3 steals for 1/14. Pix and very good deals.

I've tried the TruOil: 16 coats on a 16.5" WWII. Love the results from an aesthetic point of view, but it's not as robust as I would like. Scratches a little too easily. Not to say I won't do that finish on this lady. Depends on how she looks.

I'll have to see about modifying the handle. Most are a little to small for me, so I'm hesitant to remove any wood.

The k & c handles almost look like they're made of petrified wood, don't they?
 
Yeah, they do kinda look like agatized wood. You'll have to post a pic after you get it finished. I'm really curious to see how the handles on the k and c turn out.

Have you tried wax over your tru-oil finish? It seems to help with the durability. I finish my handles off with 3-5 coats of Johnson's paste wax. You might also want to look into a polyurethane finish. If I'm not mistaken, Pen did some of the villager refurbish handles with a polyurethane finish, and they looked great.
--Josh
 
That grain on that 18 centery handle looks good to me to! I have a feeling the Karda & chakma handles will drink a helll of a lot of whatever finnish you decide on. They might even appreciate some thin superglue soaked in.
Just a thought!
Spiral
 
I used to go through the true oil then wax bit on my firearms. I eventually went to oil. This leaves a natural, satin finish. Over time, a patina can develope like 'true oil'. But the best thing of all is that if scratched, a little rubbing and more oil cures the problem.



munk
 
Oh, lets see. I used to use Howards, but can't find that anymore so I got some "formbys' at the hardware store. It happens to be lemon oil, among other things. Any of the natural oil based products designed to replenish wood and wood furniture.

I've used orange oil. I like the color better- suits darker oak and the khuk handles well.

I put a slathering layer on the handles, leave it overnight to soak in, and polish the excess away next morning. Cleans the wood too.

From reading here I suspect if the wood oil product came in contact with the glue under the handle it might disolve some of it. Hasn't happened with mine, though.

munk
 
I put Orange oil on treated surfaces too. Like a true oiled, or linseed oiled gun stock.

Now, there is some new cleaning product called Orange Oil, or having orange oil. I would make sure I was not putting this on my khuks unless the package said you could. Good for everything. Put it on your breakfast cereal.

Aardvark; Walosi and others know more than I ever will. It's just I've found oiling wood a simple and effective thing to do. No matter what happens to the handle, gouge, scratch, whatever, oil smooths it all out into a homogenous appearing surface. So I don't have to sweat the khuk, or a favorite 41 nag, getting dinged.

munk
 
Oiled is the way to go. I prefer a Tung blend to the more "exotic" oils. Just let the wood drink it's fill and apply the last coat with 0000 steel wool and wipe off. Leaves a nice satin finish.

Brian
 
Originally posted by munk
lemon oil,
Click to expand...
I've read somewhere that most "lemon oil" products
are usually thinned mineral oil with a drop or two
of lemon oil for scent.
Don't know. Never bothered researching it.
 
I imagine both lemon and orange oil have many petroleum additives.


my bottle says; this lemon oil has a variety of natural oils to replenish wood. It is called Formbys Lemon oil replenish, or some such. It is made by miniwax.




I've used it extensively and see no real difference between it and Howards. Howards has Orange oil and you can get his mix with wax.



munk
 
AND TO WHOM, MAY WE ASK, DID THE 18TH CENTURY KHUK GO?

WHO TOOK THIS AWESOME RESPONSIBILITY, THAT OF GETTING A GREAT DEAL? WHO STRUCK WHILE THE IRON WAS HOT? WHO REMAINED IN THE KITCHEN BECAUSE HE COULD STAND THE HEAT??

WHO DID THIS THING?


munk

I wonder if many of you realized the 18th Century was by BURA and near perfect blade shape?

you could tap in the butplate and fill the wood, probably the best, or because there is so little wood missing, you could grind the corner off the butt cap after tapping it flush and very few people would hiccup. If you did both sides it looks natural.

Best of all, does this mean someone will actually try and USE one of these 18th century khuks!!??? Heaven forbid.
 
Looks like I put my post in the wrong deal thread for 1-14-04 I still wanna know who got the 18th century with the bent cap.



munk
 
Joe

Here's what I'd do with your beauty:


  • Rub the handle with a rag soaked in mineral spirits (don't forgot the latex gloves, btw). This will remove any excess red polish put on by the kamis.
  • Once dry and non-sticky, use some 400 grit sand paper to smooth the handle and soften any hard edges. You won't remove enough to make the handle any smaller, but you'll rough it up enough to get it ready for finishing. I cut it into 3/4" wide strips, put the khuk in a vice, and sand it "shoe-shine" style. Then, follow that with 5-6 strokes "along" the grain, rather than across it. (shoe-shine style is across the grain)
  • Do the same thing with 600 grit and 800 grit paper, ending with 5-6 strokes parallel to the grain to even things out.
  • Get some Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane Finish - either glossy or satin. It's cheap ($4) and on the shelf at Home Depot, etc.
  • If using Satin, wipe on and wipe off a finish every 15 minutes until it gets too tacky to use.
  • If using Glossy, wipe on one coat, wait 2 hours, wipe on one more, leave it overnight, wipe on one more, leave it a few days.

Either of these will give you a high level of scratch resistance. I usually don't prefer a glossy finish, but the grain on this one is so nice I'd do it - just to show it off. The glossy will really make it sing.

Not trying to force it down your throat, just offering a "what I would do" scenario...

Dan
 
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