3 more blems for 7/1 -- pix and more steals.

I then used a polishing compound designed for non-ferrous materials
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Ben, I've repaired cracks with SuperGlue and noticed the dulling that you mentioned. Hadn't heard about the last step with the polish. What kind are you talking about?
 
Originally posted by pendentive ......Has anyone tried using black india ink?
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-Real- India Ink is 'carbon black' (soot) in a water-based binder (glue).
Don't know about material currently sold as India Ink.
But, I think any dry powder (tempera powder, soot, japanese ink-stone,
dry watercolors scraped/sanded to powder, dirt, other) will mix with epoxy.
A dye (a non-particulate) would have to be compatible somehow.
(Obviously, something somewhere might react, but probably not any
common art or household colors.)
I recall successfully mixing a model paint with epoxy about 30 years ago.
 
IN a bit more recent past than 30 years ago ;) people in Shop talk forum have mentioned same thing(model paint to color epoxy) in probably last 3 months or so. Since I joined bladeforums anwyays
 
Aard, I bought it at Home Depot. It was part of a kit that had two polishing wheels (felt), two white compound sticks, a brown stick and a grey stick. The brown stick is the one I used. I'll get the name brand tonight and let you know.
 
They actually make epoxy paints. Extremely durable, especially in high wear areas, or around nasty chemicals. They're not too much fun to work with in small quantities. You get a bucket of paint, and a small container of activator. Mix the two together, paint quickly, and it hardens up like magic.

I imagine that epoxy paint is very similar to 2-part epoxy, but with some sort of dye or pigment. Sort of like India Ink, but replace the water-based binder with epoxy.

The bottom line - you can mix pigment or dye with epoxy to make your own epoxy paint. I expect that most things would work, barring chemical incompatibility between the pigment and epoxy. It wouldn't be good if the epoxy chemicals ate the pigment. That would be easiest to tell by just trying out a little bit to start.
 
It does sound as if a bit of experimentation may be in order. Or maybe I'll just get lucky, and the Hooflex will work. Right.
 
Aard, the name of the company is Columbia. It is billed as an 8 piece polishing kit. It can be found in the section of Home Depot that has all the hand tools, drills and accesories.
 
Many thanks, Ben.

Slightly fewer to Mr. Dean, because I already tried that one.
 
the important thing to remember is to mix enough dye/paint/dust/etc so that the epoxy is no longer translucent - then it will look more like a material, and less like epoxy. It's best to do this with a 20+ minute setup epoxy and not the 5 min. Devcon stuff.
 
Thanks, Dan.

It looks like I will be doing some epoxy dyeing after all. I treated the handle with Hooflex for 3 days without any appreciable change. Not that the separation was THAT horrible to begin with.

I heated the handle with a hair dryer first, then applied the goop. Made it look real purty, but didn't close it up much.

A small word of caution to onyone who does the same thing: the Hooflex works its way nicely into the gap between the tang and horn (this is chiruwa-style, you'll remember). The khuk is going to be just a bit untrustworthy for use until the Hooflex is gone. I tried using it to chop some orange branches, and every chop gave me a palmful of Hooflex, making the grip real slippery.

I'll probably take the hair dryer to it again, see if I can force the stuff out.
 
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