- Joined
- Dec 14, 1998
- Messages
- 4,870
I would do my tapered tangs after heat treat.
And yes the edge if ground will cool slower. Put it in front of a fan. This is air quench steel . It should be no problem
The edge may or may not be a bit differnt.
If this is of concern then make a jig and use you hardness tester. Every blade and steel has a range. I have been making mine full flat and gringing after heat treat. As for grain problems. After talking to crucible ..
This is sprayed metal (simple term)
It has no grain direction and the way its cut should not be a factor. That was the quote from the metalurgist at crucible ..
I have cut them both ways. This material just
likes to warp. The 420v I have been using for
a few years... IT just warps I dont care what you do. Either direction or whatever...
Tom this is the best method I have found to date.
My next quest is diff temper on big blades to see if this helps make the 3v tougher. In the tests on folder blades it made a small difference..
Running Dog
We are talking apples and oranges here
The 1084 and 5160 are oil or water quench steels.
I would use salt bath for the high end and oil quench on the low temp. The salt heats the blades evenly. Also good grind practices are a must to stop warp. Then temper them in a temper plate to take out any other warpage.
Once again I leave a small flat for out to the tip . Then clamp them up in the fixture and temper them.
This is not is cure all. But it helps.
Then I grind after heat treat to remove the excess steel. In production I dont think this
is cost efftive. Most often the steel is heat treated first then ground to stop warpage.
This is just for us po guys..
I want to give credit here for the quench plates .. Tom Clark .. national metal treating
Rj Martin
Kit Carson
Ed shott
I didnt have much problem with 420v.. The 3v is a challendge because of the fast quench time required..
I feel that this steel can be Heavy oil quenched also. Crucible said yes but with caution.. cracking problams. This is something I deal with for the brine quench steels also. So i figure it can be done with process control. I have done a few small blades. It worked. I will do a big blade and let you know what happends..
For the 3v this will give a semi diff temper
:]
------------------
Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 07-07-2000).]
And yes the edge if ground will cool slower. Put it in front of a fan. This is air quench steel . It should be no problem
The edge may or may not be a bit differnt.
If this is of concern then make a jig and use you hardness tester. Every blade and steel has a range. I have been making mine full flat and gringing after heat treat. As for grain problems. After talking to crucible ..
This is sprayed metal (simple term)
It has no grain direction and the way its cut should not be a factor. That was the quote from the metalurgist at crucible ..
I have cut them both ways. This material just
likes to warp. The 420v I have been using for
a few years... IT just warps I dont care what you do. Either direction or whatever...
Tom this is the best method I have found to date.
My next quest is diff temper on big blades to see if this helps make the 3v tougher. In the tests on folder blades it made a small difference..
Running Dog
We are talking apples and oranges here
The 1084 and 5160 are oil or water quench steels.
I would use salt bath for the high end and oil quench on the low temp. The salt heats the blades evenly. Also good grind practices are a must to stop warp. Then temper them in a temper plate to take out any other warpage.
Once again I leave a small flat for out to the tip . Then clamp them up in the fixture and temper them.
This is not is cure all. But it helps.
Then I grind after heat treat to remove the excess steel. In production I dont think this
is cost efftive. Most often the steel is heat treated first then ground to stop warpage.
This is just for us po guys..
I want to give credit here for the quench plates .. Tom Clark .. national metal treating
Rj Martin
Kit Carson
Ed shott
I didnt have much problem with 420v.. The 3v is a challendge because of the fast quench time required..
I feel that this steel can be Heavy oil quenched also. Crucible said yes but with caution.. cracking problams. This is something I deal with for the brine quench steels also. So i figure it can be done with process control. I have done a few small blades. It worked. I will do a big blade and let you know what happends..
For the 3v this will give a semi diff temper
:]
------------------
Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 07-07-2000).]