4-4 1/2" Fixed Blade for Survival/Camping/Packing

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soapboxpreacher

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Apr 3, 2010
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I popped this up at another forum to get some input on it as well. so please excuse me if I am overlapping forums...I dont think I am because it is not posted on knifeforum.com. Here's my question because someone else sparked my interest here on the F1.

I have my A1 and RC5 (which I like just not finding myself using much for size and weight reasons) the A1 seems to be able to baton and perform everything but chopping as well as the RC5 without all the RC5 limitation do to blade width and weight...not to mention the blade style and cut, seems to limit it to finer bush craft tasks. I probable will send the RC5 back. Not that I dislike the RC5, I just believe the S1 far better suited for me and my needs. I feel like the RC5 would be the last knife I would grab on my camping trips. Ok and I admit it...I've got a man crush on the Fallknivens. There design really seem to fit my use and needs well! Even though I love the RAT warranty and the sheath is quite nice! I dont need a pry bar and for fine work, carving, whittling it is terrible, just too big and heavy! So the RC5 isnt for me..at least I dont thing so! Anyway on to my post question I want to get a 4"er (maybe slightly bigger) of some sort. Something beefer than my Mora. A light duty filler. I was considering the F1 but the finger guard is very small so I also am entertaining the Cold Steel Master Hunter in San Mai III...or whatever the hell CS is call the steel this week. The CS is nearly 1/2 the cost of the F1!!! It is longer and might just fit the bill better! The CS has a better finger guard and sheath as well! So my collection will or could consist of either F1, S1, A1 or an CS Master Hunter, S1, and A1. I want to carve with the 4"er, probably not baton or chop...unless I am really in a situation where it is my last resort...so maybe those uses as well god forbid! Let me know what you guys think!

Oh and any good recommendation on gloves...my freakin HANDS!! Let me know. Thanks guys!
 
The Cold Steel Master Hunter is the one to get. :thumbup:
 
I am with you jim with only really one reservations. The San Mai III or VG-1 is a? Been digging around the forums and noticed it being compared to AUS6, 8 and even 10. I have heard it is a 3-layer steel with 420 involved...OUCH! It will be my whittler blade for finer carving such as spoon crafting, tinder, light carry during packing/hiking. But it will see probably more wood work than anything..just light type woodworking. It is too small to reasonably do batonning or chopping...unless really small. I just wonder how edge retention is to more wood applications with the Master Hunter. I love the length, blade cut, handle design and sheath. It is longer than the F1 better finger guard and sheath as well...plus cheaper but if it cant take the light duty fine carving and crafting it might not be a good choice. But man the design is so ideal. A really great overall design...as long as the steel doesn't ruin its potential. This is where I am on the fence about it. It might just be easier to do the S1, 1/2" long in the blade and overall and only a few oz more. But the blade is a different cut and grind. I really want both!
 
soapboxpreacher said:
I am with you jim with only really one reservations. The San Mai III or VG-1 is a? Been digging around the forums and noticed it being compared to AUS6, 8 and even 10. I have heard it is a 3-layer steel with 420 involved...OUCH! It will be my whittler blade for finer carving such as spoon crafting, tinder, light carry during packing/hiking. But it will see probably more wood work than anything..just light type woodworking. It is too small to reasonably do batonning or chopping...unless really small. I just wonder how edge retention is to more wood applications with the Master Hunter. I love the length, blade cut, handle design and sheath. It is longer than the F1 better finger guard and sheath as well...plus cheaper but if it cant take the light duty fine carving and crafting it might not be a good choice. But man the design is so ideal. A really great overall design...as long as the steel doesn't ruin its potential. This is where I am on the fence about it. It might just be easier to do the S1, 1/2" long in the blade and overall and only a few oz more. But the blade is a different cut and grind. I really want both!
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Well those people don't know what the heck they are talking about..... They are just parroting what they read from someone else who doesn't know what they are talking about... (Dog piling)

True is VG-1 is very close to VG-10 and 440C in performance. ;)

Yes, the San Mai III steel has 420 as the outside layers to make it tougher etc to impacts, it does have VG-1 at the core though. The older San Mai III was AUS-8 at the core. Cold Steels AUS8 is no joke either, they really know what they are doing with it.

