3x Flint + 3x Bowie - EDC knives for sell

KornalskiKnives

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Black dots are ABS little pieces - saw after pisture session ;)
Surface is a BRUT after rolling, heat treatment and sandblasting/glassblasting process.
I did NOT cut it with magnetic surface grinder ;))

So was like that and last like that ;)

PRODUCT DETAILS

Blade: Bohler K720 - AISI O2 Tool Steel 3.9 mm, 60 HRC
Coating / blade finish: Stonewashed after fine sandblasting
Handle: G10
Sheath: ABS with BigTekLok mount
Overall length: 225 mm (8.86 inches)
Blade length: 100 mm (3.94 inches)
Blade width: 32 mm (1.26 inches)

Asking: 140 USD with all costs

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Knife: BowieEDC
Steel: Bohler K720 AISI O2 Tool Steel
Thickness of 4,2; Hardness: ~59 HRC
Handle: G10 Tiger and G10 Black with red linners sandblasted
Blade 125 mm (~ 5"); OVERAL: 255 mm (~10"); width: 30 mm
Sheath: 3 mm black ABS with big teklok

Asking: 140 USD with all costs

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BWK720_4.jpg

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How would K720 compare to say 1095?

OK.

In my 10 years of making knives I used many different kind of steels and heat treated many more for knifemakers.
Also 1095 and 1065.
Those two are CARBON steels. When using carobon steels you should hardened them with WATER to have the best results.
It causes two things - can crush during process and makes steel glassy.
When hardend in OIL you cannot reach more than 58 HRC.

So do not used them in my knives.

I chose simple low alloy steels instead.
They are steels hardening in OIL.

80CrV2 or K720 - O1/O2 tool steel.
Used them and still use.
80CrV2 is made for wood cutting tools and O1/O2 tool steel is usung even for metal cutting.
Both are quite though and keep working edge long enough to be happpy with the blade.
And you can sharpen them in the wood with your ceramic mug or even the road stone.
I prefere 80CrV2 but there is problem with buying thickness more than 3 mm and for allrounders it is to little IMO.
When my K720 stock is gone will go into Uddeholm SLEIPNER steel.


I cannot compare them with my experience due I did not have two knives with those steels in the same time.
When looking into the charts I can say O2 should be more tough, more wear and corrosion resistant than 1095.
When well hardened you can reach 64 with 1095 and for O2 is only 59-60 - some users like higher hardness.
IMO wear resistance and toughenss is much more important than hardness but still - cannot convince everyone.

Hope helped a little ;)
 
OK.

In my 10 years of making knives I used many different kind of steels and heat treated many more for knifemakers.
Also 1095 and 1065.
Those two are CARBON steels. When using carobon steels you should hardened them with WATER to have the best results.
It causes two things - can crush during process and makes steel glassy.
When hardend in OIL you cannot reach more than 58 HRC.

So do not used them in my knives.

I chose simple low alloy steels instead.
They are steels hardening in OIL.

80CrV2 or K720 - O1/O2 tool steel.
Used them and still use.
80CrV2 is made for wood cutting tools and O1/O2 tool steel is usung even for metal cutting.
Both are quite though and keep working edge long enough to be happpy with the blade.
And you can sharpen them in the wood with your ceramic mug or even the road stone.
I prefere 80CrV2 but there is problem with buying thickness more than 3 mm and for allrounders it is to little IMO.
When my K720 stock is gone will go into Uddeholm SLEIPNER steel.


I cannot compare them with my experience due I did not have two knives with those steels in the same time.
When looking into the charts I can say O2 should be more tough, more wear and corrosion resistant than 1095.
When well hardened you can reach 64 with 1095 and for O2 is only 59-60 - some users like higher hardness.
IMO wear resistance and toughenss is much more important than hardness but still - cannot convince everyone.

Hope helped a little ;)
Thanks! Very thorough response my friend. Those bowies do look awesome!
 
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