4.1 in 3v or cpm 20cv?

XtianAus

Gold Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
3,081
So as soon as 4.1's become available again i plan to snag a 4.1
But i am having trouble deciding between the two steels.
I have a 6 in 3V on order but i do like the idea of a knife that I can not worry about "babying" so to speak.

So the cpm 20cv is not as tough as 3v but what would it take to break 20cv? What can you do with 3v that you cannot with 20cv?

Will 20cv be tougher than well treated 1095 such as esee's?

Any experience or notes would be appreciative so that I can decide what to go with BEFORE they are back in stock :D
 
In my experience 3v doesn't need any special care. I'm in AZ so it isn't really humid here, but I have never used oil on any of my 3v blades
 
My 5.1 in 20cv is terrific knife. I have used it and have not had to touch it up yet. I would take 20cv over ESEE carbon steel any day of the week and twice on Saturday.
 
Ahhh that is very well reassuring!! ^
But i did completely forget that the 4.1's were included in the new HT. Oh man shit just got so much more difficult now
 
I'm torn because I've seen people (like black scout) do all the typical stuff (battonning, etc) using a 5.1 in 20CV and it handled it no problem. And the 4.1 seems more like a utility knife than one i'm going to do anything rough with, so I might prefer the 20CV for it, but i also want Nathan's new HT!! But, I also want a 7/7 so it will have the new HT also so maybe i'll do my 4.1 in 20CV and a 7/7 in 3V. Definitely a lot to consider!
 
I've only had spotting underneath the scales where sweat has accumulated during use. 3v is some amazing stuff and it's going to be amazing with new finish and heat treat.
I really want to try out the 20cv though. I just don't have any real experience with it. Yet.
 
Don't over think it. Buy the one you prefer when it becomes available. If Hinderer uses 20cv, it's gotta be good.
 
Everyone seems to be steering towards the 3V in that past thread^
Plus with the new HT it is hard to avoid.

Besides keeping the blade oiled do you guys do anything else to prevent rusting?
 
Everyone seems to be steering towards the 3V in that past thread^
Plus with the new HT it is hard to avoid.

Besides keeping the blade oiled do you guys do anything else to prevent rusting?

I live in the midwest part of the US so there's no salt water or jungle like humidity and I don't use my knives for processing animals, so with all that said, my old tumble finished 3v is VERY easy to take care of. Even easier than 1095. I can get away without even oiling mine, but I do clean it up if it gets dirt or plant goo on it.
 
I live in the Pacific Northwest. I have a 5.1 in 3v. I was expecting to have to take more time caring for it than knives I have in Infi or SR-101. But I haven't found that to be the case! I've had it out in the rain a few times, cut lots of wet plants and wood with no staining issues at all. I usually give it a good swipe on the pants before sheathing. I wanted to see what it would take so the last time I went out I did the pant swipe as normal but did NOT wash, dry and oil the blade when I got home. Yes, it was difficult but it's for the greater good, dammit! I left plant remnants and wood stains on it for 3-ish days to see how it would turn out.

I washed it with soap and a toothbrush (my wife's, not mine). At first there was a little staining but it seemed to be just stains and not rust. A Mr Clean Magic Eraser took it off.

So the 3v is surprisingly more stain resistant Than I was expecting. Based on what I'd read I thought it was going to be way more involved and I'd have to be more diligent. Not so far in my experiences.

So there you go...
 
A lot of the alloys that 3V is compared to have more carbon in them.
That lower carbon content seems to contribute to the usually good corrosion resistance.
I think that the chromium in the alloy is more available to prevent corrosion since there is less carbon to form carbides.
The current Survive heat treating process has been shown to give improved corrosion resistance as well.
 
Yup...I've not had any issues with 3V either.
I'm in So. Illinois & we get a Lotta humidity...85-90% humidity is common.
As mentioned above, wipe knife off before putting in sheath.
No big deal.
3V works well for me.
No experience with 20cv tho.
 
I live in the Pacific Northwest. I have a 5.1 in 3v. I was expecting to have to take more time caring for it than knives I have in Infi or SR-101. But I haven't found that to be the case! I've had it out in the rain a few times, cut lots of wet plants and wood with no staining issues at all. I usually give it a good swipe on the pants before sheathing. I wanted to see what it would take so the last time I went out I did the pant swipe as normal but did NOT wash, dry and oil the blade when I got home. Yes, it was difficult but it's for the greater good, dammit! I left plant remnants and wood stains on it for 3-ish days to see how it would turn out.

I washed it with soap and a toothbrush (my wife's, not mine). At first there was a little staining but it seemed to be just stains and not rust. A Mr Clean Magic Eraser took it off.

So the 3v is surprisingly more stain resistant Than I was expecting. Based on what I'd read I thought it was going to be way more involved and I'd have to be more diligent. Not so far in my experiences.

So there you go...
Hilarious!!!!!


3v is indeed a super steel!
 
Humidity in FL is certainly a factor but I don't believe you can go wrong with either, pitting seems to have been the major culprit with 3v but don't believe I've heard of anyone owning a SK experience that issue.
 
Back
Top