4“ Hunter template suggestions.

[ACLakey]

I know knife and handle shape is very subjective but I'd like some input. I have been struggling with handle size and shape mostly and really like Fiddleback Forge esk designs. I'm going to make some 4" hunters and seem to be settling in on handle around 4.5" long. With the shape in these pictures I can comfortably grip the knife in a standard grip, thumb on spine and reverse grip.

I'm thinking about using 3/16 stock and 80crv2 steel. Any input or ideas would be appreciated.

 

[john april]

looks fine to me !

 

[Frank Niro]

Here is my description of a straight knife I sold for years much like the one you have made. The blade would be 4" and the handle 4 7/8". The blade would be say 3/16" as wide as the one you have there with a finger cut out where the handle started. The steel could be CPM154 or AEB-L. but to upgrade it some, I would go to Elmax or M390. I would pretty much stay with none stabilized wood and or the diamond wood, G-10 and micarta. This should give you a knife that will do the chores on animals of all sizes.
Frank

 

[ACLakey]

Thank you for the input, it is appreciated.

 

[Matt Rochester]

Looks like a great design. I would make sure the front of the scales and the plunge line lines up. Other then that it looks good.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I agree with Matt. Make the plunge angle to match the angle of the front of the scales. Keep the top of the plunge where it is, and move the edge part of it back. The plunge would end right before the end of the edge that way.

I would also rather see the spine curve down to the tip than the sudden angle you have profiled. Besides being much easier to make, it is more sleek and elegant.

Also, you might want to move the front rivet back a tiny amount to match the distance from the end to be the same as the rear rivet. Position the center one half way between those.

 

[ACLakey]

Thanks for the input!

 

[ACLakey]

I've taken everyone's advice and made some templates today. I am going to make a couple of each and see how it turns out. I also practiced grinding bevels today, getting better every time.

I was having a really difficult time getting my grind and plunge lines consistent with the little Craftsman 2x42 POS. I tried to make a few adjustments and ended up breaking the aluminum frame. [emoji35].... I need an upgrade.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

I've taken everyone's advice and made some templates today. I am going to make a couple of each and see how it turns out. I also practiced grinding bevels today, getting better every time.

I was having a really difficult time getting my grind and plunge lines consistent with the little Craftsman 2x42 POS. I tried to make a few adjustments and ended up breaking the aluminum frame. [emoji35].... I need an upgrade.

I feel your pain with the crapsman. Your doin good though. Have you gotten a ceramic platen? Does wonders

 

[ACLakey]

I have a buddy that does tile work, he cut me a pile of ceramic platens....I have a life time supply and they do indeed help.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The wooden template sitting by itself is the nicest one of the lot. Sleek and with a good handle.

 

[ACLakey]

Thanks for the reply

 

[ACLakey]

I opened up CAD today and made some refinements. Please post your thoughts.

3.25" Simple handle

3.5" Hunter

5" Camp / Bushcraft

 

[kuraki]

I like the camp knife. I personally have little desire for fixed blades under 4" and I like narrower blades for field dressing, say 1" wide but that's just me.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

I'm gonna vote for the 3.5 in hunter

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Agreed, 3.5" hunter is the best. I would delete the lanyard hole, as it is really useless on a small hunter.

 

[ACLakey]

Thank you, I'm going to make one more template, probably a smaller hunter with a narrower profile.

 

[ACLakey]

I did some more tinkering, adjusting and cutting out templates. These feel pretty darned good, as soon as I can get more steel I'll grind them out and go from there.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Your third drawing is the best. Simple rivets will be far easier and look great. The first drawing is good, but the lanyard hole is a bit close to the edge. Number two would be better with two centerline rivets and the large lanyard hole. The eight small rivets are a bit too close to the edge. When the handle is shaped to a curve, there won't be much wood holding them.

 

[ACLakey]

Thanks for the reply, I'll make those refinements.