Pretty much the only way you are going to really know is to buy one because listening to a bunch of people who never owned one or any CS product for that matter that will be bashing CS isn't going to do you any good.
 
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Ive gone through a few knives for hiking, camping, light backpacking...

I just got an F1, and it's the knife I will be keeping. The finger guard is pretty much non existent, yes, but as long as you are being careful when trying to shank the bear or whatever else you require the finger guard for stabbing...I think you'll be ok.

In my opinion, out of any other knife I have (I have seen pretty much every popular 4" fixed blade that people reference on this forum, except bark river) I have to say I think the F1 is the perfect balance. It's by all accounts durable, its very thick, light, and if you get the zytel sheath, very compact. It is not as light as my Izula, but it makes a negligible difference once its in the pack.

I struggled with this very subject for months, and the F1 is what I stuck with. I've looked at the cold steel knives, and I have to say, I think Fallkniven feels like it is in a different league.


-Freq
 
banana-clip said:
RC4 might be a good knife for what your looking for.
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honestly, i dont really care for the handle on the RAT...I am not a huge fan of Micarta...just my personal preference. Also the RAT blades are typically taller...which makes from my experience a blade harder to do finer tasks...once again whittling and so on...cutting a bowl out of a spoon is a little harder. The tip is more blunt then pointed. So I was looking for a narrow (not talking about blade thickness) profile blade. And as much as I like the sheath on the RATs they are big! It's a love/hate in that department. But honestly I have not ruled out the RC4 I am trying to find some dimension of the blade. Height is my only issue. But I love the RAT blades. The handle is not a deal breaker...it is just not my first pick neither is the sheath just not my first pick. The Steel...warranty (the best)...quality...ok now we are talking. So if anyone has some dimensions of the blades please post them. If the RC4 isnt to tall compared to the F1, S1 or Master Hunter...I would consider it very heavily. For I do really like the finger guard and the notch out blade section...this makes moving the knife very precise possibly offsetting the blunt tip on higher height.
 
Have you checked out the Makers section? There are some really talented guys here who could make just what you're looking for or might even have something available. Sometimes for less money than a factory knife of similar size.

Frank
 
My support goes to the F1, only because I use one and know the quality and capability of the knife.

I can't comment on how it compares with the others because I have no experience with them.

Kevin
 
SilverFoxKnows said:
Have you checked out the Makers section? There are some really talented guys here who could make just what you're looking for or might even have something available. Sometimes for less money than a factory knife of similar size.

Frank
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+1

I've picked up a couple of really nice blades there.
 
I would suggest something by Koyote or Stomper (JK knives). Both have their own subforums and Koyote is known for his thinner blades that still stand up to great abuse and Stomper makes some equally solid blades and his bushcrafter with a scandi grind might do exactly what you want.
 
I just checked out a JK Handmade Scout Jr....LOVE!!! O man is that sweet. Thumb serrations on the top and a nice finger guard. Might have to do it!! Impressed however I would be fearful of using a custom. But the wheels are turning.

One side note I noticed not much love nor hate for that matters of the Cold Steel Master Hunter.
 
soapboxpreacher said:
I just checked out a JK Handmade Scout Jr....LOVE!!! O man is that sweet. Thumb serrations on the top and a nice finger guard. Might have to do it!! Impressed however I would be fearful of using a custom. But the wheels are turning.
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Most knife makers make thier knives to be used. It's only our own perceptions that keep us from using them.
 
Flashpoint said:
Most knife makers make thier knives to be used. It's only our own perceptions that keep us from using them.
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My knives are meant to be used, I don`t make "safe queens." I sent a test blank to one of my "crazier" customers awhile ago, with the instructions being to " try and break it." Note, I don`t recommend doing this to a knife, but it`s nice to know it will take it.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601044

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604563
 
I have both the CS MH and FK F1. I like them both a lot. I like the CS better for critters, which is what it is designed for. For more general work, the F1 is more comfortable for me, especially wood working. For me (and you might be different), if I have a lot of cutting to do, a wider blade such as the MH isn't as comfortable as a narrower blade. Notice I'm talking width, from spine to edge, not thickness. I have an elbow injury that gets aggravated a lot by woodwork with wide blades - I'll take a stockman over either for wood working, but of the 2, the F1 is more comfortable for that sort of thing. It also has a thicker tip which will resist damage better when wood working.
 
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