't get me wrong: I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my first HI khuk!

Originally posted by Eikerværing
I am not sure if you misread my post, but just to get things straight here, it was the thin one that broke not the thicker one. The thin one is in the pictures.

The thin one is 9,5 mm across the spine over the cho.

The thick one (the unbroken one) is 10,5 mm thick.

But when seen from the side the light broken one is 3 cm across while the new thick one is 3,4 cm.

This makes these two khukuris very different. It makes one of them a weapon and the other one not, and they are made by the same kami.
 
Originally posted by Tristan_Bantam
Were you making full-force cuts?

No, not at that moment. I was working on a timber log, the one you see in the pictures. The timber log was whole when I started so the amount of wood that you can see has been removed in the picture was all done in one straight working session with that Gelbu.

In the beginning I was giving full force chops, wanted to test it. But as chopping my way all through that log was quite some work then I started chopping more lightly so I could endure the entire session. And then suddenly, after quite a long time with light chops, it just broke and I just stood there with the handle in my hand and the blade embedded in the log. I didn't remove the blade but took a picture first, so what you see in the pictures is how it really looked like.



Originally posted by Tristan_Bantam

I must admit that I didn't understand at all the part about one khuk being a weapon and the other not.

Sorry about that. I was literally speaking out loud my own thoughts (babbling) without passing on the right meaning. What I meant to say was that for me, with my body size and capabilities, the new heavier khuk is too heavy for being a weapon, while the old thin one was just right.

With your body size and capabilities you might be able to have a heavier khuk than me and still call it a weapon. It depends on how much iron you can move with some swiftness and control of movement. What I discovered whith these two slightly different Gelbus is where my limit is when it comes to khuks as weapons. Everybody has to find their own limit on these things.


Originally posted by Tristan_Bantam

From what I've gathered, some consider HI khuks to be non-traditional by virtue of being very thick. I wouldn't know whether that is true, but it seems to me that the thickness is a compensating feature for the inherent structural weakness of the cho -- given that they are said to be the toughest khukuris of all, this makes sense to me. Feel free to correct me, though. And don't get me wrong: I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my first HI khuk!

I haven't much experience with other khukuris so I don't know if they are thinner or not, if you have heard so then it must be correct.

I have one from Kathmandu in Nepal that has engraved on it "Nepal 1999", so it sounds kind of tourist quality but the person who bought this one for me told me that she had steared clear of the tourist crap market of such knives. It is a 14,5 inch British Army Service type. I have had this one since 1999 now and it has served me well as a camping knife, soil digger, prybar and hammer.

When sharpening it the metal of it is in no doubt softer than in the HI khuks. But still it has worked excellently, even hammering nails with it hasn't left any marks on the spine so far.

For 1 US dollar that is a lot of knife for the money (if you don't count an airplane ticket to Nepal), but I think the HI khuks are of better quality and certainly with better handles.
 
Ok, it could be that I am mistaking about the limit for a weapon for myself. Because the thickness of the handle on this one makes it feel too large for me and that makes the whole rig feel less than optimal. But still, it does kind of feel heavy also, so I think it is too heavy all in all, as a weapon + tool.
 
Nice Pix Eik! Those big Sirupatis are definitely impressive! Love the scenery too! Makes a person half tempted to get a plane ticket.
Have a couple of large Sirupatis. The 25" I have is by KNN and it weighs in at 31oz. Blasts through stuff like a light saber. Picked it up from Uncle as a return. Had a ding in the blade. Seems to be a good length as there is a definite difference in the handling between the 30"ers and the 25".
Thanks again for the great report and pix.
Guess I'll just use english here. My paternal grandparents knew Norwegian and Swedish and I knew a few phrases a child but not any more. Guess both are kinda close as my dad said they'd switch from english when the kids didn't need to hear!
 
Eikerværing

I had an 18 inch WWII where the edge seemed to jump track. I believe it is a problem during hardening. It was right in the sweet spot. Uncle Bill replaced it no questions. It was during the time when the communists were causing the kamis a lot of stress. Sounds like the situtation is similiar with the tang problems. If I was you, I'd take advantage of the lifetime guarantee and send it back. The blade should bend at the tip if it hits a rock or something but it shouldn't warp from normal use to the sweet spot.

-Vicks
 
Glad you enjoyed the pix Hoghead and thank you for the words on the 25'er.

Kanskje vi sees en gang?



===========================================

Vicks

Thank you for your input. The problem for me is the distance. Sending a 30 incher across the Atlantic is expensive for me (student budget).

I don't know what to do really. If I took a picture of this and sent it to Uncle Bill then maybe that would be sufficient. I will talk with Uncle Bill about it.
 
Originally posted by Eikerværing
In the strong light I see that the edge has somehow a dent in it and bulges outwards to the side, not folded over but the edge line jumps out of it's straight profile. It looks as if Superman pushed the point of his little finger against the edge. It is possibly 2 mm off track only but it is so sudden and marked, looks like someone's finger has pushed at it...
Do I just take something and beat the edge back into a straight line?

I had this happen on an M-43. I talked to Uncle Bill about it and asked if I should try to repair it before sending it in. He said to go for it, so I took a small hammer and pounded the dents back into line with the rest of the egde using small careful hits. After the edge was as aligned as I could get it with the hammer, I used Pendentive's technique of sanding lengthwise along the blade with a sanding block and progressively finer grits of wet/dry sandpaper. I convexed the entire edge, and also took it to a bit more obtuse angle. So far I've had no problems with it after the repairs. I've chopped numerous 2x4's in half and it still shaves and slices through typing paper with ease.
--Josh
 
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