3V comparison question

C

chugokujin

Joined
Dec 21, 2002
Messages
556
Hi,

I asked this in the "Genernal" section and wanted to get some thoughts here as well.

I'm one of the many guys on the Koster knives waiting list for a 3V Bushcraft knife. I also have an A2 Skookum Bush Tool comin soon. It seems that 3V is considered 100% tougher than O1 or A2 in the same thickness as the experts see it.

So practically speaking, would that mean a 1/8" thick 3v blade would be as tough or tougher than a thicker O1 blade or A2 blade by comparison?? Has anyone wondered as well?

The Koster Bushcraft will be my first knife in 3V. I'm hoping some of you that already have knives in 3V can chime in. Thanks.
 
I'm interested in to see how the 3V performs myself:thumbup:

The main problem I find with the super fine scandi type edge is a lot of times you can strop and sharpen it out to where it's so fine you get some chipping if you get into some dirt or something when cutting. It's never terrible and can usually be fixed with some 1500 grit paper or a super hard stone and really isn't a problem, more of a tradeoff for the ultra efficient cutting edge.

However reading about this 3V it seems to indicate that it resists chipping more than the other steels in the other scandi grind blades I have. So I am real interested to see how that translates into reduced chipping.:thumbup:
 
There are a number of different things involved. First 3V is a CPM steel which has the benefit of finer more evenly distributed carbides.That makes it tougher. Lower carbon content of 3V compared to A-2 makes it tougher. Direct comparisons from charts of toughness has never been exact !! ...As a chopper[tougher] the 3V will do better but for ordinary [wear resistance] use A-2 should be better.
 
hollowdweller said:
I'm interested in to see how the 3V performs myself:thumbup:

The main problem I find with the super fine scandi type edge is a lot of times you can strop and sharpen it out to where it's so fine you get some chipping if you get into some dirt or something when cutting. It's never terrible and can usually be fixed with some 1500 grit paper or a super hard stone and really isn't a problem, more of a tradeoff for the ultra efficient cutting edge.

However reading about this 3V it seems to indicate that it resists chipping more than the other steels in the other scandi grind blades I have. So I am real interested to see how that translates into reduced chipping.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

woodcraI'm in the same boat as well. I'm very curious to put it to some piratical ft uses. From what I have read it should fair very well.

mete said:
There are a number of different things involved. First 3V is a CPM steel which has the benefit of finer more evenly distributed carbides.That makes it tougher. Lower carbon content of 3V compared to A-2 makes it tougher. Direct comparisons from charts of toughness has never been exact !! ...As a chopper[tougher] the 3V will do better but for ordinary [wear resistance] use A-2 should be better.
Click to expand...

That seems right in line with the little amount of research I found on the web.
 
Yes, I've seen the numbers on Crucibles pages too and appreciate the responses. I know scientically there are many variables. I am just wondering what the end user would notice during usage like batoning, prying, etc..

So then lets say a 1/8" thick 3V Bushcraft vs. a Charles May 5/32" OSK in O1? What are we talking about here in real world performance??
 
I would hesitate to pry with either knife. Light batonning will be ok, probably, but I'd keep it light. A scandi grind in 3V will take a while to sharpen, I would have gone with full flat or high flat, but your money, your call.
 
Sodak,

Thanks, I'm not so concerned about the sharpening. I was just more curious about its touted toughness. I just thought it interesting that a thinner stock blade could be as tough as a thicker one. Makes sense for one looking to lighten his surival gear.
 
Hope Mete will correct me if I'm getting things muddled here, but keep in mind 3V is touted for superior impact resistance- not sure if you guys are talking about "toughness" in the same way. This means it would fare much better in uses that involve sharp impacts, like if you're doing some serious chopping and hit a rock, or beating on the spine with a hammer or something. It does not mean it would be stronger for things like prying. That depends more on the hardness and greatly on thickness.

To me, on a knife for wilderness use, it makes sense to go with a steel that's inherently tough at high hardness. In other words, you can leave the temper at a higher hardness than you would with other steels for greater edge strength (better resistance to edge rolling), without worry about it chipping out.
 
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