3 - Utility/EDC Slicers

Alan Davis Knives

Knife Maker
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All three are ground very thin (about.025 or less behind the secondary bevel) from 52100 high carbon steel with a hand rubbed satin finish, and come with a right hand leather sheath, leather lanyard and a hand turned bead from the same material as the handles. SHARP!!!
$100.00 + $8.00 each shipping in the US. Paypal, money order and most other forms of payment

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Desert Ironwood scales (SOLD)
overall-6 3/4"
blade-3" tip to scales x 7/8" high x a little less than 1/16" thick
mosaic pin and lanyard hole-3/16"
grind-full flat

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Spalted stabilized Walnut scales (SOLD)

overall 6 1/4"
blade-2 7/8" tip to scales x 13/16" high x about 3/32" thick
mosaic pin and lanyard hole-3/16"
grind-hollow 10" wheel

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Alan, please stop posting knives like this. I do not have the $ to pick up another one right now or I'd be on #2 like white on rice!
 
Alan, what is rather unique here is that each blade has a different grind. In choosing i did not taken that into account because i have found a well ground blade whether full flat or convex cut the same. In theory a convex grind should be a better slicer but likely any difference is so slight as to be undectatble with blade stock this thin.
Knife #3, flat to convex grind is one i have no experience with. Is it for those who can't decide or is there an advantage to it.
If your experience is different from what i have stated, please elaborate.
All are very nice, very useful and attractive knives. It was not easy to choose which one to buy.
roland
 
In my opinion, the flat grind makes the best slicer because of the straight geometry, the least amount of resistance. The hollow grind will get the sharpest but loses its edge a little quicker and is the most delicate because the hollow often gets thinner than the edge. A convex grind will keep its edge longer but never gets quite as sharp( will get shaving sharp but not quite hair splitting at least not for me) and is the strongest edge because of the extra steel left behind. The flat to convex grind I did on this knife is a flat grind with the last 1/3 of the blade near the sharpened edge at a convex, kind of giving the advantage of less resistance and a little longer edge retention and strength. But my favorite for slicing is the full flat grind, I use a hollow grind on my own personal hunting/skinners, and convex on knives for hard use like choppers or smaller knives that may be used hard. Being semi-retired from the construction trade as a builder/master electrician, I carried and used a knife all day every day for 25 years, mainly for skinning large and small wire ( I started before they had wire strippers and just got use to using a knife for the task) and the only grind that worked for me was a full flat grind, hollow grinds would hang up on the copper and convex caused to much resistance.

I hope this answers your question Roland.

Thanks,
Alan
 
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Thanks Alan. Your post has added a bit more to my understanding of blade grinds and is much appreciated.
With your reputation for being a Master of sharpening, i'm surprised no one else has jumped on these other 2. It's a great opportunity for someone to get a super sharp small Utility FB.
Once you start carrying this size of FB you'll find it to be the best outdoors EDC of all.
roland
 
Nice score Roland,you will not be dissapointed, Alan makes one hell of a knife
:thumbup: Second that

I'm a fan of the full flat grind as well, then again these other two still look like awesome slices to me, gorgeous wood to
 
Likely you are not missing anything. Blade grinds are difficult to see in a picture. If you could handle all three and rub your fingers from spine to edge you would feel the difference.
Buy the remaining one and then you can feel it and have a superb slicer knife too.
roland
 
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